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So that spinning sound when I turn the key-I guess it's the starter? Lights don't dim when I turn key.Tried hammering on it but no luck.Been waiting for that shoe to drop because it's the only part on the car that was still original. I've read all the posts about how tough it is to get that top bolt off.Is it that horrible? Bolts are soaking in liquid wrench.Cold out.Drizzling. No garage. Getting faint-hearted. $300 to have it done.What else could it be?
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posted by
someone claiming to be cdcfrawford
on
Thu Dec 28 21:24 CST 2017 [ RELATED]
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Personally, unless I were on a really tight budget, I would bite the bullet and pay the garage $300 to replace the starter. I think that is a reasonable price given the cost of a new (hopefully Bosch) starter and the fact that labor tends to run $75/hr and up in most parts of the country. Look at it this way-$300 is not even one monthly payment on the average priced new car.
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Find the diagram here as an URL to the PDF file.
http://www.v8volvo.se/mekartips/volvo/Filer%20740/Volvo%20740%201992%20Mitchell.pdf
And you've read the FAQ:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalStarting.htm
Before considering start motor removal, perform fault diagnosis to identify cause. As Onkel directs.
As aforementioned, may not require starter motor replacement.
Any symptoms before starter failure? Symptoms such as weak engagement of the starter motor or requiring several attempts to start or more gear automatic transmission gear lever action as the neutral safety switch has wholly mis-aligned or wholly failed.
As you aforemention, "because my gearshift has always been a little wonky-it has only started in neutral for years." So switch alignment, corrosion, or something else may has caused neutral safety switch failure, preventing solenoid engagement (and start motor power up with drive pawl engament flywheel ring gear), and starter motor receiving power to engage the engine.
Do you carry a large and heavy keychain? That will shorten ignition switch lifetime. Use the lightest keychain in these Volvo ignition switches.
A wonky neutral safety switch for years. Take up the center console and temporarily bypass or repair or replace the switch.
The diagram shows a connector below the START INHIBIT SWITCH where the wire color changes from blue to blue / green stripe. Check for continuity to ensure connector has not failed / corroded.
With battery disconnected, verify electrical connection are not loose. Inspect cable. Including the POSITIVE TERMINAL (RIGHT REAR ENGINE COMPT) - though your dash lights come on.
Using your trusty multimeter.
I'm unsure the clearance if you find fault in the solenoid. It may be possible to remove the solenoid with the starter in place, if the starter motor spins yet the solenoid does not engage the starter motor. This was over two decades the last time I've worked with this, so I do not recall.
iPd Bosch Reman for 1992 Volvo 740 normally aspired with Regina / Rex is Bosch.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8230/106324-starter-motor-solenoid
$106.16 SALE!PER EACH + $45.00 Refundable Core Charge
iPd images:
Bosch SR437X
FCP Euro Images, also, so we can look at this thing:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-starter-motor-244-245-240-740-760-780-940-sr437x
$113.99 +$50.00 Core Charge
BOSCH SR437X
Brentwood and West County Volvo can get it to work, yet for 1000$?
List of Volvo shops on the brickboard SHOPS page.
https://www.brickboard.com/SHOPS/?cat_id=&state=MO&state=&action=PERFORM+SEARCH
If you need to use a repair service, near you in Affton.
Integrity Automotive
314.717.5556
9741 Gravois Road
Affton, MO 63123
Speak with Paul. A known used and tested starter motor (solenoid and motor) or a BOSCH reman, or an electrical shop reman, may be good should you need ot replace it.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
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Hello again KGV! Well, my 740 went 3 weeks without needing service. A new world record! Thanks for all your info.Of course I know Volvopauly! He's terrific! He put in a new ignition switch a few months before my engine gave out. And a new radiator, and fixed my brake lights. So, yeah,that's where I'll go if I can't do it myself.The Dealer prices were just a response to James' post a little earlier. I would never consider that. But my daughter is driving it and our deal is that she is responsible for upkeep,since I intended to sell this after it became road-worthy.So I thought I'd just try to get a little insight beforehand. It wouldn't surprise me if the starter is shot because it's original and after 243000 miles that's all you can expect. I'll let you know what happens but it looks like I'll be calling AAA. It's cold out!
