I've been putting the finishing touches on a B20 build for my '64 544. Part of that included a new clutch (because, well, it would be silly not to.)

The motor / crank comes from a 1975 240, so it is of the 8 bolt variety (though I don't know why that would matter much.) I ordered an OEM Sachs clutch kit.

With everything installed and the adjuster run out as far as it goes, there is barely any usable clutch, MAYBE about 2 inches from the floor (if not less). At first I thought it was the result of sloppy linkage pieces, but those have all been replaced with new parts.

As best I can tell, the clutch fork doesn't appear to be bent.

As it is, the car isn't really driveable. I'm stumped. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks as always.
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http://dylans544.blogspot.com

How is the left hand pivot point on the cross shaft which actuates the clutch? My 1961 PV544 was about ten years old when I had the same problem. The hole in the pivot point was worn egg shape, allowing the shaft to move forward, instead of rotating, when the clutch pedal was pushed.

I was able to repair it by welding a steel washer of the bracket that provides the pivot point.
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john

Hi John,

All those linkage bits are okay; I replaced all of those pieces not too long ago when the old stuff was way worn out.
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http://dylans544.blogspot.com

Being mechanical, there are several wear points in the clutch mechanism and they can all add up to make it VERY inefficient. Yes, you can do some welding, but all of the parts are available new if you wish to start afresh.

Please let us know what the problem was.

Many ask questions, but few help out by sharing their solutions!

Dont Know if this will help but my brothers 544 had a worn pivot bracket in the engine compartment.I made a new one w 2 large washers that had an interior diameter to accept the rubber grommet.[this was 1973 & the only bracket available was in sweden.]I had the washers welded together & then to welded to the old bracket ,Then the throw out rod was securely positioned so that shift s were smooth.

Please answer my free play question

Perhaps a different height release bearing was used ?

I think 58duett might be on the right track. Wouldn't the pressure plate on the 544 have been a spring type rather than a diaphragm type as in the '75? If your using a diaphragm type it may not match correctly with the fork & bearing. - Dave

All B20 use diaphragm clutches. there are two different heights of the release bearing and they have to match the clutch used Heights are 36.5mm and 43mm.
If you are still at IPD have a look at the clutches they have. Release bearing must match the clutch so a 3 piece kit is always advised. Been there and had to change the bearing which made the second in/out of the gearbox an expensive unnecessary expense.

i had a similar experience some while back. If i recall correctly, I ended up having to shim out the ball the arm rides on. Dirty but effective. I too thought maybe the throwout bearing was wrong but couldnt find a suitable replacement.

How much free play do you have?

Free play must be correct to even consider how the clutch works.

To explain - you should be able to gently move the clutch pedal about 1/2 inch without feeling any resistance - this represents slack in the clutch pedal mechanism.

If your free play is too great, the clutch may not release - if the freeplay is too small, the clutch will slip all the time.

If, after your free play is around 1/2 inch, your clutch does not work properly, then you have a problem with the clutch mechanism.

Most people do not understand free play!

maybe the engine mounts are out of place??

All 3 mounts seem to be fine. The engine mounts were replaced not too long ago and the transmission mount was replaced while the engine was out of the car.
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http://dylans544.blogspot.com