I haven't tried it, nor measured anything, with a 140 member transplant into a 122 in mind. My prior reply was more about fitting the 140 piece into a PV, which requires a fair bit of cutting and welding.

Though the 140 has a wider track than the 122, you'll want to determine whether or not the shock towers are or aren't closer together in the new crossmember than on the original. If they are, you'll likely be notching the frame members on the car, and those are pretty important structural pieces.

You'll also want to determine what the swap does to the ride height; and consider changing springs and/or making further mods to the frame to accommodate whatever that change might be.

Next, you'll find that the tie rod ends don't match; you can make your own with some fancy rose joint/heim joint pieces; or you can convert the rest of the steering pars to match the 140 bits. I guess the other thing you could do would be to cut your tie rods in half and weld the 140 outboard ends onto the 122 inboard ends. Be sure they're precise, or your alignment will end up funny.

If you swap the steering box and idler arm bits into the car, you'll need to be sure that either 1) the mounting surfaces for those pieces are the same distance apart as they were on the 140; or you'll be modifying the drag link.

You may or may not be able to retain the ackerman angle that the design originally offered. And this may or may not be important to you.

It's not a bad idea, but it's pretty involved and I'm not sure what the benefit would be. I did the swap into a 444, but that was largely because I was upgrading the rear axle to a 140 piece, and I wanted the track width and bolt patterns to match.

If you're interested, you can read about a PV conversion here:

http://swedishrelics.blogspot.com/2015/02/the-front-crossmember.html

Good luck!

Cameron
Rose City