There seems to be a lot of work performed on the car but I would question the quality of these parts. It is hard to find quality replacement parts today and you may find some of this work will need replacement again in as little as a year or two.

If you are serious check it out on a lift and inspect thoroughly for rust and collision damage. Also look at all the parts that were said to be replaced and see if you think that is true.

Drive it on the HWY and local roads going over bumps and listening for noises and vibrations at various speeds.

This is almost a 40 year old car that none of todays shops will want to work on it, so unless you are capable and willing to do the work yourself you might want to stay away from it.

I would start negotiations at half of this asking price if the condition of the car is acceptable to you.

Good luck and let us know what you decide.

Dan

At one time, I would have said the seller is out of his mind asking nearly $6500 for a car with 270Kmi., but . . .

My son just returned a '93, 5-spd sedan to me which he had done his best to hammer to death. It has over 260 Kmi. on it ("Ignore the odo, Dad, it stop some time, ago.") When I gave him the car, I had just gone over it from stem-to-stern at 143Kmi.:ALL new suspension bushings, exhaust, brakes, clutch, valve hushers, shims, tires, blower motor, etc., etc., etc. The body WAS nearly mint and the drivetrain ran out like a German sewing machine.

My son, took good care of it for about two years, then he just ignored it. We only found out he was not using it because we got a notice to move it or it would be impounded as abandoned. My wife said we should have it towed the 75 miles to our place, but, I said let's see if we can get it started, first.

So, early one Sunday we headed out for The Burgh with a known-good battery and a five-gallon can of gas.

As he had just topped it up TWO YEARS AGO when he parked it, I never got to use the gas. We dropped in the fresh battery and after chug-chug-chug, we were off to the races.

I drove it the 75 miles home with my biggest complaint being the brakes made a scrubbing sound until the rust had been burnished off of the rotors.


So, my thoughts (if that car is really as nice as the pictures make it look):

1/ A stick would be nice, but at this point condition rules all.

2/ When you're cutting the deal, leave the last 10% on the table.

3/ Buy it before someone else does because the time you spend trying to find another one as nice will easily cost you more than the premium the seller is asking.

Rich (near The Burgh)

I can't claim to know all...
Shouldn't this car have ABS??
Just a big void where it's usually installed.

That seems a little pricey for a car with that many miles. Too bad you need a wagon, I saw a very low mileage 244 sedan on Austin Tx. Craigslist for about the same money.

I’m with Will and Kit. Way too much money for a car with 275k. Personally, I would never spend that much on any car with 275k. At that mileage the repairs are endless in my experience...
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

$6350?! They sure are proud of it and the work they've put into it!

Of all the 240s I've seen advertised in that price range in the last couple years (like 5), they're usually low mileage (<100k) and manual transmission. This is neither. Lots of refurbishment noted, which is great if you're not inclined to do it yourself (because any 30y/o, 200k+mi. Volvo will need all that and more), but there are some notable omissions such as rear control arm bushings and rear main seal. Inspect and inquire about them. Also, that rusty windshield surround is very suspect. Even without the rust, the windshield can be expected to be leaking into the cabin. To me, this further puts it out of the price range. And that failing clearcoat...

If you want a "clean" 240 wagon what doesn't need a ton of work, this may be one of very few options on the east coast. So maybe the really high price is worth it to you. But remember that the seller definitely has wiggle room in that price. Work them down, hard. The car may present well but they're also dealing with a rather small pool of buyers. It's a select few who want to drive any 240 and most of those are cheap bastards who cannot handle the idea that 240 prices are actually going up.

Best of Luck,
Will
--
XC60 / Odyssey

Overpriced at nearly 300k miles.

I'll guess the brake fluid is ATE or Volvo blue.

The rear liftgate hinges may need replacement as the typical sag appears. I'll bet the wire harness wires through each hinge have been replaced. The Volvo OEM are the only versions to get unless someone knows an OEM supplier of these. Originally made in Finland, the rear liftgate 240 wire harness wires.

