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My dear new friends on this Forum
Thank you to all responses concerning my grounding problem.
I have a 1998 940 wagon b230FK with M90 gbox, 350’000 km, but want to do 1’000’000😎
Since a month I have the problem of a hesitating motor when I accelerate. It is not constantly a problem, but regularly. Then motor lacks of power. Have difficulties to go up hills. The starting and idling is ok (700 - 800 tours/min). But when I accelerate, motor is stumbling, like a donkey who does not want to go forward. At the beginning it was only after hours of driving, all of a sudden started. Next day better, sometimes hesitates more other days less. A week ago I had the engine light going on (problem of motor...). Then when I disconnected the minus/ground off the batterie the engine warning light went off, but the motor behaved worse and after about 50km became a bit better again - I did that twice - same result.
Ok, since I was reading what could be wrong. Here is what I did:
I kind of hoped that my hesitating and jumping motor was due to this broken ground cable, no !
- changed mass air flow meter (used part, hoping that it is working correctly
- new petrol pressure regulator
- changed Knock sensor (with used part from my spare Volvo 940) (doubting the right tork though - apparently if not correct tork gives wrong reading). But I will order new one just to be sure
- checked air leaking on apparent tubes (but did not go to intercooler connections, seems difficult to access.
- just cleaned Throttle body with new gasket.
- Checked visibly the spark plugs and wires (they made 70’000 km, but seem to be ok (with Iridium points!)
Maybe I should change also the 2 temp. Sensors on the left and right hand of knock sensor, just to be sure (good idea ? I never changed them so far) are they really temp sensors ?
Anything else I miss to solve the mistery 🧐🧐🧐 specially with my described symptoms ?
Anyway - a great weekend to you all,
Eric 🎩
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So here I am back 👋👋
I built myself a little OBD2 reader and... my Volvo talked to me:
Pretty bad talking though, what do you think about these fault codes of my Jetronic 2.4 ? Is there one base problem causing all the other as a consequence - or really that many problems ? Amazing that I can strill drive my car 😚
Here my codes:
2-3-2
1-2-1
1-1-3
2-2-3
2-3-1
2-2-1
Would appreciate your insight thoughts....
Thank you all, blessings from the old continent,
Eric 🎩
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Hi Eric the Swiss,
OBD codes are listed on this page. Other resources exist.
See here:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm
You recorded the LH-Jetronic 2.4 OBD codes. (Not named Bosch Motronic?)
You appear to have a possibly faulty AMM/MAF, oxygen sensor,
1-1-3 - Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or rich (may also be failed 02 sensor)
1-2-1 - Faulty signal to/from Air Mass Meter
2-2-1 - Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean at part load as you drive
2-2-3 - Signal missing to/from idle air control valve, faulty connection / disconnected.
2-3-1 - Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at part load
2-3-2 - Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at idle
Ignition control Fault Codes?
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm
You can reset fault codes with your OBD-2 port scan tool. And as you drive what codes return for both fuel injection and ignition.
You can inspect and test the sensor and the idle air control valve (maybe clean if carbonized, and if carbonized, inspect the crankcase ventilation).
Your used replacement AMM / MAF may also be faulty.
How lo9ng have you owned this Volvo 240?
If you have a catalytic convertor, a prolonged period f running rich or running lean will ruin a catalytic convertor.
Also, in the air filter box, is the preheater flap valve to blend preheated air that comes from the exhaust manifold through a solver accordion like hose and into the lower air filter box port. The hose routes under the water pump fan shroud. The air temperature thermostat (Borg Warner Wahler PN 704110) gets stuck to all hot all the time and in summer the AMM may not sirvide it. Replace the thermostat.
You can test your AMM / MAF and oxygen sensor with your electric digital multimeter:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSensors.htm
Other article here you can find contain additional procedure to test connected sensors.
A link to your Bosch fuel pressure regulator. Does the FPR appear factory fitted?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/240/Fuel-Pressure-Regulator/
Else, I'm unsure what to tell you.
