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Friend's 1991 740 still acting up - thoughts needed 700 1991


All,


I just got a message from a good friend of mine who has a 1991 NA 740, M47 5-speed, 141k miles. I posted about the issues his car has been having about a week ago. Here is his message, sent to me this morning.



From Jerry M.:


This problem has been occurring for a month now. It was a nuisance, but not something I couldn't live with. Yesterday, the problem escalated to a stall out when I came to a Stop sign. Then upon take-off, the engine would hesitate and sputter a little bit. Today...same thing. Now the engine wants to idle between 400 and 100 rpm's... or stall out completely.


The throttle body is clean. The idle air control motor is clean. The fuel pressure regulator completely failed in January 2015. I replaced it and engine ran well until May. In June 2015, I removed and cleaned the throttle body. Engine ran perfectly until January 2017. I removed and cleaned the Idle Air Control Motor because the engine wouldn't hold idle at its normal 850 rpm's. It was "hunting for idle" between 500 & 1500 rpm's. After I cleaned and reinstalled the motor, the engine ran perfectly until recently.


This is the best I can describe the problem.



Now we welcome your thoughts and advice.








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    Friend's 1991 740 still acting up - thoughts needed 700 1991

    How does the air cleaner look?

    I bought a used car that died on the highway because the air cleaner was so dirty.

    I also had the foam liner in the top of the air box in our '90 744 TI fail - that too caused problems when the foam granules clogged the air cleaner.








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      Friend's 1991 740 still acting up - thoughts needed 700 1991

      Old fuel filter? I had similar problems. I replaced the fuel pump relay and the radio suppressor relay ( located under the hood ) it works the injectors. I found this part to
      have a bad plug connection due to heat
      break down.








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    Friend's 1991 740 still acting up - thoughts needed 700 1991

    I would start by testing the coil and ignition wires for electrical flow. I've had a car stall out when coming to a stop. It that case it was bad wires. If the wires aren't Bougicord I suggest them as they are OEM. They work best and last the longest. Since your friend sounds very knowledgeable, I'm assuming the dizzy cap and rotor are fine but I'd still look at them too.

    Check condition of the CPS. Also check grounds and other electrical wires.

    Although I think it is most likely electrical, I'd still check the fuel system. ECU, pump and check relay okay?







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