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Hi,
From what you are saying it does appear to be an electrical connection issue since the speed portion goes to zero.
I have never like the the three wire connector that pushes onto the speedometer circuit boards traces.
The common problem with the speedometer itself is usually bad solder joints mostly to the stepper motor as it clicks over odometer reading.
From what you are saying both must stop because you want to keep up with the mileage portion as well.
A signal reading of “capacitance change” from a proximity sensor is coming from the rear differential.
This gets processed by a chip and then the speedometer needle gets a driver current sent to it to rotate up the needle. Much like an analog voltmeter, ohmmeter or amperage meter.
This is an hybrid speedometer just before digital displays.
You may be losing that signal at the connector since your thumps effects it. It’s either that or the power supply on the cluster board towards the speedometer.
What I would do is reflow the solder all over the circuit board and add a “very thin” layer right onto the traces right where the three wire connector pushes on and grips it.
Just a little more than a tinning coating though!
This way the claws will actually plow into some solder and therefore, create some more pathway into, what otherwise is, a narrow flat surface area. The claws have a leading edge, that’s tapered, to help spread the claw.
I think it helps anyway?
Oh!
If you have not done this and the car is up around 180 to 202,000 miles, you might want to inspect the gears off the motor drive for the odometer.
There is a 25 tooth gear that slowly turns to mush and the gear teeth fall out and into the whole mechanism thus the odometer quits.
Again it shouldn’t have anything to do with a zero speed reading.
That’s all the clues I can think of for the moment.
Phil
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