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Stuck strut tube gland nut 200 1992

posted by  1990Volvo240 on  Mon Apr 24 16:27 CST 2017
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last visit: Fri Oct 3 13:18 CST 2014
[RELATED]

Hi everyone,

I have been wrestling with a stuck gland nut on the drivers side of our 92 245. I have done front supension work on my 90 244 before and I had trouble but not like this.

After the gland nut wouldnt budge with groove joint pliers, pipe wrenches, locking chain pliers, hammer and chisel, hammer and punch, air hammer/chisel, map gas heat, pb blaster, kroil, synth trans fluid/acetone penetrant mix and I am starting to come up empty on ideas.

I tried all the above when at first the strut was on the car then I removed it and worked on it with the help of a vise.

I also tried the two pipe wrench/body weight method outlined in the 700/900 faq.

At this point the nut is fairly mangled.

I am thinking about drilling down thru the top of the nut at a few areas and work at it with a grinder and/or air die grinder and maybe hammer and chisel. Anyone have any luck surgically removing one of these?

Thanks,

Travis








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    Stuck strut tube gland nut 200 1992

    posted by  someone claiming to be CB on  Mon Apr 24 16:43 CST 2017 [RELATED]

    Unpossible.
    Unless the PO crossthreaded it during the last strut change








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      Stuck strut tube gland nut 200 1992

      uid 46171's pic
      posted by  kittysgreyvolvo on  Mon Apr 24 20:57 CST 2017
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      last visit: Sat Oct 18 15:23 CST 2014
      [RELATED]

      Hi 1990Volvo240 and CB!

      And you already have the spring removed from the strut assembly? You would have the spring compressed, and use an impact wrench to loosen (if not already) or remove the strut mount from the top of the piston cartridge.

      I've used large channel locks and also a water pump (or chain) wrench with a large and long iron pipe on the end. Yet I loosen the gland nut with the front of the Volvo 240 slightly raised so the spring remains compressed, not adding to the force on the glad nut to strut tube thread friction (?).

      It could be held in by threadlocker, yet using heat would negate the threadlocker.

      You may have to take it to a quality and trusted auto machinist to have it removed. Like CB said, it could be cross-threaded by a prior attempt. It could also be a combo of super huge torque to secure it (at the factory or prior strut cartridge damper replacement), and rust such that as to have bonded the glad nut with the inside thread of the strut tube.

      I just hope it is not cross threaded. Could there be a chance the prior installer welded the gland nut in? Yet you would see that.

      Just get a quote for the work if using an auto machinist. Also, there may be a chance the strut tube thread could end up stripping out, requiring you get a replacement strut tube.

      Hope that helps you. Sorry for your problems.

      MacDuffed.
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