How can I tell if my calipers need some work or a rebuild?

Thanks,

Bob H.

/// Sorry for the second post but I forgot two reasons.

If when you replace the pads you cannot keep the rubber dust boots pushed back they have bee re-vulcanized in the extended position from excess heat. That means the caliper is dragging, stuck, fluid contaminated.

If when you replace the pads it takes a hammer and crowbar to push the pistons back, rebuild.

If the calipers are old, rusted, corroded, and the old four piston variety, buy rebuilt. The only good thing about fluid contamination is that you can rebuild the old cores for about $20 each since they may have had less time to wear if they failed from chemical contamination. The later mod twin piston can be accessed to hone and clean the bores.

/// On the car look for brake fluid in the pad space from the piston seals. If the pads have a "V" shape wear pattern one set of pistons is frozen, the pair with the least wear.

But if that "V" is on both front and they are Girling calipers suspect fluid contamination. The bottom or rear set of pistons (piston late mod) is connected to the front master cylinder reservoir. If incorrect fluid is topped off most of it will be in the first chamber, and go to those pistons. If the master cylinder is ATE and the calipers Girling there will be no "black fluid in the reservoir.

My attitude may be a little laisez-faire, but if they don't drag, don't leak, and do stop the car, I don't sweat it.