Hope that halps.
--
Beh.
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Thank you so much for all your help !
What I did since my last message was changing oxygen sensor, but did not help to resolve my problem, but was good thing to do anyway 😎
Then I tooked the injectors out to test ( resitance and spray pattern) and found out that one was off, only functionning badly. I cleaned them all out and sprayd carbcleaner through it till they sprayed nicely and fine. Put a new injector repair kit on it with new o- rings and put them all back with new silicon grease - but the engine fault code came on again anyway. So I surely did some good to my beloved Volvo, but did still not resolve my problem.
This after-noon I changes my coolant temp sensor under cylinder No 3 ( the sensor which is talking to the engine control unit, very important for fuel trim) and hello ! Good morning ! Here we are ! Life is beautiful ! Volvos are great (again). 😀😀😀😁😁😁😁🎶🎵👍👍👍🌞🌞🌞😀😀😁😁😃😃😆😆🤣🤣😅😅😅 the fault code went off - I found the problem, pretty confident, will testdrve more tomorrow.
This issue tooked me 6 months at least to resolve !
Thank you again all - much appreciated !
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Dear Eric the Swiss,
Hope you're well. Does your car have a catalytic convertor? Cars sold in the U.S. had to be so equipped. I do not know what was/is required for cars sold in Europe.
I recall a long-ago post, where it was reported that the ceramic core of the converter had broken into pieces, so that exhaust gases could not flow properly. That "choked" the engine, limiting power output.
When the engine is idling (700-800 revolutions/minute, RPM), put your hand near the end of the tail pipe. There should be some pressure behind the exhaust. Then, have someone "rev" the engine up to 3,000 RPM, the value that corresponds to going 100 Km/H. If the exhaust stream is not much stronger, then a clogged catalytic converter may the problem or one of the problems.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Hi Eric,
Yes I see so many codes. And you have engine warning light on dashboard.
Your car has 350,000km. Has the oxygen sensor been replaced?
Bosch oxygen sensor usually lasts till 150,000km.
Amarin.
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Hi,
Just popping by this Tab, that I don’t hang out on, to see what activity there is in the board.
Some times the ALL button gets me into trouble with not knowing what I’m talking about, I think?
From what I can tell it looks like you have way too many codes stored up in the unit or what could be a problem.
I say this because your car is a later version 2.4 Lh due to the later age of my cars.
Your car may be more sophisticated in that the program uses some of those codes to adjust or adapt to the tune of the engine. This later-on became what they call “adaptive programming”
I would be pretty sure, that due to the lower sophistication or improvements not installed that you have maxed out the memory or to some extent have gotten the ECU “FUZZED.”
There are so many to check out even us humans are lost!
That is sad since we are the creators of “fuzz” on everything we do!
I would hope you have figured out the way to wipe out those memories, since you now have a light to know if it’s talking to you.
From the codes you are getting my best guess is the “emissions codes” for the oxygen sensor readings are taking priority over other function noted from your lights.
The failed injector, one of four could be from a bad connection or someone fiddling with those while it running. You got to clear that code for sure! That could setup a limp mode, for safety reasons, let alone a program, since it’s dealing with gasoline.
Again ECU’s are fast to try to self tune and cover up the true symptom or causes.
Instead of trying to buy any OBD II reader, for only Volvo codes, but think in transitions FROM OBD I limitations. I call OBD I a gun shot blast at a side of a barn. You hit the barn in one area but you hit nothing in particular!
The rich / lean code is just exactly that!
Faulty injector code doesn’t tell you which side of the four walls of the barn you shot!
The sensor code could be for failure to warm up or its flat out missing!
Air leaks up stream can affect the sensor. What condition are the pipes going to a sensor locate after a catalyst converter, if you have one? Maybe it’s plugged but it should effect overall performance. Goes for mufflers too!
Sensors do get lazy over time and can get contaminated.
But for the most part it’s only an emissions thing and you should have a light on the dash. That is, in the USA, yours is another conquest to figure on!
