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I originally made a post asking for help with an intermittent sputtering issue I had been having with my car. You can view that thread here: https://brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1692480/940/960/980/V90/S90/945_b230f_regina_intermittent_sputtering_acceleration_940_sputter_roughrunning.html
It had always been an idea in the back of my mind to throw a custom ecu in this car and do some other things to get it making some more power. During the process, I realized, information on this stuff can be few and far between, so I decided to make this thread.
This sputtering issue was the last straw for me and I decided to go ahead with a custom ecu.
I have no experience with anything like this, and while I consider myself to be technically and mechanically inclined, this is my first car, and at that, my first project car. I'm 18 as well, so I'm running on a very slim budget; most of the money I make has been going into this Volvo.
The ECU I went with was a Speeduino. Specifically the Ocelot from WTMTroinics. I chose this board for a few key reasons. It is on the more affordable side, it was designed with 4 channels in mind, which is perfect for my 4 cylinder Volvo, and is open source. I am a big fan of anything open source. This board has been great so far, although I haven't really gotten to properly use it since my car hasn't started.
Every guide I could find on installing custom ECU's recommended that I make a wiring diagram for everything before I start wiring, but I decided to just wing it and do one thing at a time until everything that needed to be wired was. This worked out okay for me and since I'm so paranoid about things actually being connected properly, I just double triple checked everything making sure polarities were correct and continuity was correct. What I can say, is watch out for shared grounds. I wired my fuel pump up and when I turned the car to run, my passenger side window rolled down. It was a comedic way to find out about shared grounds and an easy fix, but I figure I'd mention it so you can learn from my mistakes. Wiring kind of sucks, nothing ever stays where you want it to when you have to go grab more connectors or heat-shrink, but with persistence, I did it.
It's easy to say this considering my car hasn't started since I've put a custom ecu in it, but as far as I can tell everything is wired correctly and all of the data looks right.
That is, except for my crankshaft positioning. That has been the main struggle for me on this project. The trigger pattern on my car's flywheel is called Renix. You can read about it here https://wiki.speeduino.com/en/decoders/Renix but what you need to know is that even if you get a signal, there is only enough information to use distributor routed ignition. While I could do that, in my opinion, that defeats half the purpose of a custom ecu. Without being able to adjust ignition advance, it's hard to make more power.
What now?
I'm working on returning a camshaft position sensor that didn't end up working, as it has the same issue as before, not enough information for ignition. That was quite expensive and I don't have much money, especially now with Xmas around the corner. Until I return it, I don't have the money to explore other options. What I will likely do (and what should hopefully, finally work) is attach a trigger wheel from somewhere like DiyAutoTune or this one from BlingFactory https://www.blingfactory.fi/epages/blingfactory.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/20101220-11092-13436-1/Products/BF300050to my harmonic balancer and rig up a mount for a hall sensor to read the trigger wheel.
I didn't go too far in depth on any specifics, but if there are questions, I'd be glad to try and answer any. I also got some other goodies for my car, like a new cam from IPD and I plan on doing the accumulator mod to my AW71 transmission. (hopefully someday I can manual swap it)
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Nathan Micklatcher
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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With lots of help from the fine folks in the Speeduino discord, I finally did it! I am pleased to report that although it still needs some literal fine tuning, it runs better than it ever has during my ownership (April 2024). Ignition and fuel injection are batch fired by the standalone ecu and it drives :)
Here are are a couple videos, the first start with custom ecu and another video after a bit of tuning of me drifting in the snow :)
https://drive.proton.me/urls/QR2PRYMJB0#91RWAfXSkRoZ
There were a few different changes that I had to make to solve some of the issues that popped up along the way. I will be doing a full write up (somewhere?) on this project including many pictures, videos, CAD models, products I used, and whatever else. I will update this thread when that is finished.
