Kitty, are you talking fronts, rears or both rotors? People always have varying opinions on brakes. Just my personal experience and preferences here:

For fronts, which do the most braking and take the most wear, I'm getting fussier in my old age. I've generally used Brembo (uncoated), Bosch Quietcast (coated) and Zimmermann rotors (Z-Coat, unslotted) on the fronts. I'm now a definite Zimmermann Z-coat fan, still made in Germany (almost everything else is now China). I find these are generally machined truer than the others (never needed a shim to minimize the lateral runout spec, while always with the others) and the quality of the casting metals seems more uniform and less susceptible to developing thickness variation leading to brake pulsation (which people often call warped rotors). After being so pleased with my last two sets of Zimmermanns, I'm happy to recommend them and say they're worth a premium price.

For front pads, for years I used softer semi-metallic pads, then switched to harder ceramics like Textar and Akebono, then to Bosch Quietcast for a number of years. Now I much prefer Pagid semi-metallics as a compromise between good braking, rotor wear, dust, cost and noise. RockAuto carries them at a very affordable price.

For rear rotors, I've used Genuine Volvo (uncoated, now NLA), Brembo (uncoated), ATE (uncoated, slotted and unslotted) and Bosch Quietcast (coated). My preference varies depending on what's available and at what price. ATE slotted was probably the overall best on the rears, but I think only unslotted is available now. I'd love to go for Zimmermanns on the rears, but haven't been able to find them.

For rear pads, I always now use Volvo blue box and they're generally quite affordable. Volvo RWD rear brakes have always been prone to squealing, so a softer pad helps with that, but dust soon becomes a problem, especially the hotter fronts where it gets baked on the rims. Volvo experimented for years with the 140 and early 240 brake pad materials as noise and dust were common customer complaints, until finally coming up with a pad compound they liked as a compromise.

For bleeding, I've got a homemade pressure bleeder using a small garden sprayer connected to a 500 ml Nalgene bottle (as a fluid reservoir) that's fitted to a spare reservoir cap using a threaded metal tube that extends down into the brake reservoir so as not to overfill it. Mityvac has a commonly available vacuum bleeder that many prefer. Trick with them is making sure the reservoir never accidentally empties and being sure to only crack the bleeders a little (so as not to suck air and fool you) and to shut the bleeders off under vacuum while fluid is still moving (so as not to let air get sucked back in). Many still happily do a two person pedal bleed. The main caution there is to use short strokes and be able to coordinate shutting the bleeder off under flow and not to push the pedal all the way to the floor. That will put the master cylinder seals into less travelled territory on the cylinder walls where possible scale, rust or scoring might prematurely damage the seals. Bleeding order is generally master cylinder gets done first and closest last. You can do either left or right triangle pistons first if you've got the independent braking system. For ABS brakes with left hand drive, it's right side rear first then left side rear second then right front then left front closest to the brake junction box and master (for right hand drive ABS it's the opposite).

Bleeding the ABS unit (important if you let the system run dry) takes extra effort to either trigger it electrically under fluid pressure (not easily done with our ABS systems), or simpler just to find a vacant road with a gravel shoulder (and no ditch) and slam on the brakes with one set of wheels on the gravel (being absolutely careful not to spin out of control). Do that a couple of times then re-bleed the brakes.

This is all just my two cents.

--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now