We need more details on how it’s running and what level of maintenance are you maintaining?
When you say you’re lucky it running, tell what’s the worst “detrimental” thing going on when you drive it at the moment?
Phil
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Hey Volvo Friends
Just to tell you that I’m still onto finding my motor hésitation.
I decided to build myself a little OBD2 device reader so I might get to talk to my Volvo 😘
and break the silence, after all SHE is alive ! I have a 940 from 98, even my local mechanic cannot read this early, not conform OBD2.
A programm or a real device is very expensif.
So I ordered some elecronic equipement (7 Euros 😎) to build simply my own 😉
I will come back to you when SHE talked to me !
Have a great day,
Eric 🎩
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Dear Eric the Swiss,
Hope you're well. Have you checked the level of transmission fluid? When was the transmission fluid last flushed (replaced)?
The symptoms you report seem consistent with worn-out transmission fluid: car won't accelerate smoothly or powerfully.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Thank you Spook for your kind reply !
Yes, my M90 gearbox has recent fluid 😉
The hesitation is pretty strong, motor dos not easely take the tours and accelerate. Like someting is holding back. Feels like not enough petrol. But pump is just new. Tried so many things... 🧐
Have a great day,
Eric 🎩
Ps: what Volvo are you driving and ... why 👋
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How old is the fuel filter?
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Sometimes the answer may be simple (facile) enough. I suspect the spark plugs. The B230 engine is more suited to use copper plugs. Similar stories happened long ago last time with those using Bosch Platinum plugs. Iridium/platinum plugs use very fine centre electrode which sometimes get covered with carbon from combustion resulting in weak spark.
Regards,
Amarin.
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Hey Friends of Volvo Lovers 👋
I followed your advises concerning my hesitation of the motor when accelerating:
I received new fuel-pump and did just install it (ouf 😅)
BUT - still the same hesitation, actually became a bit worse. Not only my 940 LT 2,3l from 98 is hesitating badly when accelerated (motor nearly dies), but now it serms that the trottle is slightly unstable and goes up to 1000 tours/min to go down to 600 and up and down - just sligtly....
What I did so far (repeat from past mails)
- chanhed Mass airflow meter
- checked vacuum leaks
- visual inspection spark plugs and cable
- changes spark enhancer
- changes knock sensor
- cleaned out throttle body and refitted with new gasket
...
Thank you reading me, if you have other good ideas,
I would be thankful,
Blessings from the old continent,
Eric 🎩
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Hi again!
Like I said I don’t hang out on other tabs too much because I do not own anything but 240’s.
The 900 does share symptoms if not the same components up to a point.
You said you were going to change the fuel pump and see that you did.
In looking over another post or yours I see that you use E85. I seriously doubt that the 900’s were designed to run on that stuff! In the USA 89 octane was the recommended fuel.
Since the 85 has a lot more alcohol, at least a third, my guess would be you have lost function of the fuel pressure regulator. Things with diaphragms get the most exposure to the alcohol due to surface area and direct contact with flow.
The diaphragm can get to softer due to alcohol, let alone with age, get stiff enough to to crack.
The fuel pressure has to be constant with flow, especially, under acceleration. The vacuum drops back with the opening of the throttle and the FPR is supposed to send less fuel back to the tank and more to the injectors.
The diaphragm has air on one side and gas on the other. If the diaphragm has more density from the gasoline on the vacuum side it will not move correctly.
The leaking of gas also get sucked into the engine so it will run rougher and that is all behind the AMM’s reading ability.
So in short the FPR can cause multiple malfunctions is subtle ways.
If you don’t have gages to observe this it’s is a wise investment to get one and swap it out for a good testing.
If not now you will need one in the future!
The next thing is involving the in tank fuel pump, especially with 240’s. There is a rubber hose in them between the pump outlet and the main pump.
I don’t know if the 900’s have a different setup in the tank or if it even has two separated pumps.
