The tailpipe just fell off my 81 245 non-turbo GLT. The exhaust needs to be replaced including the cat. The headpipe looks good. I'd like to buy everything from one source. IPD doesn't appear to have the cat. FCP has cats that are very pricey. (almost 400) E Euro parts has a Magnaflow cat for a little over 100 and the Starla exhaust kit. Problem is the cat on my car has flange couplings front and back as does the picture of the Magnaflow but the Starla kit doesn't show a flange on the pipe that connects to the cat.

They're trying to help me but now they're asking me to select what parts I need from a drawing and I've always bought entire kits in the past.

Have some cats had a flange fitting in the front only and others on both ends? Kind of confusing for something that should be real simple.

Hi Boxcar Man,

I'll bet the catalytic converter you have with flanges at both ends is a replacement. An exhaust shop merely spliced it a replacement. You have K-jet yes? The fuel to air ratio may be off, as well as the 02 sensor for the lambda sond fuel trim.

Please read here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_inspection_in_the_United_States

in NY-state, "Any vehicle 26 model years old or more does not require an emissions check of any sort ..."

So, at the least, you do not need a replacement catalytic converter, lest you want to (or you plan to relocate to a state that mandates these emissions controls, such as a catalytic converter. You could run a straight pipe from the header pipe out to the usual connection location for the front muffler input.

Yet I would suggest maintaining the connection between the mechanical exhaust support bracket that secure to the bell housing bolts on your passenger side exhaust at the end of the header pipe.

So, in NY-state, you must comply with the annual vehicle safety inspection. So, you need to replace the exhaust. If you can save money by not using a catalytic converter, a muffler shop can cobble up a section of pipe by welding on, to a straight pipe section, a matching three-bolt flange to the header pipe output. The weld needs to be of quality. Such a straight pip section would be bent so it aligns easily and is centered between the drive shaft tunnel on the passenger side.

Should you want to preserve the Lambda Sond oxygen sensor fuel trim feature on your K-Jet car (lest you converted to a carb), you would ask the exhaust shop to cut a hole and weld in a bung to receive the single-wire oxygen sensor. You would then have a shop test the emissions with the Lambda Sond disabled for CO and CO2 (I forget what it is) and then retest with the Lambda Sond on. You can also test the oxygen sensor with a digital mulitmeter to ensure it works well and the fuel to air ratio is within range so that the exhaust is within the range the Lambda Sond works (within). Such a straight pipe may want to have a larger diameter section so the oxygen sensor does not obstruct exhaust flow. Also, such a pipe may require it be of a heavier gauge (thicker wall) so it lasts as the exhaust shop may only be able to secure a weld to the pipe exterior only. (Depends on welding skill, I guess?)

Though if you do not know when the header pipe was replaced, and depending how long you've owned it, and if that support connection between the end of the header pipe and the bell housing bracket is not there, I may be inclined to replace the header pipe.

If it as rusty as you say, inspect the exhaust manifold to cylinder head gasket. Would you know if these ever replaced. Are these crumbly and rusty around the edge (to what degree, I cannot well describe). If bad-appearing, maybe consider a preemptive manifold to cylinder head gasket and stud replace, which can result in many problematic issues of varying difficulty.

You have other options such as a larger diameter exhaust from the header, if replaced, or from after header on back.

I guess Starla remains the quality bet for parts. There is Walker and Borla and Magnaflow you mention.

Other than FCP Euro (nearest you) and iPd, there is the sometimes-mentioned Rock Auto. You can find exhaust parts on eBay.

I'm sure other folks will have better solutions for you to research on to arrive at a solution that works for you and your exhaust shop, unless you will bolt it in yourself.

I guess that does it.

Questions?

Hope that helps.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.

