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I have 1991 VOLVO 240. Car starts very good every time but stalls after running only 1 second. It happened since yesterday. I do not know what to look. Cleaned today throttle body, IAC, new air filter, new air filter, cleaned AMM.
Thanks for the help.
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Try starting it without the AMM plugged in.
Check for OBD codes.
Test fuel pressure.
Spin fuse #6.
Sniff for fumes.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"The future ain't what it used to be."
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car starts and stops immediately.
Do you think fuel filter clogged or faulty main fuel pump or faulty fuel pump in tank are the real culprit. Because I never changed these three in last 23 years. car has 150,000 miles. I do not have equipment to measure fuel pressure.
you made this site best for solving any problems.
Thanks a lot.
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Hello,
Well from what you write, you have gotten your dollars worth out of those components!
If you have to change them out, they owe you nothing!
I think you owe it to yourself to be prepared for a total failure sometime.
If not now, the when is coming soon to a theater near you and you, will have a front row seat!
Dan or Pagda sent you a link, to show you that you do have a way to read codes on the car.
It does not require a code reader for you to purchase. It's right there near the back of the drivers side fender. A little back box just like in the link.
Did you look for it and go out to the web site?
It should have some "recent" codes for something, over those many years, unless you found a way to keep the battery a live for 23 years too.
Reading the codes will give you a clue to want might be wrong. It does not print out or speak out, it just blinks a little red LED. You have to, at least, read that part!
I know the link is long in printed information. It will seem daunting, for a first timer who may be attempting and expecting some instant repair answers.
It is made only to give out clues and if you are not familiar with the cars systems, it will be worthless to you. It can help others willing to help you.
We need lots of clues! I personally think, the best you have given us is the 23 years you have been riding for free!
Does the CEL light come on when you turn the key to position 2 for the instrument bulbs test? After 23 years, it might have burned out?
With that tid-bit, I will say you have some serious ignition issues and need to do an overhauling tune up! It's the very first thing, that any mechcanic, is going to make sure that it's in good shape!
You have not mentioned or brought us up to speed with any other "clues" to what condition the car is in.
You would not believe how many brand new Air filters I see on cars, that have been turned into the junkyards! I have a shelf full!
In lots of cases, I don't even get charged the $2.00 for them because, I buy more pricey and important things!
I get good fuel pumps complete with new filters as a unit, compliments of the unknowning, in their many ways, from the previous owners!
23 years on original fuel filters might be a record!
Especially, if the car went across the country and has mileage matching it's age. I'm impressed but don't ask what else I think!
I gave you hint, I'm another person just waiting for a car like yours, nice parts! The insurance companies do the, other stealing, for us in a much bigger way, Crush!
Get back to us with a log book of all types of information and maybe we can stir through it and find a clue in there somewhere.
You have some catching up to do!
Cluelessness is not a good status of mind to be in! Especially for others, you or me!
(:-(
Phil
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"I do not have equipment to measure fuel pressure."
Of course you don't...
But you can still get an idea whether the fuel delivery system is providing the pressure needed to run the motor if you can turn the pumps on without running the engine.
Jumper connect fuse 6 and fuse 4 (left side of each) to make the pumps run. With the key in your pocket, use a pair of pliers to feel the fuel being returned to the tank from the fuel pressure regulator by quickly squeezing the hose at the exit of it. If the fuel is returning to the tank, there's an assumption the regulator is maintaining the pressure needed to run the car. Of course this is not a "measurement" but a quick way to rule out total lack of fuel pressure that might result from a dead pump circuit.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
A group of chess enthusiasts checked into a hotel and were standing in the lobby discussing their recent tournament victories. After about an hour, the manager came out of the office and asked them to disperse "But why," they asked, as they moved off. "Because", he said, "I can't stand chess-nuts boasting in an open foyer."
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I checked the OBD code this morning. the OBD code is 1-1-1 by inserting cable in slot number 2. this little box has 6 slots (1 2 3 5 6 7)
Please help me what to look next.