Was it cheap? no... I spent lots of money I wouldn't have had to if I had known certain things. Ex: I ordered the trigger wheel I designed in stainless steel the first time, ~$40 USD mistake (It's not ferrous, so the sensor didn't pick the teeth up and I didn't have a usable RPM signal)
Would I recommend it? Probably not, if I had to guess, this project is for a very specific kind of person; That being said, I want to provide as much information as I can to assist anyone else who is interested in doing this, hopefully save them from some of the pains I experienced.
Was it worth the pain? Given that I chose this pain I am obligated to say yes. Now that its running and driving, absolutely. That being said, this is my only car, and having it down for nearly 3 months really sucked. I ended up having to go back to a food service job near my house that I could get to without a car. I burned through my savings messing with this car and getting it running. My stepdad let me use his car quite a bit and as a side-affect, I ended up how to drive a manual transmission. I greatly appreciate him for lending me it so often, it made my life a lot easier. When I bought this car, I didn't really know much about cars, but I wanted to learn about them and how to work on them. I had heard good things about old Volvos. How naive I was. For better or for worse, I ended up getting exactly what I wanted and I know my 940 pretty well now. There was a select couple long, cold nights when I was wiring and whatnot and this car broke me. I was yelling at the top of my lungs out of frustration. (I suggest living in the country if you're going to employ that strategy, I do not.)
I want to say that although I always had heard that you can get away with few/ cheap tools, it is surprising how much I achieved with what I have. I asked for a socket / wrench set for my graduation gift, as well as some other stuff. Say what you will about Harbor Freight, but I got the cheapest wire welder they sold, an auto dimming mask, a spool of wire (that still hasn't run out to this day; I don't weld too much), extra tips and other accessories for the welder and a couple of grinding discs for about $250. For my needs, that is amazing.
I would like to acknowledge a few people for helping me out and keeping me going through this project and helping me to see it through. My mom and step-dad were always rooting for me and offering an extra pair of hands when they thought I might need it, reminding me to take breaks and drink water. They also let me borrow their cars quite a lot since I didn't have enough wisdom (or money) to have two cars. My girlfriend Anna, although she doesn't know much or care about cars, has been encouraging and hopeful throughout the course of this project. A few of my friends: Caden, Frenchy, Keagan, and Noah. They kept me company which was very welcome, especially once it started to get cold. Keagan lent me a diesel heater to use in my garage which helps a ton. If hell wasn't so hot, I bet wiring in the cold would be a punishment for some particularly deviant sinners. I would also like to thank the folks in the speeduino discord, namely ggurov, Joesphan, paleppp. When I wasn't having much success, they gave me things to try and helped me diagnose as well as solve problems.
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Nathan Micklatcher
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I am keeping the camshaft sensor. I didn't know it was supposed to be used with another signal. I am designing a trigger wheel and making a mount out of 3/16in thick steel.
Here is a link to some cad work I did. https://a360.co/3Bz3KUZ I have checked to make sure everything fits, I'd give more permissions to download and whatnot if I had the Autodesk subscription.
I am going to have sendcutsend machine the trigger wheel. I also bought a hall sensor from diyautotune.
The trigger patten I'll be using is called dual-wheel, you can read about it here.
https://wiki.speeduino.com/en/decoders/Dual_Wheel
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Nathan Micklatcher
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Not a lot going on with Rex (ignition) or Regina (fuel) on this board, or any others I know of, so I think you're headed to be a leader in the niche.
Here's one discussion of Rex with mention of the 1-degree resolution for timing adjustments within the 8.18 degree tooth angle, but not how the Bendix code handles it. This forum is centered more on modifications and works every time you post. https://turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/mystery-regina-project.369076/
It is about all I can provide, as a strictly 240 guy. (Bosch)
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
“Music is enough for a lifetime, but a lifetime is not enough for music.” - Sergei Rachmaninov
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Hi Art!
I actually received an email from the Brickboard on his post below the one you responded too.
I wrote the same thing as I believe his flywheel has been located in the wrong place.
The flywheel has eight bolts so it’s got seven chances out of eight of it being on there wrong from how the factory put in on there.
I looked at your link and it is indicating that there might be two flat spots to trip the CPS on automatic transmissions.
