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hi
I have a 71 Volvo 142E with 4 speed manual. It has single weber carburetor plus I put in an earlier model B18 motor into it that I must of came out of a 122 (so not the B20) I am having problems getting the primary and secondary jets just right to the carburetor - what would be anyone's suggestion for best the primary and secondary gas and air jets to it?
Also if I step on the gas hard, or let off gas abruptly, and especially if I am to compression-start the car, there is a huge loud CLUNK coming from the rear end - like somebody hit something with a big hammer type thud sound...not sure if this could maybe be the rear axle itself, and maybe this is the sound of worn out differential or loose gears or loose axle bearing or gears to differential??
I am guessing right now the connecting arms with rubber components holding the rear axle in place have worn out and it "seems like" the whole rear axle assembly gets lurched around and it is the sound of the rear axle smashing itself onto the body of car - this is my guess (so the "big hammer sound is the rear axle itself being the hammer) ....but maybe it is the differential or axles or maybe the shock towers I read somewhere it might be....anyways when I have had a differential go out in cars before it makes that high pitch whiney sound then eventually goes out but this is a very loud clunk and wonder if anyone has experienced something like this to happen....
One more question, is it possible to put in rear axle from an early 240 into this car? Probably not but just wondering...there seems to be always 4 or 5 Volvo 240s at pick-a-part wrecking yard nearby where you pull parts out yourself for really cheap and already I stuffed nice blue cloth front and rear seats that cost only 85 bucks for everything into this car and they look really nice and are very comfortable - also managed to replace the ripped out horrible headliner (previously held in place by magnets) with a one-piece solid headliner from a 240 and it looks super nice like it was from factory - this only cost 20 bucks from the wrecking yard...I can probably get a good rear axle from a 240 for 75 to 100 bucks so that is why I am asking about that....not many 140's around town but thousands of old 240s here in Seattle area....
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I've been here for more than a decade & I have never seen anyone post what jets they ended up using on their stock B18B, B20B or B20E. You would have thought IPD would have published them since they sold the idiotic combo of a copied Volvo DCD manifold with a seriously undersized DGV carb, bot no. Best I can suggest is you tell us what emulsion tubes you have and I can tell you some stock jetting for other 2L cars factory fitted with the same carb.
PCV: I would pipe them into the air cleaner, because where the gasses enter the manifold means only the inner cylinders get the crankcase gasses, especially the one closest to the metering nipple.
The carb: The DFV/DGV Weber was designed for absolute maximum economy and minimum emmisions, it is not a performance piece, hence Volvo sold DCD's instead. DFV/DGV is good for 100HP. If you have a reasonable engine, a 350 Holley flows enough. For a mildly good engine, a 500 is the way to go and both are easy to jet needing the power valve chanels restricted and just a pair of main jets + a tweak of the pump cam.
The rear: The 140 rear suspension is superior to 240, they are just torque limited. 1967-69 model cars have a 20 mm shorter wheelbase via shorter torque rods and a shorter location for the diff housing bolts. Perfect for a race car or 2 people maximum + it gives the best rear wheel clearence. I like the short wheelbase parts, 1974 style springs and shock absorber mounting.
For sure drop the prop shaft and grease it properly, then feel them. The front UJ fails because it doesn't move enough, the rear UJ fails because it moves through big angles. I found a rear shaft that comes from an early 240 which has a small UJ in the middle and the big UJ at the diff. You need to switch diff flanges to make that work. Fitting the big shaft from gearbox to diff does not fit because the earlier car has a smaller prop shaft tunnel.
Generally, the 4 main bushes need replacing between 10000 and 100000 miles depending on how hard you flog it.
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69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual
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wow thanks for that info on the rear of 140s. totally forgot about the early 140 rear differences. seems like the front end stayed the same over the years (besides brake companies and 164 stuff)
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68' 144s B20B M40
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The front ends are different too. The B18 cars had smaller tie rod and drag link ends, different steering and idler arms, a smaller top ball joint and solid bushes in the lower A-arm. Valiant parts fit in place of the tie rods on a B18 car, which show how oversized the later model is! The steering parts are under tensile forces when driving forwards in a 140, but are suffering compression in a Valiant.
B20 cars got those parts enlarged + the inner bushes of the lower A-arms got a technology upgrade, they got bigger and the rubber got shifted to the working side leaving a gap in the other side. This makes the front end more supple and improves the brakes a lot! I would use poly in the top, but NOT in the bottom.
Springs: I'm 95% sure there was only one spring in the front of all 140's, a triple tempered piece that never sags. In the rear there are are double pig-tailed springs for years that go from '67 to '72 model cars with a different rating for 145's, a HD spring for 142-144's and a HD spring for 145's, so 4 different springs minimum. In the later cars with 240 style rear springs, '74-'75 142-144 single pig-tail in standard and HD springs + 145 standard and HD springs, so 4 more. So 8 springs at least + I'm not sure what is used in the '73 model and the early 240's have different spring ratings that go straight in.
No matter what car, I use stock front springs and bushes with stiffend lower A-arms, a few minor crossmember mods, Koni-D and a 22mm sway bar on a late B20 car frontend.
In the rear I use B18 trailing arms and torque rods for a 20 mm shorter wheelbase, improved weight distribution, stock bushes, Koni-D shocks, NO swaybar and standard '74 rear springs shimmed up to level. The only time I used a rear swaybar was when I locked the diff shut and then I only used a 16mm bar from a 240. This is with 205/60 medium grip tyres on my home made 15x7 Volvo rims. If you go to sticky low profile rubber on a bigger rim, and mostly use it at the track, I would use stiffer springs and Bilstiens, but I would not change the bars.