Thanks a lot.
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Thanks for help,
The OBD code is 1-1-1 when cable is inserted in slot 6.
Thanks again
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Just a note on the 111 readings.
If you spun the #6 fuse as I suggested but did it before checking the OBD codes which I also suggested, the codes are reset to 111 as soon as fuse 6 lost electrical connection. So, anything registering a useful code will need some drive time to re-register.
To continue further, you could take some electrical voltage readings on the AMM connector with engine off but key on. Take them by rolling the boot back off of the socket and poking the probe of your voltmeter at the backside of the wire terminals and list by wire color.
You say you're able to keep the motor running by opening the throttle some? When is the last time the throttle body has had its crud cleaned out? Coke build-up in the throttle can hold the TPS open when it gets thick enough.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
What do you call a fish with no eyes? A fsh.
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I cleaned throttle body, IAC, new air filter, cleaned AMM on August 25,2016.
the OBD codes at sock fuse 2 and 6 are 1-1-1. 1-1-1. I did not rotate the fuse # 6. today. and started the car couple of times.
What could be wrong? Crank sensor?
Thanks
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Ohhh. Holding out on us, eh?
To continue further, you could take some electrical voltage readings on the AMM connector with engine off but key on. Take them by rolling the boot back off of the socket and poking the probe of your voltmeter at the backside of the wire terminals and list by wire color.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"Doc, I can't stop singing 'The Green, Green Grass of Home.'" "That sounds like Tom Jones Syndrome." "Is it common?" Well, "It's Not Unusual."
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Thanks a lot Art.
This morning I disconnected the battery, than changed spark plugs, distributor cap, distributor rotor, than connected battery, started the engine. engine starts and dies immediately. Than I took the OBD code by inserting cable into slot #2, the first time the code was 1-2-1. But when I took again it came 1-1-1.
I will buy the volt meter to check voltage.
Thanks again
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121 is related to the AMM, you should check the contacts in the AMM connecter to make sure one of them has not pushed back and not making good contact with the AMM.
Dan
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I disconnected the battery, cleaned the all 6 AMM contacts and female connector
contacts. The connecter has only 5 contacts and after rolling back the boot I found only 5 colored wires. 1,2,3,4,5 only. than I connected the battery and started the engine. same problem still exists. starts and than dies immediately.
Than I took OBD code by inserting cable in slot #2. Its 1-1-1.
Tomorrow I will take the voltage across each wire on the connector.
Thanks
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The AMM can suffer from constant overheat if you have:
- the preheater hose connected between the exhaust manifold heat shield plate and the bottom of the air filter box (under the fan shroud)
- not replaced the inside the air filter box flap valve springy thermostat every so often (how often?). The flap valve inside the air filter box, because of the springy thermostat fails in time, gets stuck on "let in the hot air all the time" which will fry the AMM in a summer or two or less. (The LH-3.1 AMM may be somewhat more robust, though will fail, too. An expensive item to replace, the AMM.)
Though you'll test you AMM as others are directing you to do so with your new multimeter.
Images shows the silver preheat hose, though the image is of the older exhaust shield.
Flushing, New York can get really hot during heat waves. Coupled with hot air from under the exhaust manifold heat shield, the AMM becomes a well fried crispy of an AMM.
See this yoo bube toob video shows the action of the cold air / hot air control air intake of the inside-the-air-filter-box flapper valve:
https://youtu.be/FGWXXyXD2ME
I don't know the emissions inspection requirements for NY-state, though I read it is stricter than most states. CA-state requires a visual inspection of emissions controls. You cannot remove that silver preheat hose to pass emissions (smog) inspection.
You can buy a replacement thermostat so your air filter flapper valve works.
Volvo OEM part number (PN) 1266826. Wahler (PN) 70411.