On the manual transmission one in the 240’s I was only aware of it having one.
That Regina ignition system must be different animal but when it comes down to it, a timing mark has to be in the right place.
The 240 must divide the space going around by electronic timing.
The 900 must use a different divider setup is all. Depend on how you want to skin a cat. From head to tail or from tail to head it’s going to get skinned.
The poster is only 18 years old and he’s talking about reengineering the ignition and fuel system and he hasn’t even had it running?
I think he needs to puts some bolts in a pan and check it out.
Apparently he has brains but is utilizing the wrong kind pan at this time.😉
He’s got ambition that’s a little bit unbridled as in wanting to build an ECU from a kit.
That company he is referencing is enticing him that’s built off open source Arduino Systems.
That itself is back at least 25 years and started the basics for today robotics and drones.
He might be a child prodigy, in the making, if he’s wanting to roll with that kind of stuff.
Doesn’t Volvo mean “to roll” in the Swedish language?
Interesting that a vintage Volvo can still inspire its worthiness.
Phil
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I appreciate your message. I know I bit off a lot, but I can do it. This car did run before I ripped its brains out. It's damn close to starting, I have a few more things I'm waiting on in the mail and some stuff to improve. This car will run, I promise. Its got such good bones and I want to get it up to speed with todays technology.
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Nathan Micklatcher
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Hi Phil,
I'm unfamiliar with the subtleties of Regina ignition and flywheels, but do know a bit about the Volvo name and how it came to be as a subsidiary of Swedish bearing manufacturer SKF over 100 years ago, well before the first Volvo automobile was built. Their attitude was, if it's got something round that turns, let's put the Volvo name on it.
"Volvere" is the infinitive form of the verb "roll" in Latin. Compare it, for instance, with the word for a handgun with a rotating drum, revolver. In its first person singular form, the verb "volvere" becomes "volvo", i.e. "I roll".
Ref https://www.media.volvocars.com/global/en-gb/media/pressreleases/5059
Interesting how the Volvo name and the Kodak name have something in common -a name purposely chosen to have no R or S in it to so that it's easier to consistently pronounce and spell around the world.
As Art said, best for the OP to reach out to the Turbobricks people for this kind of discussion. A good thread to start reading is this one
https://turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/volv-rex-regina-ecu-chippable.343330/
It's one thing to start throwing parts at a problem before doing a proper diagnosis. It's a whole level up from that to try re-engineering the ECU fuel injection controller. If I had that kind of talent I'd pick a B230FT w/Bosch LH to play with rather than a B230F w/Rex-Regina.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I'm working with what I got and I believe that I can make this thing turn and have some fun. I like that I have a low compression engine, because It will be good or a turbo possibly down the line... Regina sucks, but the car was in decent shape, still 30 years old, but I also wanted to learn how to work on cars. I also want to share what I learn.
I have ordered the trigger wheel (model available below)
https://a360.co/4gIRn7I
Step File: https://link.storjshare.io/s/juraf7qrbyxiznxros3jcnhmzfsa/stuff
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Nathan Micklatcher
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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For what it's worth, the Regina engines are among the highest compression of the redblock volvos. 10.7:1 I think. It's in the manual in the engine specs.
Anyway, I replied to your other post and I think you just have the wrong type of O2 sensor in there (for one thing). Regina cars also require a lower pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (SMP PR80 at 38psi not 45psi) but people do interchange them. (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=47133&cc=1288425&pt=6124&jsn=954)
If you didn't replace your spark plugs, you really still should. The problem with prying on the center electrode is that it can invisibly crack the ceramic and then it can shatter when heated up.
I've been looking for a reason to learn more about the Regina system since I daily drive one in my 90 740GL. I believe it has some slightly different pattern to the flex-plate's empty/full holes used to determine TDC.
You could also drill some shallow dimples into the accessory pulleys on the crankshaft, the oil/intermediate shaft pulley, or the cam pulley to give the Hall sensor something to read. You could even get a tone ring from an ABS System that's the same size as some other component in the timing system and try to use that.
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