Lots of new cars put everything in the fuel tank nowadays and that really gets expensive because they gotcha!
Try the FOR it’s a lot easier to exchange out!
Phil
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Thank you Phil !
I forgot to mention that the fuel pressure regulater is new too 😉
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Hi there again today! (:) Lucky us!
Whoa! Now it’s not the FPR.
That’s complicating things a bit more.
So going to the basics, the engine is some how getting more or less air at time to create idle speed variations. This is “thick thinking” to plot what’s going on!
There are details in the notation, of “it almost dies” that it is giving way to an uncontrollable air stream.
I get from “ (motor nearly dies), but now it serms that the trottle is slightly unstable and goes up to 1000 tours/min to go down to 600 and up and down - just sligtly.... ”
The “ hesitating badly when accelerated”.
We need to insure that the accordion or snorkel tube is intact and sealing well behind the AMM.
Clamps can be tight but crooked or not capable of male the plastic material conform to diameters at either in.
The hose needs to be Free of pin holes and cracks or splits that flex open with unpredictability.
Use a bright light inserted inside the tube a flex it.
Wiggle the hose ports as cracks occur around them.
This simple part can make the idle drop and die faster than the computer program can correct.
The ECU is fast enough, that a miss fire, caused by ignition faults, are fairly occasional or not really repetitive.
This, Will vary the idle as a quick dip or into a steady changing speeds proposition!
What shape is the ignition system in and does the weather change the symptoms?
If we can clear the ignition, input air outside from vacuum hoses, and such, we might want to suspect the into manifold gasket leaking, of which, is unpredictable air source.
Past all this, I hope that we are not to a point that the AMM is malfunctioning, due to age bad air filter thermostat that cooked the AMM.
All this is under the 240’s documentation.
I have concerns that E85 fuel is not in the ECU’s programming, that is “driving adaptation or learning” and it cannot correct for the overall lesser performance of E85.
You might be saving money but you are truly going to get Less power!
How long have you been using E85?
You might consider to stop using that crap!
But, To find the true problem, you have to, carefully, change out only one thing at a time!
It is how to be scientifically correct, with one step logic, to find the “chain of calamity!”
(:-)
Gremlins love to play within those little circles!
Phil
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So here I m back afrer some other inspections and repairs to find the problem:
I changed the spark plugs and cleaned the distribution/ignition cap and finger. Did not make it better 😚
I tried to mesure with multimeter the throttle sensor and had bad readings, the reading transmitting voltage cable gave strange results and no smooth increasing values opening the throttle - so I changed it with another second hand sensor. But did not help eighter.
I the checked the new throttle position sensor and also these values were off. This couls meen 2 things: 1. My way of reading and checking with multimeter was incorrect OR: the board-computer is faulty and gives bad value for the fuel-air mixture 😤
I have a spare Volvo for parts. Maybe I should install another board computer (ECU in english?) But where is it, easy to do ? Good idea ?
About AMM - do youmean Mass Airflow meter ? How can I mesure and check that it is working fine ? And the air temperature sensor you mention, where is it and how to check if faulty ?
And finally about E85. Works great si ce 3 years, no problem, ecological, cheap and keeps engine nice and clean. I made a full tank of normal petrol - did not help the problem.
Thank you so much for all your time and help - much appreciated 👏👏
Blessings,
Eric 🎩
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After skimming this long thread I have only seen reference to the Distributor cap once. Eric says he cleaned the old one.
I recommend changing it with a known good one. Sometimes the cap can fail but be very hard to notice upon visual inspection.
--
89 240 wagon, 94 940, 300K, 94 940, 141K
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Hi there,
Wow, three years on E85! Maybe the 900 Volvo engineering department was watching out for alcohol coming forth and not during happy hours as our domestic car makers were doing! (:-(
The engine runs cleaner is interesting of what you are observing?
I guess the Oxygen Sensor loves that to keep contaminant deposits down.
It’s my understanding that you have up too 20% less power over premium fuels.