You can purchase replacement (prices without shipping - local parts store may be an option):
Tasca Volvo in Cranston, Rhode Island for 47$ (May or may not be made by Wahler, no image):
http://www.tascaparts.com/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=Volvo%201266826
FCP Euro in Groton, CT for 10$:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-air-box-thermostat-1266826
iPd USA in Portland, OR for 13$
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5451/103083-airbox-thermostat-valve
So, you replace the air filter box warm air control flapper valve thermostat every so often (how often?). Wahler is (or was) OEM, like your coolant thermostat, so you can purchase replacement. Wahler is now owned by Borg-Warner in Germany. Though where Whaler has this thermostat manufactured is unknown. I dunno how long these new part would last.
MO, CO, WA, and some other states do not perform an emission inspection. So, I removed the silver accordion hose and saved it. When in CA-state, I plugged the arm air inlet and mechanically forced the flap valve to remain on cold air open. Though in MO, on my 1992, I removed the flapper valve assembly and stored it, and the engine draws air through both air inlet ports on the filter box.
I'd replaced this part a few times when I needed to on my 240s. Though replacements do fail, I found.
Questions? Hope that helps.
MacDuffed.
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
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Thanks.
My top priority is to run the car. car starts and dies immediately.
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Sorry to assume you already had a multimeter in your possession, as well as some experience using one.
As an owner of 25-year-old cars using computerized spark and electronic fuel injection, I depend on such tools. They help me to avoid swapping parts to see what fixes things, but in your case, I believe you need to swap the AMM next. Eventually you will get familiar with the OBD if you keep the car. Each time you remove power to it (as in disconnect battery) you remove all memory from the electronic systems and OBD will read 111.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Down in the depths of our souls, we all yearn for a job where rubber stamps are used.
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Thanks a lot.
You are the real Volvo expert. on AMM plug, I checked the voltage, on each 5 wires.
The orange wire has no voltage but all other 4 wires have voltage. It means inside the connection is broken with orange wire.
On E bay, I am getting after market new AMM for around $45 and used one of Bosch brand for $32. What brand I should buy.
Thanks again.
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If you are getting no voltage at the orange wire with key on, the problem is not your AMM. That power comes from the fuel injection relay above your passenger's foot. It depends on power through fuse 6 in the '91.
This may be some help:
http://cleanflametrap.com/emfuse.html
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Broken corn chips often resemble Minnesota.
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its good news that AMM is not bad. What to check next?
Fuel pump relay going bad or fuse #6.
Thanks
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Hi there,
Yes you are correct, you have the best man on the Brickboard working with you on the car.
What he has said is that, the plug in and play parts are not always a plug in and play problem.
These cars have become like a finer wine.
They have moved, any of their issues, into the realm of subtle problems with a bouquet! (:)
A loose connection, frayed wire, corrosion or just possible a bad part that can be repaired on the cheap!
The wine, as 240 Volvos, looks the similair but the ingredients inside change.
As a connoisseur of fine wines, as Art is, he can tell you little details of where to place your voltmeter.
A connoisseur can "advise" you to smell for a bouquet. He can not know what you smelt, only just ask, did you get that? Communication is vital or you miss the experiences.
Nothing better than finally saying, "Ah Ha! Here it is! I found that stinker!"
He has provided you a diagram that shows what has to be on when the engine cranks and stays running.
This instructional diagram is after the wine is in the glass. The key is on and the engine was cranked.
He is saying the power to continue running has to start at fuse number six. He want you to swirl the glass and see if the wine is in there. Very basic step but this is checking is an advanced step because the wine is already in the glass!
This is what I think you car is doing. This was the first step you are missing and you need to disregard. It's just confusing you.
The ECU runs the pumps for one second because you turned the key on. This pressurizes the fuel rail to the injectors. That it. It shuts off. Nothing is working until you turn the key off again and reset the sequence.
When you crank the engine it fires and runs that fuel out and stops because something else is not turning on to continue the engine running.
This second step, on the diagram is demonstration of where to find some air in the top of the glass with some vapors.
