Have a leak in my charcoal canister part #1275943 for ‘’98 V90 and can’t find the part anywhere.

Hi Dave,

Boy hasn’t the BRICKBOARD been dead for a few days.
It is getting punched out lately by a lot of 403 error codes.

I don’t know what else to do but write about your other post in my notes.
I do that to put my ideas down and massage the bad spelling and ideas out.
Otherwise, the rambling would be a lot worse! (:-(
Here’s what I jotted down.

I was just reading through this thread and I always try to read your posts.
I’m agreeing with you on the price of that purge valve being insane.

You and I know that Volvo designers with the bean counters shouldn’t have never let this evaporative system crawl off the production boards.
It’s crazy to just think that one part costing as much as they would spend to prototyped the whole system. It really is nothing but rubber plumbing.
Prototype researchers have a budget line to follow no matter how exclusive or proprietary it might look to be from the outside.
Cost Projections and ROI’s are made long before vendors bid on the production numbers.
These include during production and aftermarket bidders doing post production.

Decisions include estimating time on a shelf turnover.
Interest rates on that investment placed there versus projects making a Return On Investment.
Even the odds of failure statistics are weighed in a plus or minus decision to make an “obsolesced part” a factor.
The elbows are in favor of staying produced industry wide as being very useful. They’re not going away the later models provided.
That factor alone make the elbows to be only pennies each, not whole dollars as listed from a dealer.
Anyway, enough of that!

Since you are into experimenting with repairing rubber or plastic line and elbows I have gone to using heat-shrink tubing that’s used on electrical wiring.
It’s has weather and oil resistance of a polymer and toughness like a wire tie but thinner.
I think most are made from polyolefin is a used everywhere plastic with different treatments to change its characteristics.
On lines after shrinking it stays somewhat flexible.
The material has vacuum or pressure capabilities.

You can shrink it to a diameter to get it as tight as you need it.
Good narrow bands can act like a clamp and will seal the circumference along the splits.
Holds the hose end on the fitting.
It comes in colors especially black and it’s endless in circumference. No adhesive ends to dry and curl loose.

A three foot length and unknown size, shrink tubing could repair a lot of dried ends or long splits of an evaporative system on that posters car.
It shouldn’t weather like the rubber underneath the car.
I can understand where Blindboy was thinking of a plastic adhesive for under there. Plastic is real picky about accepting adhesives though.

I have used a purple color tubing to tell me to keep an eye on it.
A subtle one of my longevity experiments.

I have another experiment going with the 240 wiper motors.
I needed to seal the hole through into the cabin better.
I came up with a closed cell foam tube used to insulate pipes.
It looks likes neoprene too.
I found it in some of my “Hesitant to throw away boxes.”
This was a slip-on cushion piece from a Thule Kayak rack for the top of a car.
I’m a saver of scrap materials of what I can make stuff with.
All Materials are usefulness’s waiting for a project idea.

It’s a 3/4 x 1 7/8” tube x 1 1/2 long and gets stuffed between the inner cavity where the wiper motor gets bolted down through it.
I tapered the inner bore of the foam to give it a lead end relief opening.
The two diameters seal over the original grommet and deflects water from the cowling drain pan.
It backs up or sits on top of what the grommet has to do all alone
The air vent pan drops water directly over it.
Not a good design and this discrepancy has gone on for too many years. IMO.

Have you done something for yours?


Phil

Hi Phil

Heat shrink to wrap things like split rubber hose connectors is a good idea. I'll definitely remember that for next time. I often use shrink for electrical connections and the odd repair, keeping a good assortment handy, also buying it in full lengths. Only reason I probably didn't think to use it under the hood on such types of rubber connectors was partly because I consider this a temp bandaid fix and partly because I don't like using flame under the hood any more than I need to, normally using a barbecue lighter to shrink them unless I'm doing a bunch and want to drag my heat gun out (meaning a longer trip back to my workshop, which is unfortunately not adjacent to my garage area in this house).

BTW, Brickboard server has crashed twice in the past few days. Sometimes Jarrod is automatically notified and restarts the system. Sometimes I need to remind him when I eventually notice the outage is continuing more than a few hours. He's seemingly away on a bit of vacation at the moment and it took him a couple of tries to restart it this time.

why not seal it w plastic adhesive?

Rubber Vacuum hoses, not the plastic lines.

In my experience, the canister itself rarely leaks. There are plenty of rubber connectors in the EVAP system that could produce leaks though. Mine leaked at the check valve which on the wagon is available by removing the panel behind the rear seats. I’d start by checking that and other connectors before suspecting the canister. Smoke machine would be helpful for finding the leaks that are hard to find otherwise.
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'98 V90 234K '98 V90 157K '94 940 NA 189K

Working on po0442, on my '98 S90,I found numerous damaged vacuum line under hood and replace Purge valve. I need to find the location of Canister for inspection of hoses and Elbows. Where is that canister on the S90 '98 Volvo?
Car does run smoother, not sure if EVAP issue is solved.

Is this the one you're looking for, 1998 S90 3.0 6-cyl? It's quite different from earlier models. Looks like it should be mounted low, off a chassis member, probably up front closer to the rad, maybe behind the grill or underneath the battery. Lots of tubes and rubber fittings.

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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

#9 Check valve?

#9 is called a purge solenoid valve. Black plastic thingy with an electrical connector on it that's not shown in the schematic, but is shown with the individual part photo. List price over $100 -unreal.

Here's a link to all the individual parts
https://parts.volvocars.ca/a/Volvo_1998_S90-4DRS-WO-SR-30l-6-cylinder-Fuel-Injected/__5699823/Carbon-filter-with-fittings/GR-68920.html

What I've done with similar vacuum system rubber elbows where the ends split with age is wrap them tight in electrical tape and use tiny zip ties to keep the tape from unravelling. Proper black UV zip ties last longer in an engine compartment than cheap white ones from dollar stores. If it's one or two with a split at the bend then I might try using black RTV on them and let it dry before taping -just don't let any get inside the hoses, but at that stage it's maybe time for new elbows. Called a rubber coupling p/n 3531116, available from Volvo for a few bucks each. Any suitable diameter will do from a general autoparts store.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Ok, I replaced the Purge Solenoid. Vent solenoid and Canister location is needed. Don't know if I should be looking in engine compartment or near the gas tank.
The vacuum line from purge valve vacuum line routes toward the rear of car after if exits purge valve.
Thanks

I'm not intimate with the S90s, certainly not the 2017-on second generation FWD version. Your RWD 1997-1998 S90 is a follow on to the 960, a similar chassis to the 740/940s, but the 4-cyl engine compartment is laid out quite differently than yours. Until one of our S90/V90 or later 960 owners here catches this thread and is able to confirm it, here's what looks like a proper diagram of the early S90 evap system layout. It agrees with you seeing the evap line heading under the firewall toward the rear. The charcol cannister is shown underneath in front of the gas tank, although the shape of the cannister doesn't agree with the Volvo schematic I posted above. In any case, shouldn't be hard to find it once you (safely) get your head underneath.

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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

I'll remove the tire and wheel well splash guard on driver's side.
Thanks, I'll keep you updated. It's too chilly here in Md.

Did you try junkyards? Maybe Erie Vo-Vo as they specialize in used Volvo parts.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....