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Toe in specs

posted by  rstarkie on  Sat Jul 29 07:40 CST 2017
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:14 CST 2014
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I am still chasing the front end shimmy that I thought I might have resolved:

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1647031/740/760/780/front_end_shimmy.html

It is back and I continue to chase..

In checking (and double checking) the measurement difference from the front of the tires to the back of the tires (or as close as I can get without chassis interference) I have 3/16" toe in. That seems to be too much. My failing memory seems to recall a setting of 1/16"" but I am unsure. Specs on line are given in degrees and I don't know how to convert against my measurement.

When I replaced the tie rod end recently I counted threads and feel that I now have the same toe in as was present with the old tie rod end.

Using my "ball park" method what would be a reasonable amount of toe in?

Thanks,
Randy








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    Toe in specs

    posted by  Michael Yount on  Sat Jul 29 08:42 CST 2017
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    last visit: Thu Oct 23 20:03 CST 2014
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    Rubber or poly bushings in the front? 3/16" TOTAL or 3/16" each side?

    3/16" total (3/32" each side) is acceptable with rubber bushings. You could get by with less with poly bushings. 3/16" each side is a little more than I'd like with either type of bushing.

    However, your post references "feeling" like you have the same toe as before -- how are you actually measuring toe-in? There's no substitute for getting it on a machine or a toe set with jackstands, a carefully set parallel (to the rear wheels) string and careful measurements.

    I run stiffer poly bushings on my 240. I shoot for 1.5mm toe-in each side - which is a little less than 1/16". I'd go 2-3mm with rubber bushings.

    Having said all that - I wouldn't expect that shimmy would be a symptom of a mis-set toe. It might pull, exhibit odd turn-in traits or wear the tires funny. Shimmy usually means something that should be tight isn't -- ball joints, bushes, etc.








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      Toe in specs

      posted by  rstarkie on  Sat Jul 29 09:03 CST 2017
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      last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:14 CST 2014
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      Thanks for your response. I understand the need for accuracy but today I am just chasing possibilities.

      That 3/16" was total. Measuring across with a steel tape. I wasn't able to get the tape high enough on the back side because of chassis interference. Could be the total m Ishtar be more if I could.

      I am in the process of changing out the control arm bushings at the present time ( I've got a bolt seized up on the front of one).

      I may have a rotor that is warped that I hadn't noticed ( or disregarded) before. Last night applying the brakes seemed to be a contributing factor in the on set of some of the shimmy.

      Thanks again.
      Randy








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        Toe in specs

        posted by  jwalker on  Sat Jul 29 10:36 CST 2017
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        last visit: Fri Jun 6 08:39 CST 2014
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        I agree. You are on the right path.

        Will a bad bushing cause a shimmy? Don't know for sure as I have never had that happen to me.

        Never had a warped rotor that caused a shimmy without braking.

        Did you check the ball joints yet? I remember years ago on my 90 244 I had a shimmy that would worsen significantly when braking. It was the the ball joint.








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          Toe in specs

          posted by  rstarkie on  Sat Jul 29 12:14 CST 2017
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          last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:14 CST 2014
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          Thanks for responding.

          I had a set of poly control arm bushings on the shelf and they are now installed and I have adjusted the toe in just a tad so as to show (by my crude method) 1/8" total toe in.

          I also changed out the tires on the front, just in case..., but no joy, although the shimmy did not return until I tried to slow down. So it was acting more like a warped rotor.

          I disassembled the front brake calipers. The slide pins were moving as they should, but I found the pads on the driver's side were not releasing enough to allow the wheel to turn freely when jacked up. I cleaned up the contact points on the pads and the carriers and reassembled everything and went for a drive.

          As soon as I touched the brakes I got that shimmy that seemed like a warped rotor. As I prepared to remove the rotors I once again found the driver's side tire reluctant to spin freely. The rotor on that side was definitely hotter than the other. I opened the bleeder and used a large set of adjustable pliers to push the piston in and found no resistance to moving freely. The pads did not want to move in the carrier so I removed them and ground down the ends of the pads a very small amount.

          I am dropping the rotors at my machinist's shop this afternoon.

          Randy








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        Toe in specs

        posted by  Michael Yount on  Sat Jul 29 10:24 CST 2017
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        last visit: Thu Oct 23 20:03 CST 2014
        [RELATED]

        My suggestion is to use jack stands and a string set parallel to REAR wheels to set toe at the front. Otherwise sounds like you're on the path.
        --
        82 242-6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 Crosstrek







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