This is where Art wants you to start sniffing. Fuse #6.
Follow the "red"wine stain trail on the diagram or schematic.
This may look daunting but walk your fingers down the line and learn the paths (wire colors) and names of what is connected there.
"N" is the point in question he has referred too! It's under the passenger side dash panel on the back wall. A small rectangular box hanging in a socket.
This as you see on the schematic is a junction point.
This is where you are headed once you do his first step and studied the schematic.
Learn the wire colors as you will be using a voltmeter to see electricity in them. It's the only way you can spot that stuff!
Next, will come direction of when it's suppose to be there and when it won't be!
These are called modes, stages but mostly sequences of operation.
Art knows what, when and where!
He and others will be there, with expertise, possibly some pictures and wonderful links.
You will have to "Do" your home work! It's your car, not ours and that makes you the MAN or WOMAN, ultimately.
Phil
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There's no good news your AMM is not bad. Only news that your measurement did not confirm it.
The usual problem when there is no voltage on the orange wire with key on is a poor connection in the circuit through fuse 6. You'll do well to double check everything you do to trace this and be sure you are understanding what the new meter is telling you. Practice. Repeat each check, because the slightest touch with bad connections can temporarily mend them.
Fixing these cars isn't so much about replacing old worn out mechanical parts as it once was, before electricity got put to such extensive use in them. Less about your wrench collection and more about your multimeter and wiring diagrams.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Expert: An "ex" is a has-been and a "spurt" is a little drip under pressure.
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Hi Art,
Thanks a lot.
I cleaned the fuse #6 contacts and charged the battery. The readings are as follows:
Orange: 11.69 volt
White: 0.06 volt
White/red: 1.25 volt
Green/yellow: 0.15 volt
Brown : 0.35 volt
On the basis of these readings, can you conclude AMM is bad?
Thanks
Tweet
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I don't know how you got there, but your readings look better now. But there's still no conclusion, although my next step would be to swap in a known good AMM. I realize you don't have one. Sorry. Can't say for sure, and that's why we have always recommended having a known good spare for this very reason. They cost so much less when you aren't desperate.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"Keep in mind that random processes can fluctuate in such a way as to mimic a signal when no signal exists." --Ransom Stephens
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Can I buy Bosch brand used one on E bay for $30. they say if did not work than they will send another one free of charge without returning first one.
Thank You.
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A Bosch AMM with a guarantee for $30? That sounds like a great deal. Pick your own part junkyard wants $45 and no returns. Or at least they did back when I shopped for them.
Whether it solves or not, you know by now the value of keeping a tested spare, so buy 2. Do some searching on this board using the terms AMM and voltage.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
A dyslexic man walks into a bra.
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Today I replaced my old AMM with new one. I started the car, cranks good but no start. Than I replaced AMM again with old one, still cranks good but no start.
I started the car after 8 days. 8 days back, it starts good than stops immediately.
Thanks
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My advice? Double check the reading you took before, especially the one at the AMM's orange wire. I ask this because you never clearly identified the reason for it being missing power at one time and then having power the next time.
Do that one simple thing, and then you can go back to the part-swapping advice. An intermittent connection will clear the codes.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
“Never underestimate the difficulty of changing false beliefs by facts.” --- Henry Rosovsky
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HI there,
Here we are again.
Man it's been a bunch of posts but I have seen more!
Sorry to hear about your AMM "Adventure" not working out but at least you have a spare that is always nice to have around.
I guess you are back to doing the basics of the triangle. Air, fuel, heat, of which, makes things go round and round or up in smoke, depending on needs.
That is, If your are in your man cave or your car. (:-)
You said you went over the ignition system with some new goodies.
How did that turn out?
Do you have spark jumping from the coil wire to a stud on the left front strut the whole time you are cranking the engine over?
I put it up there so I can see it from the drivers seat.
I lay it about one-quarter inch away from the stud with a weight on top of the wire holding it there for me.