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Hi Tinkerbelle,
I do not have experience with cold grease being so stiff as to prevent the solenoid from pulling the start motor pawl forward to engage the ring gear so it turn the engine to start.
I've read about it though here.
Yet before I would castigate the starter, considering your investment to date with cylinder head removal, service, and replacement, when you would rather be baking pies (I would too, pumpkin pies), you may want to ensure all causes that may prevent the starter from working, such as the neutral safety switch that is wonky for years, as it it only starts with the automatic transmission gear lever in the N-neutral position (requires a jiggle?), are diagnosed and resolved.
The starter motor is a robust wee beastie.
You can, as part of your troubleshooting, test the solenoid action and the starter motor. Though you are working with high current components connected to the battery. (You'd disable power to fuel injection & ignition by pulling the proper fuses / pulling the ignition wire to the distributor.)
You can do it, yet, perhaps address fault diagnosis of what may prevent the solenoid / starter motor assembly from working. Why the wiring diagram.
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalStarting.htm#StarterWillNotEngageStartInhibitorSwitch
One method to bypass the neutral safety switch:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=39526
Questions? Maybe a visit from Paul or your mechanically-inclined friend? I'm unsure.
Good old St. Louis City. The rich folks want 80 million from the city to pay for some stupid major league soccer stadium when no team will be there to play in it. Meanwhile, we have the Edward Jones dome, sitting idle, and the city, oop, citizen taxpayers, will still pay on it for some years, yet. I love the render of the MLS stadium some dorks want to build.
You see the Arches in the background center and the now-vacated dome to the left. Wot a heffelump with the woozles wanting to use public money.
Should have kept the Bidwells and the NFL Cardinals. Would have been cheaper.
Tishaura Jones for Mayor? At least she stood up to the BS keep the NFL Rams here by bilking St. Louis City for 800 million, by the rich folks, to build an NFL stadium. Eno Kranky (Kroenke).
The St. Louis American newspaper seems to want someone else, so I read yesterday, while imbibing beer, at the Schafly Brewery Bottleworks in Maplewood.
Go Seahawks. Ugly uniforms in their win over the Lost Angels Rams.
Hope that helps. Happy Friday.
Pumpkin Pie Boyeeeeeeeeee.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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Well, freezing rain, snow, ice,bone-chilling temps. Any hands-on activity will have to wait a bit. Meanwhile I'll review the FAQ again and any other info. Yep:corporate welfare.Don't forget Metrolink Expansion.We should not agree to any new sales taxes-ever.Let them figure it out and pay their own way like the rest of us have to. Unless it's a 1/8% sales tax to keep Mary's Volvo running.Ha!
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Well,1 year later and I have a running Volvo again! It was a bad starter bought from O'Reilly. I wasn't about to take that thing off again. So it went to my Volvo guy and he took care of it. I'm not proud.----------Tinkerbelle ('92 gold 740 wagon-maybe I'll see ya's on the road!)
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Bad starter, probably a victim of a poor to nonexistent rebuild!
Dan
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Thanks for your replies! You;re right Dan- the new starter from O'Reilly was no good,but under warranty,so my Tech replaced it with another one.2 days later I went to start it and it sounded like a chainsaw under my hood! Starter was smoking and I barely got it to turn off. So back to the Shop again.He ordered one from a different locale,hoping this batch would be better. So far ,so good. I originally decided to have my original Bosch rebuilt by a local shop(shoulda) but someone came along and offered to put a starter in right then so ,off to the auto parts store. Oh well,live and learn. Hey KGV! Hope all is well with you and thanks for the offer-we probably will meet up one of these days-my car is pretty hard to miss-not many of these on the road here.Or I could one day drive my 740 over and you can take a look. It always needs something,as you know.Though nothing urgent-I'd like to one day be able to get the bigger half of my back seat to fold down again,but right now I'm happy I can drive it.The awful shimmy at higher speeds is telling me I likely need 2 good tires,also,rotors and pads because i can feel them pulse when I step on the brakes.And so on... I have to laugh at myself because the other thing causing it to not start was that the timing belt had slipped off due to SOMEONE reversing the direction of the washers that tighten the crankshaft pulley, causing too much slack-oops.But I guess everything else was right. Also funny that I was able to replace the whole cylinder head,etc but ,the Starter proved too much for me! Just shows how tough that thing is. Well, time to get something done. Keep in touch! Tinkerbelle
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Drop the transmission cross member. Gives much more room for the upper starterbolt.
