Having trouble with dash warning lights not coming on on start up so alternator light doesn't come on and excite the alt. The only warning lights coming on are abs, srs, oil lambda and seat belt. I took the dash out and reran all solder joints couldn't see any bad ones. Still have same problem could it be the ignition switch. What would all the other lights have in common are they ran from the ignition switch separate to the other lights that are coming on. car 92 960.

Alternator is off what a job just waiting for the second hand one to come in from the wreckers, some bad luck the plastic barb broke off the power steering pump, so have to chase up another pump. While i was at it i noticed a coolant leak behind the thermostat housing, what a job to get to the lower torque screw, had to take off the big aluminum bracket of the side of the engine that holds the A/c pump, I would hate to do this gasket by itself as everything has to come off to get to it.
My car is Right hand drive.

Nothing to do with your question, but very proud you still run a 92-960 a rare survivor. I promised to myself my 92-960 would not die by timing belt but it did anyway. the serpentine belt threaded and went inside the timing belt cover, wrapped around it and broke it.

Dear volvo426,

Hope you're well. Is the alternator belt in good order: present and properly tensioned? Do the lights - that do come on - glow brightly or are they dull/faint?

Solder joint failures usually are invisible to the unaided eye: a crack a few thousandths of an inch in width - or a layer of corrosion only a few molecules thick - can block current flow. Heating solder 'til it liquefies closes any micro-cracks. An aerosol corrosion-remover will ensure that the contacts on both sides of a connector are in good order.

Next, inpsect the instrument cluster ground which - if I guess correctly - is behind the doorside kick-panel in the driver's footwell. A treatment with an aerosol corrosion-remover takes little work. I'd separate the ground wires from the ground plate, before applying the corrosion-remover to the ground plate and to the ground wire connectors.

Finally, try jiggling the ignition key in the ignition switch. If that causes more lights to come on - or causes some lights to go out - then the ignition switch should be replaced.

Poat your findings, and we'll go from there.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Looks like a problem with the alternator took off the red excite wire and grounded it and all warning lights come on. I did have the warning lights all dimly light up and i revved the car harder and they went out.

Glad you seem to have found the fault.
However, I recommend resoldering ALL the joints on the back of the instrument cluster. Very high probability that the charging idiot light solder joint will fail, leading to a no charge situation.

It is not that hard with a good soldering iron (like a Hakko) and a steady hand.

Good how to here:

http://www.turbobricks.com/maint.php?content=art0031

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=137516

make sure all grounds are clean all the way around,

Dear volvo426,

Hope you're well. Before replacing the alternator, apply aerosol corrosion-remover to red wire terminal and to spade terminal on the alternator. Before applying corrosion-remover, detach the red wire terminal from the spade terminal and apply corrosion-remover to each unit. Do not rely on visual inspection as to corrosion's extent or impact.

If - after applying corrosion-remover to red wire's terminal and to alternator's spade terminal - there's no improvement, then the alternator is suspect. You might want to have it tested before seeking a replacement.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook