My 92 wagon steering rack (pretty sure its a CAM/TRW with the conical boot ends)is leaking about a 1/4 cup of PS fluid out the passenger side boot every week. Looking on line I'm not sure if a rebuilt unit is even available anymore? Options are A. Find a rebuilt (if possible). B. Buy a junkyard unit and hope it doesn't leak worse. C. Rebuild the one I have (where to get parts and is that even doable?). D. Install a sump pump in the boot to pump it fluid back up to the PS reservoir...).
Thanks in advance for your feedback BB'rs.

Glad the additive fixed the leak. Just to clarify for other readers of this thread, the 240 steering rack is not a CAM/TRW. It is either a CAM or a TRW. The 2 types require different boots but same tie rod ends.

Owner manual for 1992 indicate Ford "Type F" as PS Fluid.

https://volvo.custhelp.com/app/manuals/OwnersManual/om_id/1202

I've used exclusively synthetic Ford "Type F".

The stupid Haynes manual 1997 imprint indicates Dexron III. Rack began to leak in 6 months or so on the 1990 li'l red 240 DL wagon. Back to Type F for that one when I also get a new rack.

Some owner manuals by year indicate Power Steering fluid.

If a power steering rack without power, lube the steering column U-Joints. Harder on U-joints without the power assist,

--
Beh.

one local mechanic uses grease, and wraps afterwards with saran wrap.
that sounds ugly, but better than letting the grease fill with road
grit and make an abrasive grinding compound.

maybe lubing with grease and fashion a suitable boot for the u-joint might be better.

comments?

bill

Or more likely this one:

https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/suspension-steering/steering/steering-rack/steering-rack/1017958/

Ian F

Has anyone actually rebuilt one? I am about to attempt it. It looks time consuming, but not difficult. I think most 240s are leaking now since the racks are at least 28 years old, so a lot of people are going to need rebuilt racks.

Hi,

I haven't rebuilt one either and I have not look at any illustrations on his they are made so I'm intrigued with the progress on this thread!
I will agree it probably doesn't seem all that difficult in the sense it's a just a rod supported in bushings. How the oil works inside to assist movements has me interested too!

I assume that there are bushings pressed in from both ends with the seals to follow behind them on the outside.
The idea that you just press in new bushings seem all right in itself but it may not always work out that way.
I think it's much like football game, you don't know exactly what you are going to run into unless you play!

I surmise this part on how I would do them on a production scale.
The rebuilders probably have what may be referred to as a "line bore reamer" to work the bushings out to a finally size and straightness.

This tool is will actually fit into one end of a housing bore with an expanding ring that fits up on the long Straight shafting.
The cutting end is guided or floated slightly, by a smaller "lead-in" diameter, into the first pressed bushing previously in.
A reamer is only used to remove a few thousandths of material.
It will always follow an existing or established hole or bore. This reamer will be flooded with cutting fluid to pass chips forward and out.
After that, the tool is reversed to fit the now reamed out bushing.
This reaming shaves out the last bushing IN-LINE with the other.

These blades or flutes of this reamer are adjustable and will be set to the diameter of incoming used rack rods. Setup to a clearance tolerance specification.
This feature allows for a rod to be resized for wear overall, let alone in the seal areas.
I will add that, they probably avoid that much work whenever possible.
This item should be very resilient against wear since they are made from good chrome steel or even chromed?
Cleaning them good or a little buffing near the new seal areas will be very sufficient.
Once they set that reamer, it does a whole lot of steering rack bushings!
Wham bam, thank you mam! This keeps it profitable!

You can buy new seals by only measuring the two diameters it fits into and around.
You may luck out and the ok'd ones have numbers!
Most seals today work with many fluids and the Temperature is not going to be big factor here.

The bushings, I would hope are of some standard dimensions as this is a high production item still used today. I expect they will have a thin walls too to keep expenses down, for them, but when pressing they can collapse a tiny bit?
It's for this reasoning I think the alignment of the bushings might be the biggest obstacle for a home mechanics!
I'm sure there can be a workaround, maybe, not even redoing the bushings and just pop in new inner, the if they have them, and outer seals through out?