So you have cleared the ignition system for not causing any miss firing to upset the idling.
Checking the spark wires a high reading of ohms in K= 1,000’s should be around 8 K and steady when wiggled. Longer or shorter length will change the reading some.
Now with the TPS, we need to identify what type you have.
If it is analog and clicks the meter should show low ohms but most importantly a change of state with movement. LH 2.4 or earlier. On-off like a normal switch.
This goes back to throttle adjustments being on target.
The potentiometers type on LH 3.1 they will go low to high or high to low in a gradual read out but smoothly.
To me you need to make sure you have good steady connections with your leads. It is a simple device but it’s hard to hold things by hand steadily. Small insulated alligator clips leads are almost a must, especially while an on the car setting up!
The thermostat for heating incoming air was in the air filter housing on 240’s. It’s ahead of the air filter element.
Yes, the Air Mass Meter and Mass Airflow Meter are one in the same.
There is no test to confirm with true reliability on a consumer’s work bench.
It’s common practice to swap in a know good one.
I would have thought you tried that already since you have your own parts store.
If you unplug it, with the key off and start the car it will run poorly and most likely trip a code on the OBD. This puts it in “limp home mode” on 240’s.
Shut the car off anytime you mess with that connector! Same for alternators and battery cables!
Have you checked the pins in there for corrosion or slippage as they can move backwards inside there! All you need is one to miss engagement or be fuzzy with corrosion.
I keep a dielectric paste in all my connections.
Another place to clear is behind the battery, on 240’s where there is an electronic ignition coil relay.”
Do know about the 900’s of its location but the ignition system is probably the same.
The ECU and Ignition CU on 240’s is under the glove box on the firewall.
The ECU is the bigger one.
Some maintenance can be considered inspecting those connectors and applying a light coating of paste.
If you are considering exchanging these, I would prepare to give them a small spritz of something. Windshield or wiper motor leaks are always possible on the 240’s.
Don’t know if the 900’s inherited these, but age, can get you into requiring a visit.
Think of it for doing a personal health check up!
With all three of these items, they are the heart of precision spark timing and constant tuning!
I hope I keep you looking as I think you are about to discover something!
Practice with the meter makes you better!
Phil
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Hey Friends of Volvo Lovers 👋
I followed your advises concerning my hesitation of the motor when accelerating:
I received new fuel-pump and did just install it (ouf 😅)
BUT - still the same hesitation, actually became a bit worse. Not only my 940 LT 2,3l from 98 is hesitating badly when accelerated (motor nearly dies), but now it serms that the trottle is slightly unstable and goes up to 1000 tours/min to go down to 600 and up and down - just sligtly....
What I did so far (repeat from past mails)
- chanhed Mass airflow meter
- checked vacuum leaks
- visual inspection spark plugs and cable
- changes spark enhancer
- changes knock sensor
- cleaned out throttle body and refitted with new gasket
...
Thank you reading me, if you have other good ideas,
I would be thankful,
Blessings from the old continent,
Eric 🎩
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i have 93 940 & it accelerates really great,,,I replaced intake gasket & all injectors seals,, the tiny seals that surround the throttle body.
always use a new knock sensor,,
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Hi,
I usually stay on the 240 because I don’t own anything newer than my 1993 240 sedan.
The 940’s have the same basis engine for years but the fuel management system kept on getting revised with more sophistication like “self-adaptive learning” about the engine.
It’s making adjustments so that explains the delay in you finding out if what you just did fixed an issue.
The system just goes on adjusting!
From my 240 standpoint, the symptoms you are describing, on my cars, would be a maladjusted throttle switch that tells the ECU that you are leaving idle mode and want more power.
This could have been be a maladjust throttle plate, but you clean that bore out and idle speed is not the problem in there’s no rough idling to speak of?
Like I said, the fuel management system became more sophisticated and a normal switch on a 240 was being experimented with.
A variable type of position sensor got submitted into the early LH 3.1.