On a reasonable dim day, under the hood, you should see a white and reddish to blue spark popping across over to the stud.
To check a plug wire, cap or rotor, you would clamp the plug tight to the engine block someplace and let it be pretty darn dark to see that from inside the car.
Have you ever rolled the crankshaft up to zero degrees and checked the Top Mark of the cam sprocket to be aligned.
At the same time look to have the rotor button, in the distributor, pointing under the terminal under the number one wire?
The timing belt may have moved the basic start point mechanically.
Now after many times of the engine rocking through to a shut down, it might be so far out, it has quit all together.
It appears the car has gone farther down the slippery slope.
If you find all this stuff close enough and working, then there is, only one thing left to do and that's intervene with a surprise party with a middle man in this whole process.
That's the fuel system relay. It commonly fails within itself or gets left hiding against a wall like a stinky little flower that nobody thought about grabbing it by its neck and squeezing!
You will have to physically man-handed him into working some of the connections for you. You need to turn on something, that is not getting invited to play with your party of parts!
Open the relay and tie down the contacts down with something not conductive. I used a shoestring once because I was stranded once downtown and didn't like the other alternative solution the shoes were offering. (:-)
Recently, more or less a fellow boarder used some match sticks to get his car running and now he is trying to understand why it ran.
Now I have to say that worried me, if they still had fire making chemicals on the ends! (:-(
Anyway when you go to crank you should already hear the pumps running.
The injectors should have their power.
So, all we need is the CPS to kick the beach ball down the trail. If the previous things are right the engine should start and run. The pumps will continue to hum even after you turn off the key and the engine dies.
That is why you cannot leave it like this as it draws a lot of power.
This will tell you that there is a problem, with the relay, wiring or a system component, is not turning on that relay.
It could be a faulty ignition switch as rare as they do fail. That is where I left last time as this thing was dropping out or turning off things.
Resulting in Resetting the first stage of the ECU for priming. You runs its little bit of fuel then that something drops the ball.
The OBD light is not going to tell you much with codes, if its flickering on or off like a candle.
In some cases, it has to be driven about ten miles to read simple emissions codes.
I would set that "silly thing" over in the bushes. Or in my brain, it's a hay stack, if I were you!
If this does not start the car, then you missed something previously, or we are about to take a trip to visit the Voo-Doo Land of the Black boxes! The AMM is not one of them, as you rule that out already.
This cars bottom line is, it should be running in limp mode, if nothing else.
I hope some others can fill in any gaps relevant to getting the "triangle of fire" fixed here.
I'm sure I glossed by or over something.
Phil
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Hi Art,
Thanks a lot.
I cleaned the fuse #6 contacts and charged the battery. The readings are as follows:
Orange: 8.74 volt
White: once it was 8.73volt but now 0.05volt
White/red: 1.24volt
Green/yellow: once it was 1.24 volt now 0.03 volt
Brown : 0.03 volt
In the end the voltage across battery was 8.75 in the beginning 13.6 while key was in on position.
What brand AMM I should buy.
Thanks
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Buy Bosch only, new or known good used.
Dan
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Thank You.
I used jumper wire between fuse 4 and 6. I did exactly described in your picture. The return rubber fuel tube at the exit of fuel pressure regulator swelled.
After that I removed this jumper wire and started the car. The car runs longer if I press the gas pedal. as soon as I remove foot from gas pedal, stalls immediately.
Thanks again
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Tried to start after removing AMM plug. It started and stopped immediately. it did not run even for a second. After connecting AMM plug again, it starts and runs for about now 5 seconds, Check engine light came, engine shakes very badly while running, than stalls.
I have no device to check codes.
Please guide me what to look for next.
Thanks a lot.
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From the FAQ's.
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm
Dan
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Have you checked OBD codes?
This sounds like a failed AMM, try disconnecting the AMM (key off) if it starts and idles fine you know what is wrong.
Dan
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