KGV,
Thanks for your informational response. Checking Volvo diagrams I'm almost convinced that I have the original exhaust on this very clean 122K mile car. (however unlikely that may be so at least it LOOKS original) There is a pipe with a flange that connects to the rear of the cat and runs to the beginning of what is the typical 240 exhaust kit. Just looking at it again I could probably leave the cat in place as the pipe behind the cat is solid. It was the cat flange bolts that are bad so i was thinking of replacing everything. To your excellent point I'm not required to pass emissions in NY and therefore should probably delete the old rusty looking cat. Who knows what lurks inside also?

I have replaced these systems before (Starla, IPD sport etc.) but now I'm thinking I should enlist the help of a shop so I can have an intermediate straight pipe made up to replace the cat and pipe following it.
Will get under it this weekend and make sure the headpiece and bracket is worth keeping. There is a bung down low on the headpiece but the oxygen sensor I believe is up closer to the exhaust manifold. So.....maybe it is a replacement head pipe. Always hard to know when they start getting this old.

The flange at the end of the headpipe could also be eliminated too. (just lop it off and use a slip fit connection)

My 1980 244 is no doubt set up like yours. the head pipe has the O2 Sensor up near the top - so it's inside the engine bay. The CAT - which is original and still works - as flanges on either side. There is that short pipe with a flange that runs from the rear of the CAT and connects to the first muffler - stock Starla/Wagner kit from there back.

That pipe between the CAT and the first muffler is not part of the Starla Kit, you have to buy it somewhere else. or have it made if you can't find it. It only was used for a few years on B21 engines with that short CAT. Later models had CATs with rear pipes as part of the Unit. If your pipe is solid use it again.

I've replaced the entire run from the header pipe on back - using new gaskets and bolts at the front and rear flanges on the CAT

If the flanges on the CAT are not rusted away so that the new bolts won't hold, just keep the CAT you have. If you don't have to pass any inspection, just hollow out the cat, wire brush the outside to clean it up.

if you want to dump the CAT then have the shop make you a short pipe with flanges on both ends....this was an optional part in the Volvo parts catlogue - but not available in the US.

This site has two very large PDFs --- for download - For Further Reference.

http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/240-260/volvo-240-260-parts-catalog/

It was the cat with the flanges on both ends that threw me off. I realize now that the two previous cars I worked on had the later cat with the rear pipe attached.

I may be over-thinking this. The pipe behind the cat is very solid. The cat's bolts on the rear flange would have to be cut off if I were to replace it but that doesn't mean they won't hold it together if left alone. Like I stated earlier I'll take a hard look at the whole system this weekend and decide how far to go with it. (I consider the car a keeper but I can't tell you how many cars in my life I said that about)

Curious though if there are any gains in power or drivability by gutting or removing the cat. (or replacing it with new) There are no operational problems with the K-Jet system now.

There were "preCAT" 240s with B21 engines. My 75 which had a B20 with a K-Jet. The Header pipe ran all the way back to the 1st muffler.
There was also a long header pipe on these early B21s 76-77? I'm not sure what year US models started putting on CATs. Also the O2 sensor came on in 79??? I know that early K-Jets did not have the Lambda system.

If you download that Parts Catalog for the early models, I think the Exhaust section starts somewhere around page 360 or 370.

For "better" performance, the idea is to lose the 1st muffler. IPD used to sell a performance exhaust kit with just the rear muffler.

If your CAT works then just leave it. It's quite a chunk of steel. The only reason to hollow it out is if the honeycomb gets clogged or shatters.

Our first 240 was a '76--no cat--front pipe ran back to the muffler. I think '78 was the first year for a cat - at least here in NY--CA had them first earlier.
I may have a $ saving path for you--at least as far as the "kit" goes. I had a client who I guided through 2 years of 240 ownership but his mom recently gave him her fairly late model Civic. The 240 is now off the road. Before that he had purchased a "kit". When he changed to the Civic he called to see if I was interested in taking the kit off his hands. I had no need for it at the time. When I checked where you live I thought of Tim immediately (he's in Babylon Village). I called him - he still has it--wants $100. You can reach him at six-three-one-316-3892. He's a nice hardworking young fellow and I'm happy to help him out. -- Dave

single wire 02 sensor is in the manifold or the header pipe. Not the cat.