What was done the 240 with two simple clicks at each end versus more like a digital scale stepping with incremental measurements.
IMHO, I would be suspicious that you have a worn spot in that variating sensor or TPS.
The ECU is most like getting multiple signals that confuses the ECU program, all the while learning! Hello?
With these type of TPS’s, it’s not uncommon for them to become an issue.
The More the “Finesse” means the more “Finances!” needed!
Imagine a nice diagnostic fee for a $30 sensor or potentiometer.
It’s quite possible that the ECU does not have a diagnostic code or program to run and point it out as a malfunction. The 240 did, so maybe, maybe?
The ECU can only play out the best songs in has in the juke box!
Since I made the remarks that this engine is of the same basic design for years, there is a little consensus, on the 240’s tab, that these engines do not benefit from a smaller diameter spark exposure to the gases!
They “very tiny and short length” exotic metal electrodes but same with everything else?
Guess you have less erosion if put less in there to begin with. Go figure?
What’s with multiple ground points or a “U” groove in the middle? Oh the Games we play!
Since you have an inter cooler and a turbo you like this stuff to be best!
Platinum plugs was the rage for a while, but overall, the dealer shops didn’t like them or if they couldn’t find the problem and saw those in there, they wanted to blame them!
I bought the car used with 18,000 miles and a transferable bumper to bumper warranty to 36,000! The snagged me just like the original owner!
Anyway, It was the PO that had them in there! They said it was only one plug.
Foolish me, I said, if their so bad, why not change them all?
I then, had to pay $ for Volvo standard plugs from the shop! Still made by Bosch!
They also added on a diagnostic fee for that intermittent miss!
I did get a new full warranty (1 year) replacement rear muffler, that had fell off but now I paid for it!
I use lifetime ones now! Doubt Volvo goes there even today!
During that one warranty endeavor the tailgate had issues of failure to lock or unlock.
It was too intermittent for them to fix. Bring it back when it fails with regularity!!
Yeah sure! These cars are still too simple, really!
No dealers since 1986!
I have learned since, that it’s bad “through the hinge wiring” that affects a lot more, of which, is REGULARLY recurrent!
Yours is young!
Hope this helps you think it through.
Phil
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https://ibb.co/mcGhBmp
https://ibb.co/bLvj7VB
https://ibb.co/HTnS31L
https://ibb.co/0DWZCx6
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Hey Phil
Maybe you know about this book:
A Man and his Car from Matt Hranek
Seems to me it may be your 1993 model. I told you - your Car is alive.
I hope I can load photos for you to read/see it 😎
Will try - enjoy 😇
Eric 🎩
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Thank you Phil letting me in your world of your 240. Would love a
Photo ? Why ? Well you made me kind of dig in your attachment to your car, feels like there is a bond and that your Volvo seems alive... 😊🎶
I love mine too, for several reasons:
- solid, different, I can sleep in there if needed (pratical foe long distances I do), cheap (I never spent more than 2’000€ for a car in my whole life and... it runs great with E85 (Ethanol here in my town 54 cts instead of 1,30€).
You see here the 240 are way more expensif, collection now.... I would have preferred too 😎, saying that I’m very happy with my 940 🌞
My english is pretty poor, I understood most of it, but what means:
- the PO ?
- plugs = spark plugs I suppose ?
- TPS ?
Thank you so much for your lovely comments !
Eric 🎩 from France
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Test your O2 senor for voltage. Constance change should be happening. A Bad O2 sensor runs the engine in a base mood. Easy to do a voltage check.
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Dear Eric the Swiss,
Hope you're well. There's nothing wrong with your English! Those, who use acronyms or abbreviations, should always provide the full term in parentheses, e.g., "...in the EU (European Union)...". The reason: acronyms can't refer to different agencies, devices, etc.
For example "ATF" can refer to "automatic transmission fluid" or to a regulatory unit of the U.S. Department of Justice, the "Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives". This agency has grown to include explosives, but many use the original acronym (ATF).
