Hi everyone. I have one more knee replacement scheduled this coming week, but as I recover I intend to get my 960 back on the road. The engine sat for 18 months, and the pistons stuck in the bores, but after soaking for a month they're free now. I just need to know if the oil pan can be pulled without pulling the engine? I'd appreciate your thoughts on this!

Hi Mr Weekend,

Good luck with your Knee replacement.
I'm looking at my second knee replacement soon and in the stalling mode now.

After freeing the rings did you try to start the car, and/or do a compression test?

Bill

Thanks Bill and Dave. I pulled the head months ago, and had the warp ground out. Acetone and tranny fluid freed the pistons up, and I honed the cylinders. I leak checked the valves with gasoline, and found most of the exhaust valves and a couple intakes are leaking, so I'll hand lap all the valves and replace all the stem seals. Not so sure about synthetic oil, it got me in this situation to start with. I'm just happy to be turning wrenches again.

>Not so sure about synthetic oil, it got me in this situation to start with

I'm sure all of us would like you to share that experience.

Randy
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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal

I was unable to work under the car, my neck vertebrae were disintegrating, I had a three level armature fusion to stabilize it. The front seal behind the crank pulley was leaking, and the leaking synthetic oil ate the hoses going to the oil cooler and they burst during a trip.

I am sorry to hear this. I can only imagine how that effects all the aspects of your life.

I had no idea how synthetic oil could create the problem you are having with the car, but now understand your reasoning.

Good luck with the knee replacement. I tell people the surgeons and their team will work the magic, but the physical therapists are the ones that will give you your life back if you are willing to do what they say.
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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal

Good post, Randy.

I second what you said about physical therapists. Thanks to them and my surgeon my reconstructed wrist has most of its strength back and no pain! People are amazed with the results.

JW

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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Not knowing your engine, I got curious about what was involved for oil pan removal compared to the 4-cyl engines so did a quick search. I came up with this old thread in the Volvo Forums to help get you started.
https://www.thevolvoforums.com/threads/deep-trouble-1997-volvo-960-oil-pan-removal-has-anyone-done-this.7860/

Seems removing the cross member isn't enough and engine removal is the way to go.

Are you mostly wanting the pan off for an inspection or just a good cleaning? Thinking out loud here, I'm wondering if you drained the oil down to the last drop overnight, letting it settle in the drain pan, then slowly poured off the top, that you'd see in the residue what kind of grunge you're up against before trying to start it for a flush. Be sure to run on synthetic, not dino oil, if you want to do a better job of getting deposits out then do an early next oil change. I'm also wondering if you can lay your hands on an inspection camera with a narrow scope you might be able to get it up into the drain hole for a partial inspection. I see a cheapo scope on Temu for around $50 that's 7mm diameter (a hair over 1/4") and listed for auto inspection. You could even look down into the spark plug holes. A lot less work than engine removal if you're not yet certain the pan needs to be off.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now