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69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual
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Hi Paul
thanks for all the advice and info - what do you mean by "4 main bushes"?
Do you mean bushings; the rubber things that hold the rear suspension tight that the big bolts go through?
This could be exactly what is wrong with the rear suspension as it seems to lurch forward and backward quite a bit (maybe 3 inches of slop just guessing)
So under hard acceleration, or sloppy shifting and clutch work, and especially if you try and compression start it down a hill when you let out clutch it sounds like someone smacked the bottom rear of the car as hard as they can with a 4ft hammer.....so will guess the bushings are out and the rear axle is not halfway solid in place like it should be....this car has been flogged beyond belief - I let some teenage kids (14 year olds) visiting from Italy (nephew's friends) drive it around at an old farm for a couple days with no roads on it, and they would smash the suspension on big ruts and bumps all over the place plus they didn't know how to work a clutch either (have new one in it now) but this car still keeps on going...
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My bad, I mean't 8 main bushes, but the two that wear out alot are the big "butterfly" bushes that are in the front of the trailing arms, hard to get them to last long when driving hard with them fitted BUT they are vital to traction under acceration and braking. The 140 mounts the torque rods in front of the diff so they work both ways. When accelerating, the butterfly bush lets the diff rotate upwards which a small amount and allows the diff to apply force to the torque rods which makes the car squat and you get the best traction possible in a live axle rear suspension. When braking, the diff rotates the other way, pulls on the torque rods, and gives it more brake power at the rear. Works great, but you have to change butterfly bushes often.
140 vs 240 rear: The 240 rear suspension is tougher and last longer, but lacks traction.
I would put your car on flat ground, stick it first, release the hand brake, stick your face under for a look and see where the excess movement is.
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69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual
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There is a jet kit that comes with a selection of main, air corrector and idle jets and I usually have 1 in stock. They are around $60.00. Does your Weber have an idle shut off solenoid?
It does sound like you have a rear suspension problem, but it could be the driveshaft support bushing.
None of the 240 rear axles will bolt in with out major modifications.
However some of the early 240 rear ends do share internal components like the ring and pinion, carrier housing, spider gears, ETC.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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Hi Planetman
My carb does not have an idle shut off solenoid....not sure the exact model of carb but and don't have the car with me right now - will get it back in middle of December....
It has manual choke and two accelerator pump assemblies - one of which is disconnected and I plugged the air holes...(maybe this is problem too?) there are idle jets both sides of carb and some air jets visible from top, then your standard primary and secondary jets inside the bowl...
I am interested in your jet kit - I am just doing trial and error right now what works right but there is always some points in the rev range where it hesitates or flattens out.
What do you think is the best timing for this B18 motor with single weber?? I have it way advanced around 27 degrees to run the best but that seems way too advanced...I switched out distributor to one with vacuum advance and it worked much better but still is not a nice revving motor and I think the carb jets are just not perfect plus who knows what else it could be.
If you need the model number for my carb, let me know I am willing to pay 60 bucks for a carb jet kit if it is going to be right one...
Are there some weber carb models that you think are the best? Maybe old ford pinto carb or some sort of carb from the 70s would be nice to swap into it?
I have a lot of fiat 124 carbs, but their accelerator linkages are backwards and would be a pain to fit onto this car....
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Before you spend anything on the Weber, make sure the auxiliary venturi for the primary circuit is not loose.
The auxiliary venturi is made of harder aluminum than the throttle body and over time it wears on the throttle body. Fuel flows through the auxiliary venturi and when it is loose the fuel dribbles down the side of the throat of the carburetor instead of down the center.
Timing at idle is not as critical as knowing the total advance.
Your total advance should not exceed 38°.
FYI, 27° at idle is too high. It should be less than 18°
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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Hi Eric
thanks for the good ideas what could be wrong, and for sure I have the timing too advanced...knowing it should not exceed 38 degrees at full advance is super helpful.
Is the auxilary venturi what goes down the middle of carb throat, and when you blip accelerator pump you see the gas squirt out of it?
Its held on by screw at top and is easly taken out....or is it something else like the inner throat surface or something else again?
thanks again
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There is an auxiliary venturi in the middle of the throat of each barrel and is part number 83 in the exploded view in the link below. To remove the auxiliary venturi you must remove the top cover and it slides out of grooves on each side of the throat.
The squirting fuel is coming from the accelerator pump jet which is part number 81 in the exploded view.
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/32-36_dgev_parts_breakdown.htm
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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Although your rear end problem as described is pretty severe, I'd be checking the rear U/J first and then the prop centre bearing mount.
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thanks Derek - I have brand new center propeller shaft mount plus new transmission mount as well... the rear universal joint "seems OK" too just looking at it and feeling if there is any slop to it - but when I get the car back I will drop that propeller shaft and start from there working my way backwards....this loud thud is so loud it is ridiculous....I have just lent out my 142 to couple ple of Norwegian college students I play soccer (football) with who are going to universtiy here in Seattle for a semester - just to let them have some fun with it and to get some miles on it - they can only go so fast with it and the noises get scary if you don't shift very smooth so they wont be racing around in this Slo-vo...
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Between the Italians and the Norwegians your rear suspension bushes are probably well past their best, to put it mildly. Think you need to get it up in the air safely, a proper lift is best, so that you can check out all of the bushes with a pry bar.
As you say, prop U/J's can only be checked properly with then disconnected. They need to be moved through their complete arcs.
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hi Derek
OK thanks when I get car back in December maybe still in one piece or two I will check out the rubber bushes/bushings holding the rear axle in place this is most probably the reason I bet they are all 44 years old...
thanks
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