"PO" = prior owner; "plugs" = spark plugs; "TPS" = Throttle position sensor.
If there's a term in French or German, for which you don't know or can't find an English equivalent, use the German or French term. We'll figure it out.
Your car's hesitation problem is almost certainly due to too little fuel reaching the engine. After 1994, Volvo used a single, in-tank fuel pump for cars sold in North America. I'll be the same is true for cars sold in Europe.
At 350,000 Km (kilometers), the factory-original pump may be at the end of its service life. The fuel filter - if it is the factory-installed unit - may also limit fuel flow. That, though, is not usual for cars driven in North America or Western Europe. There, most places selling motor fuel have filters on their storage tanks or pump hoses.
So, unless you have service records that show the fuel pump was changed, I'd suspect a worn-out (abgenutzt) fuel pump is the problem, especially as the problem seem slowly to get worse.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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For your hesitation problem I suspect the fuel pump. This because it sometimes happen and sometimes not. That part might be old enough (at 350,000 km) to cause problem.
Anyway, use the OBD first. The 940 has its own diagnostic computer. You have to check for any error codes.
Go to the two small black boxes (about matchbox size) near the power steering oil reservoir. Lift up the covers. There are Box A and Box B.
Go to Box A first. Use that short black wire that comes with Box A.
On Box A you will see sockets (holes) labelled 1 to 7 (there is no number 4).
Now plug that black wire into socket 2. Go inside car, put your key into ignition and turn key to KP II (key position 2) until dashboard lights up. Don't start the car. Leave it ON at KP II. Now go back to the engine.
Go again to Box A. Press that small black button beside the letter A. Press button more than 1 sec but less than 3 sec long. The red lamp (LED) will flash/light up. Count the number of flashes.
For example code 1-1-1 will show 3 short flashes with pauses in-between flashes. Another example, code 1-1-2 will show 1 flash, pause, 1 flash, pause then 2 rapid flashes.
Use this OBD facility on your car. Tell us if you got any code.
If you get code 1-1-1 this generally means OK and your hesitation issue could probably due to basic/simple items like spark plug, ignition cable, fuel pump and such.
For the complete list of codes see:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm
Your B230FK uses Bosch computer so use the Bosch 2.4 list.
When you finished looking for codes just turn off the igniton key and pull out that black wire.
I've been to the Swiss before. At lake Lucerne. Vierwaldstättersee. From its name I thought the Swiss regarded the lake as a small sea. At that time hotels in Lucerne were fully booked so one of the hotel staffs offered to drive us to Brunnen for another hotel in his Volvo 740. That 740 climbed the hills easily. Nice people, nice place!
Regards,
Amarin.
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Thank you Amarin for your reply.
As far as I know I do not have this black. Oxes light codes, but a (un) regular OBD connection in the arm rest box. But I never found an affordable OBD reader for this later versions Volvo 940. The connection is a Regular connection, BUT the electronics are not and can not be read by common OBD readers 😉
Yes- that would have helped me...
Thank you bringing these nice Swiss memories back to me from Switzerland, yes the Vierwalstättersee is a lovely place ! Did you see the Alps ?
Habe a great weekend,
Eric 🎩
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I'm sorry I forgot that your 940 is 1998 model.
Yes need to use ODB II reader instead. These earlier generation ODB II (around year 1998 to 2000) are hard to get nowadays. So I'll try to assist in some other ways.
About those two sensors around the knock sensor, one on the left goes to temp gauge on dashboard, one on the right goes to ECU fuel computer and EZK ignition timing computer. If you have spare just change the right sensor. This one more critical for engine operation.
I didn't had the chance to go to the Alps. Just one day in Lucerne, next day's morning headed to Amsterdam. I was on one week tour around Europe.
Regards,
Amarin.
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TRACK DOWN ALL HE POSSIBLE POINTS FOR AIR LEAKS???
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Thank you for your kind reply - so your diagnosis would be an airleak and you want me to go further this way ?
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