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Hi Boxcar Man,
I'll bet the catalytic converter you have with flanges at both ends is a replacement. An exhaust shop merely spliced it a replacement. You have K-jet yes? The fuel to air ratio may be off, as well as the 02 sensor for the lambda sond fuel trim.
Please read here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_inspection_in_the_United_States
in NY-state, "Any vehicle 26 model years old or more does not require an emissions check of any sort ..."
So, at the least, you do not need a replacement catalytic converter, lest you want to (or you plan to relocate to a state that mandates these emissions controls, such as a catalytic converter. You could run a straight pipe from the header pipe out to the usual connection location for the front muffler input.
Yet I would suggest maintaining the connection between the mechanical exhaust support bracket that secure to the bell housing bolts on your passenger side exhaust at the end of the header pipe.
So, in NY-state, you must comply with the annual vehicle safety inspection. So, you need to replace the exhaust. If you can save money by not using a catalytic converter, a muffler shop can cobble up a section of pipe by welding on, to a straight pipe section, a matching three-bolt flange to the header pipe output. The weld needs to be of quality. Such a straight pip section would be bent so it aligns easily and is centered between the drive shaft tunnel on the passenger side.
Should you want to preserve the Lambda Sond oxygen sensor fuel trim feature on your K-Jet car (lest you converted to a carb), you would ask the exhaust shop to cut a hole and weld in a bung to receive the single-wire oxygen sensor. You would then have a shop test the emissions with the Lambda Sond disabled for CO and CO2 (I forget what it is) and then retest with the Lambda Sond on. You can also test the oxygen sensor with a digital mulitmeter to ensure it works well and the fuel to air ratio is within range so that the exhaust is within the range the Lambda Sond works (within). Such a straight pipe may want to have a larger diameter section so the oxygen sensor does not obstruct exhaust flow. Also, such a pipe may require it be of a heavier gauge (thicker wall) so it lasts as the exhaust shop may only be able to secure a weld to the pipe exterior only. (Depends on welding skill, I guess?)
Though if you do not know when the header pipe was replaced, and depending how long you've owned it, and if that support connection between the end of the header pipe and the bell housing bracket is not there, I may be inclined to replace the header pipe.
If it as rusty as you say, inspect the exhaust manifold to cylinder head gasket. Would you know if these ever replaced. Are these crumbly and rusty around the edge (to what degree, I cannot well describe). If bad-appearing, maybe consider a preemptive manifold to cylinder head gasket and stud replace, which can result in many problematic issues of varying difficulty.
You have other options such as a larger diameter exhaust from the header, if replaced, or from after header on back.
I guess Starla remains the quality bet for parts. There is Walker and Borla and Magnaflow you mention.
Other than FCP Euro (nearest you) and iPd, there is the sometimes-mentioned Rock Auto. You can find exhaust parts on eBay.
I'm sure other folks will have better solutions for you to research on to arrive at a solution that works for you and your exhaust shop, unless you will bolt it in yourself.
I guess that does it.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
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