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Hi popdaddy,
Yep, an Uncle Art Benstein sage and wise area.
So, I see you say you replaced the fan motor on your 1992 240 in 2013 here:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1552792/220/240/260/280/just_replaced_heater_motor.html
So, this is a new fan motor. And you did or did not replace the resistor pack? How about the fan switch?
A/C Switch is off?
Please see:
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/240%20Wiring%20Diagrams
So the fan that you replaced, does not run in any fan switch position, certainly when you turn the fan switch to the final clockwise position where the fan blows at max speed? (Unless this is a different 240 and you know not whether the fan motor was replaced.)
Specifically (unless your year is different):
Volvo 240 1992.pdf
So, see PDF page 23 of 23 for the fan switch connector pinout. With the switch and connected harness out as shown here in Uncle Art's image:
You unscrew the fan switch from the center console fascia you've tilted the top toward you and and have access to the fan switch connector.
Mind Art's caption:
You do not need to disassemble the center console further. You only want access to the fan switch and the fan switch connector so you can test the electrical outputs.
Mind the wire colors as how the pin label out on the switch and the connector can be confusing. (It is to me.) Also, should you get to this point, be mindful of bare wire connectors that may be powered that can short, and the vacuum lines disconnecting from the vent control switch. Don't pull on the wires. be gentle. At the current temps you are working in (Have a heated garage with radio and coffee maker, we hope?), the entire wire harness gets stiff and hard to work with. So, work with it gently.
You can plug the fan switch back in, turn the key back into the ignition to the key position that turns on the fan and radio, yet no need for the dash idiot lights.
Fan still does not turn as you switch the fan from off to Max? Have a spare switch to try?
You can then jumper the lead with a wire from Fuse #3 which is pin (or connector (white / black stripe) #6 to #4 (red wire to fan +VDC power). The fan should run full speed unless another fault is at cause.
If the fan does not turn and move air, you remove the key from the ignition, the issue could be faulty fan motor connection to ground.
If the motor stopped with the brushes positionally at some electrical continuity at the armature slip ring contact windings through the motor set your multimeter to continuity. Though we are disusing a new Siemens or the other manufacturer fan, yes? So the armature inside the fan motor should always present continuity when tested for it, unless a fault, like worn brushes, yet this is not a 1973 Volvo 164 we're working on.
One multimeter probe into the fan switch connector #4 red wire to the fan and the other at some place on the dash frame as ground. We hope you have at least a nine volt battery powered multimeter or better with a good battery in it. Does the multimeter indicate continuity? Yes, we hope a new hope. If no:
- wiring fault including fan motor connection to ground.
- internal fault in the fan
- Or other fault I can't imagine.
I've replaced a more than half dozen of these fan motors in 240 since the early 1980s. Including the testing of the switch and wire harness and the resistor pack on many more. No expert here. Last fan replace was in my 1990 in 2008 or so.
Though I have had to take part the switch that had seen quite some heat from routing current through it and was able to get the switch to work after a clean, some grease. Gotta be care of the springs, copper contacts, and the ball bearing(s).
I have images of testing the fan connector and jumping it. These may on a PowerMac 9600 50 miles away, unfortunately. Sorry I can post these to show you. Can't find examples using stupid google, either.
Questions?
Hope that helps you.
Staying Away from the Eggnog, Boyeee. Fail?
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