D'oh. Sorry to forget, again.

Yep, my 75 244 DL (M41) had no cat, K-Jet, and the header pipe all the way back to the front muffler. Forgets, again.

The 76 242 (M46) did have a cat as did both the 79s (242 & 245 [both M46]). I'm unsure, yet the 76 242 DL cat may have been a bolt in using a three bolt flange and gasket at both ends. Like yours, Boxcar Man. I can't recall both 1979 setups, yet one had the long pipe downstream and as part of the cat. The 79 wagon had a bolt in.

Sorry to forget. I've had these 1989+ 240s too long and forget, and miss, the 1970s 240s. I like the 1970s 240s.

Sorry to be confused, again.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.

A plan is coming together. Thanks Dave, I will call Tim tomorrow. I don't ever cheap out but I have an MGB I'm working on too and some things to take care of around the house.

If the headpipe is as good as I think it is I will keep that and maybe get some more time out of the cat and the pipe that follows it. If not, I will drop the whole system and have a local shop make a pipe with a flange on one end that is the length of the cat / pipe.

If the head pipe is weak the earlier long headpipe might just be the ticket. (assuming it has the port for the oxygen sensor)

Dave, did you buy the '68 144S Automatic in Huntington about 5-6 weeks ago? I was considering it but just too many projects.
Thanks guys!
-Dan

No--wasn't me. We may have to talk MG someday. I've owned a bunch - and the idea of building a V-8 out of my '74 MGBGT led to building a VolvOldsmobile 285 instead. I have a friend in Middle Island building a B230FT powered MGB with the MG gearbox adapted. Not sure what he'll call it. -- Dave

MO-Options

I have that CAT to 1st muffler pipe. Extra in the bin. If you want/need it.
Shipping cost may be the problem dollarwise. $40 plus shipping ..no biggie...Place your bid LOL...wait? is this Ebay?

I got a full long "pre CAT" pipe from those guys in Atlanta...cauz the '80 is in Historic PlateLand.

I'm in MD.

You may still be able to snag a full-on Front Header Pipe too

call them or email Maybe they have one around. The killer in $$$ is the shipping.

http://www.voluparts.com/

hi cb- this pre cat pipe is interesting.this was back when cats came out and were mandated by the smog laws. i think this was about 74. my 73 plymouth did not have one. in any event for a few years (only a few) after market car parts manufacturers started selling what was called test pipes which you could swap in and switch out the cat ostensibly to temporarily test the performance of the cat. too many folks left them in to get better mpg and performance, besides they were cheaper than cats and a boon to cheap bastids. soon the law got wise and stopped this. wondering if this item has made a comeback as a pre cat pipe for older cars(25 + years) in states that no longer emission check these old tanks. old fuds who are po and drive 92 and older volvos will no longer get soaked by dealers who want 1 g for a cat job. will the pc coppers be after such malefactors? thanks tons oldduke

Picked up the system from Tim this morning for less money because he was missing the tailpipe. Starla label over Walker. Over the axle which I normally would not bother with but that does mean it doesn't have the flattened section under the axle. Complete with all hardware and hangers. Good deal!

Cut everything off this afternoon and was going to keep the cat and its rear pipe but the end of the pipe was getting thin from rust so I cut the cat bolts and pulled both off. The rear flange of the cat was too much of a mess to think I could reuse it anyway so I either have to get a cat delete pipe made up with a front flange or plan two would be to get a later cat with the pipe attached. They are going for just over $100.

The head pipe is near perfect with solid brackets, preheat fittings and plenty 'O meat on the flange.

Since i have to pick up a tailpipe too should I stick with the S shaped pipe or go with the L shaped one that vendors like E Euro and FCP are offering?

