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If you really want to test the pumps, I'd separate your wiring/harness testing from your pump testing. Disconnect the connectors for both pumps (inline connector is under the rear seat). Jumper 12V+ from the battery and connect to a known (test it!) good ground nearby so that you're powering the pumps directly INDEPENDENT from the upstream parts of the harness/system. That will let you know if the pumps run or not. Then, as you have done apparently, check the harness at the plug to see if voltage is arriving under the conditions it should be arriving. You should see 12v+ show up as the ignition is keyed "on" (or run if you like) and then drop to 0v after a second or two when the system shuts down the priming party because the engine isn't running/turning over. If that all checks out, you may still have to pull the intank anyway to verify condition of the probably-crumbling short, submersed hose that connects the pump output nipple to the metal fuel line all of which lives inside the tank. If you have a problem with the hose, and you're keeping the car, seems silly not to go ahead and replace the intank pump as well.
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82 242-6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 Crosstrek
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