It's judgement call without a referee but it's an owners decision!
Is working on your car, a sport yet?
):-)


Phil

Your explanation is sobering.
There are people on youtube who have done it with no special tools.
It looks like the only risk is leaking, which is already happening.
I dont have as much confidence in rebuilt parts as I used to.
I have an extra rack, so I can take my time.
I have a place to do it.
I have the tools for the job.
Will attempt, as the parts are $30, and the rack is 300+.

We will see.

Hi,

That’s good to hear that I was sobering to someone.
My Dad did enough for me while I grew up. He had a split personality with that stuff!
I have never been drunk in my life time and never will.

Sounds like you are like many of us on the BRICKBOARD.
We have time and tools while adding a perseverance of the challenge.
Saving a buck or two is not always a motivator but it helps!

Like others on here we want to learn as you go too!

One thing right off though, is where are you going to find those parts, since you apparently have some prices?


Phil

I finally recieved a kit, which has bushungs and seals. A friend got a kit from Rock auto or some such, that has fewer parts, no bushings. Have not tried the rebuild, but it is "on the to do list" I will let you know after I do my rebuild.

Hi,

I’m sure there are many of us interested in the rebuilding of a steering rack.

Has it been since October that you were trying to get a kit from IPD.
Is it the one you have in your hands now?
They have a service area for their trick kits and have wondered if they have rebuilt steering racks on any of the older Volvos. It would explain why they offer a kit and why they were out of stock back then.

How did you come out on your heat related issue and lost of power on the other thread?
Art had a very reasonable explanation for both by using the fuel tank fuel pump theory.
From what he was suggesting I could see a vapor locking scenario developing within that possibility.

You have had some good experiences and the posts to drive up interesting chat in this forum.

Thanks and keep them coming?

Phil

.

"Has it been since October that you were trying to get a kit from IPD.
Is it the one you have in your hands now?"
It took about 3 months to get the rebuild kit. I have not attempted to install it yet.
"How did you come out on your heat related issue and lost of power on the other thread? Art had a very reasonable explanation for both by using the fuel tank fuel pump theory. From what he was suggesting I could see a vapor locking scenario developing within that possibility."
Since the car ran fine after cooling off, and I added no fuel, only reduced my speed from 75 to 60, then encountered no further problems, I feel the radiator was partially blocked. ( It is not lost on me that overheat should not produce those symptoms.) I have since sold the car, but included another radiator,to a young man who was THRILLED to get a rough looking but nice mechanically 1990 245 wagon.

"You have had some good experiences and the posts to drive up interesting chat in this forum."
Yes I have. I have learned an awful lot from this site, and am humbled by what I do not know, and by the obvious things I miss when working on my cars. I am puzzled by issues that I can not nail down positively, the intermittant ones, ( See 3 alternators in 2 days post ). My alternator issue has gone away, but I dont feel I did anything to resolve it, though I cleaned up some wiring.

"Thanks and keep them coming?"

Of course. I would not and could not keep a 240 running without this site. I drive a 240 from Dallas to Louisville a couple of times a year, which to me is quite an accomplishment in a 30 year old car. I am retired now, and seem to enjoy maintaining and driving 30 year old cars. I am down to 5 240s now! A nice lady gave me a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder at a garage sale a couple of months ago. It sat with windows partially down for 11 years! I have been over, under, and in it since then, and am amazed at how nicely that car was built. It looks like hell, kinda like me, but is a pleasure to drive.
Thanks for the encouragement.



Phil

Hi David,

I’m responding back with a thumbs up for your post on this thread.

I hope that your response will get enough “thumbs ups”, three I think, so it will get onto the home page that is shown to those in search of a good forum with sincerely helpful knowledge.
I hope this will encourage others to try give us a follow up on their posts so a conclusion can be felt throughout all of the Brickboard’s Tabs.

I’m sure the person that is using that wagon now is very appreciative of a car that has made so many long trips in its life with you.
As we know, cars that take road trips may have lots of miles but they are easier miles and these car are use to stretching out and rolling on those miles.
I have had many people tell me things about their used 240s and most will say that it must have been really nice to have owned a brand new one.

