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I've been here for more than a decade & I have never seen anyone post what jets they ended up using on their stock B18B, B20B or B20E. You would have thought IPD would have published them since they sold the idiotic combo of a copied Volvo DCD manifold with a seriously undersized DGV carb, bot no. Best I can suggest is you tell us what emulsion tubes you have and I can tell you some stock jetting for other 2L cars factory fitted with the same carb.
PCV: I would pipe them into the air cleaner, because where the gasses enter the manifold means only the inner cylinders get the crankcase gasses, especially the one closest to the metering nipple.
The carb: The DFV/DGV Weber was designed for absolute maximum economy and minimum emmisions, it is not a performance piece, hence Volvo sold DCD's instead. DFV/DGV is good for 100HP. If you have a reasonable engine, a 350 Holley flows enough. For a mildly good engine, a 500 is the way to go and both are easy to jet needing the power valve chanels restricted and just a pair of main jets + a tweak of the pump cam.
The rear: The 140 rear suspension is superior to 240, they are just torque limited. 1967-69 model cars have a 20 mm shorter wheelbase via shorter torque rods and a shorter location for the diff housing bolts. Perfect for a race car or 2 people maximum + it gives the best rear wheel clearence. I like the short wheelbase parts, 1974 style springs and shock absorber mounting.
For sure drop the prop shaft and grease it properly, then feel them. The front UJ fails because it doesn't move enough, the rear UJ fails because it moves through big angles. I found a rear shaft that comes from an early 240 which has a small UJ in the middle and the big UJ at the diff. You need to switch diff flanges to make that work. Fitting the big shaft from gearbox to diff does not fit because the earlier car has a smaller prop shaft tunnel.
Generally, the 4 main bushes need replacing between 10000 and 100000 miles depending on how hard you flog it.
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69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual
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