Continuing saga:

I have gone from No-Start to running pretty good on the ramps...not so good on the ground.

Will start up, idle good and rev nicely manually (using throttle body) with just a slight hiccup if I rev/let-go, rev/let-go.

I have a nasty exhaust leak that makes the 240 really sound like a tractor, but I am not blowing any smoke out the back (white or black/blue).

Put the car in drive and give it some throttle and it will bog down. I can feather the gas and limp it along, but cannot give it much throttle at all before it will bog down and shut off.

No check engine light. (unless I unplug the AMM).

I have changed the Fuel Pressure Regulator, plugs, wires, AMM, Fuel Pump Relay, ECU to a 951, both fuel pumps, and fuel filter.

A new Idle Air Controller Motor should be here tomorrow.

Any ideas? Could a bad O2 sensor cause this? When cold or warmed up?


Thanks, in advance for the help.
Chris

--
Chris M. 1984 245 "Big Lucy''-SOLD 1986 245GL. 'Blueberry' '85 245 -SOLD 1992 240 Sedan 'SnowBall' - SOLD 1990 240 Sedan (current)

Went back to the basics: Fuel Air Spark

Started with fuel and pulled the hoses on the pumps to check the flow. The in tank was pumping but not as much as I thought it should. Swapped it out with an older one I had as a spare from a previous 240...and it pumped much better.

Put all the hoses back and took it for a test drive...and it performed perfectly! Was out doing donuts in the back pasture on it.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Glad to have this girl back on the road!

Chris
--
Chris M. 1984 245 "Big Lucy''-SOLD 1986 245GL. 'Blueberry' '85 245 -SOLD 1992 240 Sedan 'SnowBall' - SOLD 1990 240 Sedan (current)

Update 8/26/19 4:08 pm:

Changed out the Idle Control Valve...it helped a little. Car doesn't die when put into drive anymore. I can give it a little gas and move. Still bogs down and tried to die if you give it much gas.

Changed out the coil, distributor cap and rotor button...and plug wires. Checked the new plugs from the other day and they were OK. No change.

I also removed the exhaust after the cat. Sounds like a bona-fide racing tractor now!! No behavior changes.

Just for fun I checked the compression...155, 155, 160, 155.

A buddy recommended checking/cleaning the EGR valve...but I cant find it on my car. Only things under the intake manifold is the IAC, flametrap box, and starter. Amy I missing something? Looking in the wrong place?

No codes on the OBD.

She idles great, can rev nicely 90% of the time. If you rev/let go/rev/let go it will seem to miss/bog down. If I hold the gas while its bogging it ill cut off. If I let go, it immediately goes back to idle and runs great.



Help!!

--
Chris M. 1984 245 "Big Lucy''-SOLD 1986 245GL. 'Blueberry' '85 245 -SOLD 1992 240 Sedan 'SnowBall' - SOLD 1990 240 Sedan (current)

EGR’s are only in California cars.

Does it feel like a fuel starvation problem? When you changed the main fuel pump did you also change the check valve? A bad check valve can starve your fuel injectors and FPR intermittently.

What about the small hose attached to the in-tank pump? Was that changed with the in-tank pump? A bad hose can also cause running problems.

Get under your and shake the CAT real hard. If you hear stuff rattling around you might have found your problem.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

I was beginning to think the EGR would be a Cali requirement...mine was shipped to the east coast.

The flex tube was replaced in the tank. I also blew out (with air) the fuel lines when I was doing the pumps.

Check valve? Not sure where that might be. I'll look into it.

To me is feels like/sounds like a vacuum leak/sucked down hose that releases as soon as you let off the gas.

Took it on a ride around the yard a few minutes ago...feathered the gas to get to around 30 mph. When it hit 3rd...she just about gurgled out...let off the gas and went back to idle and feathered the gas back to speed.

So, it seems like a fuel issue...but I can't find it.

I have sprayed starter fluid all over the place trying to find a leak, but can't.
--
Chris M. 1984 245 "Big Lucy''-SOLD 1986 245GL. 'Blueberry' '85 245 -SOLD 1992 240 Sedan 'SnowBall' - SOLD 1990 240 Sedan (current)

Please choose the MODEL / YEAR menus when posting.

Throttle position switch if LH-Jet 2.4

Throttle position sensor if LH-Jet 3.1 with manual transmission and no EGR.

Both are a TPS.

Certain no EGR?

Either the TPS adjustment or condition is such that the idle control remain on when you accelerate. The engine control fault threshold is 'forgiving' and may not set a fault code for a faulty TPS in OBD socket 2 (fuel) or 6 (ignition).

In the very few times I encountered what you describe it was the TPS. Engine control on my 1991 240 sedan did not report a fault code. The other 240 with faiking TPs switch did report it. Same symptoms.

Yet faulty or clogged catalytic converter or failing AMM / MAF or fuel delivery issue (electrically caused like corrosion at fue ends, the 25A ATC fuse for engine control and fuel pumps, fuse in the engine bay has corrosion at the connector pins or main inline fuel pump is a notion). By now, the engine bay 25A ATC engine control fuse should be secure in a weather tight housing.