OK--I have the answer sitting in my shed -- a delete pipe with fixed three bolt flanges on each end and the extension pipe to the front muffler attached. I'll be working in my driveway tomorrow installing new front calipers for my '80 245. I'm only a casual hockey fan but I'll definitely be home tonight to watch the Rangers (what else can a suffering Knicks fan do?). Call me six-three-one-968-8933. I live in Bay Shore--30 seconds south of Sunrise Hwy--exit 44 south 1/4 mile--right onto Redington-3rd house on right--you can't miss the Volvos :-) -- Dave

Dave,
Really don't need a cat on an 81 K-Jet car in NY.
Will call you in the AM.
-Dan

Met up with Dave today and picked up the "missing link" for my new exhaust. Because of him I am able to put together a complete system from the head-pipe back for a very low budget. Highlight of the day was to see the original "Volvo From Heck", Dave's well loved 144S. Dave, you're a Heck of a Volvo guy!
Thank you!!

My last post sounded like all is well but I still have a small issue. I can't get a good seal on the cat pipe to the first muffler. The "test pipe" & after pipe I got from Dave was a little larger so I had an exhaust shop swage the inlet to the first muffler just slightly. It fits perfectly but when set up under the car I can't get the pipe into the muffler fully. Maybe partly because of the over the axle system has less fore and aft adjustment or maybe just because I'm working with parts of different manufacturers and vintages. The alignment is also slightly askew.

I really dislike having something that's cobbled together but I think my muffler guy can make it work. I prefer not to have things welded up in case something needs to be replaced but maybe an extension sleeve could work.

The other alternative is to get a new, later cat with an integral cat pipe.
(the original cat pipe used with the double flanged cats is unavailable right now)

So to answer my own concerns I spent some time under the car tonight and the fit is better than I thought but a little leaky. There's a slight leak at the rear of the front muffler too so I'm bringing it to the shop on Saturday and getting both fittings sealed up. Will require more coercion than I can muster under ramps and stands and maybe some broader-surface clamps. Will move on to the much easier (and more satisfying) project of finishing up the MG's interior.

As mentioned in an earlier post.

I do have an unused conector pipe. The one that goes from the CAT to the 1st muffler.

Thanks CB I was considering that. The pipe is still available from the dealers for not much money. However, there are two. My car's last 6 digits are 324734. There is one pipe 1219291 which is up to 368309 and then 1306836 which is from 368310 on.

I just can't understand why there are different pipes as apparently all the exhaust kits from the cat pipe back are the same. This is frustrating me because the last kit I installed went without issues.

The pipe I got from Dave looks like it should work but it is not mandrel bent like the Starla pipes and has ripples from the bending. I'm just tired from this job. Actually strained some muscles trying to make this work.

Making matters worse is the leak at the back of the 1st muffler. Looks like the joint slipped and last night after loosening the clamp I couldn't draw them together. I REALLY hate paying someone to finish this, not because of the money but because it's simple work that I have never had this much difficulty with.

the one I've got is a Starla 1219291. It has 3 bends no ripples.
I got it from a local parts store. but i never used it.

I'll never use it - Shipping plus $15.00

When I got the thing apart the cat flanges were shot and there was a pin hole in the first pipe. I got a full length pipe from Voluparts shipped for $100.
I have Historic Plates on this 1980 244 so I don't need to go thru emissions. Plus I only drive it about 1K a year.

I'm registered here on the BB with email etc CeeBee1

CB, I certainly would rather buy that from you than spend money on having someone try and make what I have work. I'm afraid I'll end up with a welded mess.

Your posts don't have a "profile" selection. (someone claiming to be CB)

I'm registered as CeeBee1

long story password kerfuffel to my orig handle CB...some other longtimers have had the same prob. (reenter passwrd...already used try new)

c^^^^^^bokor@earthlink.net (lose the ^^^s)

Sent email.