It take about a hour and a half for me. I remove the four nuts from the pulley and get the fan and shroud out of the way.

Then the v belts from the other equipment. Remove the plastic cover and roll the engine around with a socket wrench on the bottom pulley in the direction of the way the engine runs until all the marks on the pulleys line up on the block.

Loosen the tensioner and push it back. Put a allen wrench in the hole of the shaft that holds it back and remove it. Slip off the belt. Clean the tensioner and the seating surfaces where it fits.

Lining up the marks on the belt to all the cam and distributor marks without moving anything and having no excess slack between (tooth to tooth). You will have to study the crankshaft pulley just a little bit here. The marks on the belt will not fit up exactly. You estimate the fit up by counting the teeth from the belts painted line to the teeth that touch on the pulley. Count from the contact point on the pulley back on the pulley to the line on the block and the pulley notch, as if the belt were laid back into them. Release the tensioner to the belt.

It all about putting it back together. As far as seals go if they don't leak or sweat oil excessivly now, leave it alone. It is usually a slow to start thing that you can plan to fix when needed. Even then, I would make sure that the flame trap is clean and no excessive crankcase pressure was the problem. Then again, unless you have a lots of time and money and want to be busy. The tensioner goes for a long time but, if you heard or start hearing a whinning noise porportionate to engine speed then its a sign of needed replacement. The water pump replacement is a tough one. The gasket to the head is the thing to watch for seepage. If the pump has 100,000mi or more I would give it some thought. To just change a gasket set then have it start making bearing noise 10,000mi later puts a dent in the old back side ,if you know what I mean!

The Haynes book is the best book for the money but I also have the Bently Service books for a better technical reference. Good for fuel injection book too, if your into better printing and follow up learning. VCOA had good pricing at the time I got mine. Shop around.