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That's a good tip. Thanks. I just don't think I'm gonna attempt that repair anymore.It's so much easier to write a check! I guess I'm getting soft. But I AM gonna tackle the brakes one day soon.
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Anyyounng mechaniccoud do this job in the yard.putting the car up on jackstands.find 1 for $50 & you buy a rebuilt starter,,,on craigslist in the services column or post a wanted ad!
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get the starter from FCP & its guaranteed to be replaced if it goes bad,,,
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Thank you everyone,but the starter is in and it runs great.Yes- the guarantee on the starter: If it doesn't work, just bring it back! haha.Same as the water pump!
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You must mean my comment about the water pump?. NO the water pump was replaced at timing belt change and it's fine. I was just commenting on the absurdity of the auto parts stores warranties:If it doesn't work, just bring it back for a new one- starter, water pump,blower motor,etc. Easy as exchanging a light bulb,right? The 3 things that need attention now are: front brakes,with rotors because they pulse when they are applied.,hefty oil leak at rear main seal, which means transmission has to be lowered(I'm not doing that), and the dreaded CEL-code 143-missing knock sensor signal. Replaced the knock sensor,that didn't do it. One day soon I will remove the spark plugs and make sure I gapped and torqued them correctly. But not today!
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Yet you are not losing coolant.
You wrote you would add coolant as when you encountered no heat in the passenger cabin, that was indicator for you to add coolant.
If coolant is so low in the water jacket, or engine cooling system, that you do not get passenger cabin heat when you turned the control to heat, loss of cylinder head gasket seal and engine damage would result. The engine temp gauge, if working, would be pegged to the max.
So, now, you are not losing coolant, yes? You were losing coolant before your cylinder head gasket replacement.
Oil loss at the rear main seal? And you cleaned your PCV flame trap, or checked that the system is not clogged?
I've encountered front timing covers and rear main bearing seal plate where the securing hardware was well under-torqued from the factory. Yet a few times only. Not like I take these part much anymore.
As for the socket 6 knock sensor 1-4-3, you can test the two pins in the new knock sensor connector for continuity. Could be defective, yet I'd guess exceptionally rare. Check for proper torque?
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
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Yep, everything is fine with the cooling system now.The oil leak at rear main seal is confirmed,and as for the knock sensor thing, I guess I'll just have to live with it for now-too cold to do anything about it.
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Must say I totally agree with your views on "lifetime warranty." This appears to be the method by which substandard remanufactured parts can avoid quality control when sold to DIY clientele of the chain auto parts stores. The rate of return is undoubtedly far below the failure rate, so it is a pretty good gamble financially for both the retailer and the rebuilder. I think I've heard some of the professionals refer to these rebuilds as "spray and pray." No pro could afford the comebacks, and no retailer could afford to cover the labor.
Had to remark on the "dreaded 143" as I've been going around with this on my grandson's '90 240. First, there is no method to check these parts with a multimeter. The knock sensor is a crystal microphone (ceramic piezo) placed in contact with the engine block to listen to detonation during the times when it should not be occurring.
I've replaced the one in my grandson's car, but he comes back with the CEL set again after a few months. We spent some time verifying the signal and the timing modification it performs, using an oscilloscope. It is definitely working, yet the code eventually returns. More to the point, the issue is at least 3 years old as I recall, and no driving complaints arise from it.