If you gave him your “handle” name on the BRICKBOARD he can go see a history of ownerships and that car in particular.
All he needs is setup a profile that’s very non intrusive to anyone, if they want it that way.
That’s better than the very “weakly” linked car fax reports, that people are throwing their money away on.
CarFax’s scattered network of reporters are even used by the insurance companies to glean even more information on you and your interests when you subscribe.
Today so many companies are trying to mark all the creeks that can flow towards a popular river. (:)

Besides personally, I’m a Sunday Driver member, by choice and Like you, Im a writing contributor that helps keeps the board forum going.
Car Magazines have become so much more commercialize. To much for my money and I cannot have any input, so, I diverted that revenue to a better cause.
Things are not as complicated as they seem, if you break things down to the basics by using networking forums this helps experiences and knowledge to spread.

Thanks again for your stories. The Thumbs do more than they get credit for, just because, their out numbered by fingers. (:-)

Phil

IPD $33.00, though they are out of stock. I ordered them on 9/27, and have not recieved them yet.

Best of luck with doing it David. Let us all know how you get on with it please.

Ian F

Good analysis Phil, the work you hypothesise about sounds plausible, and would be beyond me (and probably most home garage mechanics).
I look forward to further discussion!

Ian F

I haven't attempted it and probably wouldn't. It's clearly a safety related item and even if you could buy all of the components it might be that they would add up to a significant proportion of the cost of a rebuilt one (but that is just my assumption).

Ian F

They are available in Europe at least - on an exchange basis. This is probably what you want:

https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/suspension-steering/steering/steering-rack/steering-rack/1006383/

Ian F

Thanks Ian, I'm actually across the pond in the US, FL. Not sure if that rules out buying from there but shipping costs would prob be pretty high?

Yes, I saw that you were in the US, but if the racks are available over here then I would think that someone over with you would have access to them or the parts to rebuild them.
I buy parts from Skandix in Germany and it costs me 30 euros for delivery to Scotland. Not cheap at all, but good quality parts for my '91 945, and better than putting the car off the road!!

Ian F

Atlanta---just short drive---if the boys got one or can point you to one.

email or phone.

http://www.voluparts.com/

Try flushing your steering rack then add 1 bottle of "Lucas brand Power steering Conditioner"

I seond that esp the Lucas. Worked great on my leaky rack

My 93 240 developed a pretty good leak. As suggested by others, I flushed the system and added the Lucas PS product. It still leaks, but much much less.

When the leaking started, I was putting in about a 1/4 cup of fluid every 30 days, and it was dripping on my carport. After the flush and adding Lucas, I have not had to top it once, but I still get a little bit of a leak that I can see on the bottom engine cover when I change the oil. It's manageable.

Thanks.

I have used stopleak conditionner with success many years ago. That product seemed to swell the rubber seals.

If your steering rack started leaking because a rubber boot failed letting dirt and sand get in there the end seal could be damaged and stopleak added to the actual fluid may be useless.

Power steering fluid must be replaced/flushed at certain period of use as well as transmission fluid to keep these parts in good shape.

Thanks for everyone's reply's, yes CB - Melvin at Voluparts my go to guy. I think I'm going to try the Lucas PS treatment AND get a used rack from Voluparts, and then maybe get a seal kit (if I can find one) and rebuild it, assuming I have the tools and knowhow to do it right. Another option would be to take the used rack and seal kit to someone like maybe a machine shop or even a auto mechanic and they could rebuild it for me. Has anyone ever taken on that job and how hard was it? Like Burco said there's more than mine making puddles in the driveway. BTW I've kept up with the tiewraps on the boots so the inside is clean (and full of PS fluid...). On a side note the sump pump idea is still a consideration, potentially maybe also rig one up under the rear main.....

Thumbs up on the Lucas treatment! 1 full bottle later, added a little bit at a time since this first post 7 months ago and the leak is manageable. Just started the second bottle, adding a bit every few weeks. Hold on the rack replacement for now. Leak has gone down from 1/4 cup every week to 1/8 cup every month.

Make sure the boot is not split letting water, dust and dirt get inside.
You should be good for a while. I overfill the ps reservoir and that let me gain more time before I check the level.