The silver accordion hose between the exhaust manifold heat shroud and the bottom of the air filter box removed or you replaced the thermostat? Remove that hose if not already. Get inside the air filter box and the preheat flap valve assembly will be stuck to hot air all the time only and can ruin a good AMM / MAF. Air filter not clogged. Mouse nest in there? You are in NC-state so no reason, so far as I know, state emissions inspection requires air induction intake preheater function.

I've not read through all posts yet is the FPR original or a Bosch replacement? You can guess or bother with fuel pressure tests. Another post here details fuel pressure testing option in the current mix of the RWD index.

Check the codes again in both sockets. If anything other than the all's good 1-1-1, repeat the DTC code check until no new codes display.

Cheers,

Debt-Based Keynesian-Communism Neo-Liberal Economics Debt Based Currency Boy.
--
Donate NOW! Give your brickboard.com a big DONATION!!! Find the on brickboard pages!

Check valve is next to the main pump. It rarely goes but can be difficult to diagnose when it does. It assists the FPR in maintaining proper fuel pressure.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

The new fuel pump seemed to have a check valve on it. Everything bolted back up as it came apart. I will double check to see if there is a check valve.

Thanks.
--
Chris M. 1984 245 "Big Lucy''-SOLD 1986 245GL. 'Blueberry' '85 245 -SOLD 1992 240 Sedan 'SnowBall' - SOLD 1990 240 Sedan (current)

It might be worth borrowing or getting a fuel pressure tester before you throw any more parts at it.

Unless it is a bad CAT...:)
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

My thoughts are also that you may have a fuel supply problem. Get the fuel pressure gauge and place somewhere you can see it as you drive. Fuel pressure may be dropping as you accelerate. This would not show in stationary mode since you are not using much fuel.

beastdriver
--
Beastdriver - '75 245 240K miles (Beast) Out of service, '83 245 245K miles (Beauty),'87 244 DL 160K miles (Dodo),'01 V70 197K miles

I am one of the few here that loves my dealer.

We have driven over 600K miles in 4-700s, 3-850s and 2-XC70s - We have only suffered 3 breakdowns, and no problem has involved more than one part.

One thing to do with older Volvos is to unplug all connectors, examine the pins, male and female, clean them as much as you can, and add dielectric grease - zip tie together any that you can. I did one connector every week so that if an issue developed, I could find the problem.

Check the grounds as well - If there is no ground wire (such as a headlight with a plastic housing) the item itself must ground to the engine or the body of the car.

Once my '90 744TI stalled whenever I used the high beams - turned out to be the headlight grounds, stealing the ground connection from the ignition! Its in the 700/900 FAQ!

Have you read the FAQ? - many items on your car are like 700s - My '88 745 GLE had a 240 engine.

Also check your engine grounds - possibly one at the top of the engine and one near the bottom.

Check the pins to the AMM - sometimes they push into the connector - This plug is one of the few that gets unplugged when the air filter is serviced.

Volvos compensate quite well for wear and tear and you might have more than one issue..

Perhaps a dealer tech can find the problem - a couple of times my dealer offered a one hour inspection with a written report for free!

Most dealers cannot charge more than one hour's labor for troubleshooting - my son-in-law is a Subaru tech and that is all they charge as well.

Symptom is like a failed AMM or timing belt that skipped a tooth or two.
Dan

A new idle control valve might fix it. Sounds like a symptom of one that needs a cleaning at the very least.

Before replacing it you might consider do a little more diagnosing. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Where is your exhaust leak? If it is in front of the O2 sensor it can screw up its readings and consequently your car’s mixture. If the O2 sensor itself is bad it should throw a code. Also, if the cat is clogged it will stumble when given gas.

--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

I've diagnosed about all I know how to...read through the troulbe shooting downloads and everything else I can find. Been working on this for almost 2 weeks.

No vacuum leaks.

Exhaust leak is at the joint for the resonator...after the cat. I cant get the O2 sensor loose...but its not throwing any codes.

It the cat is clogged will it run well if I'm revving it up? Holding the gas and keeping RPM's at 3-4K? It will do that all day long...



--
Chris M. 1984 245 "Big Lucy''-SOLD 1986 245GL. 'Blueberry' '85 245 -SOLD 1992 240 Sedan 'SnowBall' - SOLD 1990 240 Sedan (current)

Weird problem! Don’t think it is the idle control valve.

If the O2 sensor is bad normally it makes the car run rich. Don’t think it will cause a stall. It will throw a code as the computer recognizes it isn’t getting the correct signal from it.

This is a definite long shot regarding the cat theory - When you drive the car the material inside (guts..:) of the cat shifts around causing it to clog. It doesn’t happen when the car is on ramps and still.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

I've replaced the AMM and when disconnecting the one on it, it runs worse. Seems to be working.

Timing has been checked and is dead on.
--
Chris M. 1984 245 "Big Lucy''-SOLD 1986 245GL. 'Blueberry' '85 245 -SOLD 1992 240 Sedan 'SnowBall' - SOLD 1990 240 Sedan (current)