However, this car is not driven aggressively. I explained the "Italian tuneup" but I doubt he's dared this, as I suggested one day we'd try the old water torture method of cleaning the carbon from the combustion chambers. Hasn't happened yet, and just this Christmas, he mentioned the code has returned.
My point is, to me, it is not so dreaded, given it seems not to affect using the car, except you'd need to reset the code before taking it to your emission testing program, as I'm sure they won't pass you with a CEL set of any type. In the 240 of his year, he only needs to momentarily remove the blade fuse under the hood, to reset it. But it still is an unsolved mystery in at least one 1990 240.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
The male is a domestic animal which, if treated with firmness and kindness, can be trained to do most things. - Jilly Cooper
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Hiya Art! Yep, the 143. My Volvo guy said to just go ahead and drive it.So that's what I'll do.I'm afraid of the 'Italian Tune-up'. Maybe just some spirited drives on the highway should get rid of some of the deposits.That's a very sweet 240 in the picture and I'm glad it has a shelter to keep that ton of snow off that I know you guys in the Northeast got hit with.We have only an inch on the ground but temps are bone-chilling here. I reside in the same land as Kitty's Grey Volvo. Well, the O'Reilly starter is still working,but it does have the 'Lifetime Warranty' ! Yeah, it makes me laugh. But recently there was a recall on pacemakers!Wow-, now that's a repair even I wouldn't attempt!---------Tinkerbelle
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Did I miss something? He said it makes a spinning noise. Neutral safety switch won't let anything happen if it's bad. Starters not engaging the flywheel.
--
Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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Dropping the cross member is only four bolts.
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Uh -huh. And the starter is only 2. :]
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I agree Aleekat. I think the cold weather has hardened the grease on the bendix drive so it doesn't engage the flywheel.
Try this Tinkerbelle. Heat the starter motor with a light bulb or space heater close to it for several hours but be careful, don't use anything with a flame. After it is warm, try to start the engine. It may take several attempts to make it engage. If it starts, the starter is good, just a little sluggish from too much grease, oil and crud. After the engine is warm it should restart with no problem.
If this works, you may have to put a droplight under it at night. Tom
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Thank you Fredneck..never heard of that trick. It's too bad my 740 is parked on the street so I can't run an extension cord out there.However ,it is facing the sun so I'll open the hood and get some warm sunshine in there-if the clouds break up! Thanks everyone for your thoughts.
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Two things...
If the lights do not even dim, it is more likely the neutral safety switch. Try starting in neutral and wiggling the shifter a bit.
The starter upper bolt can be hard. It require a 6-point socket of the correct size about 36" of extensions with at least one wobble extension. If you do not use a battery or air impact, you will need the car high enough to apply a lot of leverage...either through a long cheater or a string leg.
My first took a while but was not terrible using hand tool. My second used a battery impact and could not have been easier...3 seconds on forward, 3 in reverse...rinse and repeat until it breaks loose.
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Thanks for the encouragement,Onkel Udo. If I can gather some more tools I might be able to pull this off.So to speak.I'm pretty sure it's the starter but I have to be sure.Don't want to do that job for nothing!
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I cannot emphasize enough the 6-point socket in the right size...unless your vehicle is particularly clean...you should almost have to pound the socket on.
FYI. I left out plug in impact wrenches but those are often very inexpensive and plenty effective for this application (and removing lug nuts, etc).
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Use 1/2" drive tools. The difficulty all depends on how over torqued the last person to install a starter was. Can be quick and easy or it can be a bear!
Dan
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Have you read the FAQ?
Is that a dealer's price? A new Volvo OEM starter?
If not, you should call a dealer and get an estimate. Maybe they can perform another repair instead of a new starter. I think that Volvo now gives a lifetime warranty on parts.
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A new Volvo Starter? $700. Dealer labor:$400? You didn't really mean that ,did you? I don't think it's the neutral safety switch either because my gearshift has always been a little wonky-it has only started in neutral for years.But just for fun I ran through all the gears and tried to start it. No dice. So I'm back to'am I brave enough to do this job?'Maybe if I borrow an impact wrench......
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