The motor and transmission mounts have been replaced. The engine in the engine bay images is not slacking rearward.

The rear main bearing seal, if not replaced, will have worn where is seals to the rotating crankshaft output flange. You will also want to replace the carrier plate thin paper gasket as mineral oil cause these to embrittle, fracture and leak. Also, I've found the rear main bearing seal carrier hardware retaining torque. The same is true of the front engine timing plate that carries the front crank seal and the intermediate (distributor, oil pump) camshaft seal. Maybe vibration and oil seepage causes a loss of retaining hardware factory torque of these oil seal carrier plates.

This 240 Wagon:
- had a cargo bay third seat, usually for children to sit.
- appears to have been parked for the early portion of it's service life, yet parked outdoors for years more recently. The interior tan plastic fade provides indication.
- has been detailed to a fault. The exterior finish shows no signs of clear coat failure, as they all do. So may be a repaint. All items have been power washed, washing away fluid leak indicators. yet telltale signs show the engine leaks oil.

With any engine oil leak, begin with a positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) service. PCV is an emission control that draws hot engine oil sump fumes into engine combustion. See the FAQ link at the top of every page to go to the 700/900 series FAQ. During production run, 240 and 700/900 shared the same engine with minor configuration variance. Ensuring a clear PCV may halt or lessen engine oil leaks.

Where is the engine bay belly pan?

See the image:


The interior (center-line-facing) side of the catalytic converter is well-basted in oil. Or may be a shadow. I'll guess the AW7x tail shaft bushing and seal has failed. Unless 1992 AW7x has the bearing. I'm uncertain.

See the steering rack on the passenger side. It was well-basted in engine oil. If original, the TRW CAM rack may very well need interior (under the bellow) tie rod ends. The steering rack bellows appear to have the factory installed white plastic zip ties at the interior side (larger) end. Also, you may have a power steering fluid leak on the passenger side.

The crank pulley is certainly original. The bushing between the two section is cracked. Volvo OEM is best.

The tie between the transmission cooling lines looks weird as if bailing wire. I'm uncertain.

See the grime on the AC and C bracket. Yes, the engine is an oil leaker and was not washed or cleaned for a long time.

The motor mounts are brand new.

It appears neglected yet not aesthetically so. The price is too high. An enthusiast would pay half or less. An exception is receipts for service and parts installed in the last year under 10k miles.

How is the suspension? Dampers (shocks) okay or not? It appears to have a new exhaust section from the rear of the catalytic converter.

Thankfully gone is the hot air preheater silver accordion hose between the exhaust manifold heat shield and the bottom air inlet of the air filter box. You do not need such an emission control where you are.

You may want to run the OBD code check tests and check for fault codes. Engine compression test. I'll bet the oil is clear and new, so you cannot smell funky combustion issues at the end of the oil dip stick.

Copy and Paste URL in new tab or window:

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

Perform the:

1. Diagnostic Test Mode 1: Fault Code Retrieval

Socket 2 is Bosch LH-Jetronic 2.4 fuel injection
Socket 6 is Bosch EZK116 ignition.

If a code other than 1-1-1 flashes out from the red light, repeat until no new codes display for both test probe sockets.

All dash lights turn on before engine start? CHECK ENGINE light is on?

While you have no emission check in your region by state law (unless in Smog happy owld car hating CA, NY, or what have you), it is imperative that you ensure all emissions controls work. While not a performance car, emissions by this era on import autos are the same as performance.

Questions, please?


--
Kittys are fuzzy and sometimes fluffy! Spokane, WA RULES!

Mileage is not as important as condition. Have you driven it? If the transmission shifts smoothly then that's probably fine. Is there coolant in the reservoir? I can't see any in the photos, but it could be the lighting on a reservoir that's gone opaque. If it has gone down below the level of the reservoir tank you should try to work out where the leak is -- it may leave greenish or white crusty deposits. Check to see if the engine oil is milky-looking, which would tell you where the coolant has been going... Any car this old will need some repairs, but it looks great. Can you tell where the oil leak is coming from?