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Does your 1989 Volvo 240 display a persistent CHECK ENGINE light? Have you checked the OBD-1 using the engine bay OBD-test box with red light to check for codes in socket 2 (fuel injection) and socket 6 (ignition)?
Service manuals indicate 100k miles is a good time for replacement. You can test the oxygen sensor performance using a digital electric multimeter while disconnected from the engine wire harness.
Do NOT connect a multimeter to the wire harness side of the oxygen sensor connector as doing so can damage the fuel injection ECU!
OEM is Bosch Part Number and is direct fit: 0258003034
Bosch is revising their part number catalogu using a new part number schema. The new Bosch part number for direct fit is: 13034
The Volvo version, the same as the Bosch part, is Volvo PN 3501753.
From iPd in Portland, OR (copy and paste URL into new browser window or browser tab) for $$98.88:
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7086/102148-volvo-oxygen-sensor-bosch-0258003034-3501753
iPd charges a premium markup. Sometimes buffaloes the consumer. Always research yet get from a reliable vendor.
Please see the same available from FCP Euro in Groton, CT:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-oxygen-sensor-front-240-740-244-245-940-780-760-bosch-13034
The Bosch site webpage of the direct fit oxygen snesor for your 1989 Volvo 240 in the US market. Part number 13034:
https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/auto/oxygen-sensors/premium-oxygen-sensors?partId=13034
Bosch offers an alternative O2 sensor version. Dunno what is alternate about it. Part number 13119:
https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/auto/oxygen-sensors/premium-oxygen-sensors?partId=13119
Denso and NTK (NGK) also make exact fit oxygen sensors for your Volvo 240. I'm unsure how they compare with Bosch, yet on other forums Denso and NTK (NGK) are rated equally in quality to OEM.
You can search for Denso and NTK (NGK) yourself.
Ensure the oxygen sensor thread includes a dab of anti-seize. If no anti-seize, use a dab of Nickel high temperature anti-seize. Not copper or lead anti-seize.
If the oxygen sensor is seized in the bung thread on the upstream side of the catalytic converter, use penetrant. Sometimes you may have to use heat and acetylene torch does it.
Also a great time to inspect the header pipe support bracket connection just upstream of the header pipe out to the catalytic converter in union. The support is has usually failed causing an exhaust leak, eventually, at this exhaust union. Also, the hardware at the header pipe out to the catalytic converter in union uses feeble hardware from the factory. I've had to remove the catalytic converter, press out the forward-facing studs, and use the largest size steel hardware meant for high temperature application.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
MacDuffy's Buttermilk Tavern asking where Uncle Old Duke may be today.
Missing Uncle Old Duke.
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Beh.
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