Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 1/2026(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 1/2011 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Head gasket job... D.I.Y.??? 200 90

posted by  someone claiming to be Yves near Montréal, formerly Yves on  Sun May 6 07:40 CST 2001 [RELATED]

Hi.

I need to change the head gasket but I would like your input on what's involved so I can decide upon doing it myself or having it done by my mechanic.

-Just how much of the engine do I have to take apart?

-Do I remove the cam assembly or does it stay in place?

-Any special tools required?

-How much time should it take?

-I'm shure I'm forgeting some questions, any input more than welcome.

The car is a 1990, 240 DL, b230 with m47 tranny.

Thanks for your time and information, it will be put to good use.

Yves.







  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    Re: Head gasket job... D.I.Y.??? 200 90

    posted by  someone claiming to be Don Foster on  Sun May 6 08:16 CST 2001 [RELATED]

    Yves --

    This isn't really an easy question. It is definately a DIY job for some people (me), but not for some others (my wife).

    You'll need to drain the antifreeze, disconnect the exhaust manifold, unbolt (and pull back) the intake manifold, and pull the timing belt. You'll also have a few small hoses and electrical connectors -- make a sketch of what goes where.

    About to only special tool you'll need, beyond a complete set of metric sockets and other ordinary hand tools, is a good torque wrench.

    The exhaust manifold definately stays ON the head -- separate it at the exhaust pipe flange.

    If you're only changing the gasket, the cam stays in the head. Don't mess with shims and adjustments unless you do a valve job, which is not commonly needed in Volvo's OVC engines. You might, however, ask a machine shop to check the flatness of the head, and perhaps take a very light cut off the head -- no more than a few thousandths. This would provide a fresh surface for the new gasket.

    This is the right time to change the timing belt, water pump, and front seals.

    Be sure to clean the passage (adjacent to one head bolt, but I don't remember which one) that delivers oil to the cam.

    You should have the head off in 2-3 hours, and reinstalled (taking your time, of course) in 3-4 hours.

    Get a manual -- if nothing else, it will have the needed tightening torques and pattern.

    You may also decide to replace the big plug in the back of the head. This might be a great time to install a retaining strap.

    Why are you changing the gasket?







    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      Re: Head gasket job... D.I.Y.??? 200 90

      posted by  someone claiming to be Yves near Montréal, formerly Yves on  Mon May 7 03:39 CST 2001 [RELATED]

      Hi Don and thanks.

      After reading your post, I think I can do the work but will find qualified help for the job.

      "Why are you changing the gasket?"

      I posted a week ago about having an oily sludge in the coolant overflow tank. The car added about 5000km (3000 miles) since it's complete coolant flush. It's still nice and green exept for the oil floating on it. (±¼ inch). Most responces were that the head gasket was going bad. Is this also your opinion? Others said it could be ATF from the tranny because I did'nt mention it is manual...

      Again, thank you Mr. Foster for sharing your vast experience, (or are you just a 240 aholic?)

      Yves.







    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      Re: Head gasket job... D.I.Y.??? 200 90

      posted by  someone claiming to be Bill D. on  Sun May 6 14:41 CST 2001 [RELATED]

      From the questions people have asked about this engine I think Don has it right with two points to add. Many people have a hard time removing the main crankshaft nut on the pulley. Consider buying the Volvo holding tool and you will have to install the timing belt and retime the engine. Make sure to set the engine on tdc before you remove anything.

      Bill D.







    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      Re: Head gasket job... D.I.Y.??? 200 82

      posted by  someone claiming to be Jim Kuenning on  Sun May 6 11:26 CST 2001 [RELATED]

      I have a 1982 GL 240 (B21F) that I am likewise considering replacing the head on. Apparently, the exhaust valve on cylinder one (closest to the front) has burned and is leaking. All other cylinders test at 135-140 PSI, #1 is 60. It burns no oil to speak of and run well running down the highway. Car has 220,000 miles on it. I found the problem when I had checked the clearance couple months back because of a missing problem at idle, the exhaust gap on number 1 was 0.003. I reshimmed it but I guess too late. All the exhaust valves were tight,0.003, 0.008, 0.006, 0.011 for 1-4.

      My question is similiar in that can I get a head with the cam already on so I don't have to mess with that (just put the whole thing as a unit checking the valve clearances). Likewise, does in intake manifold have to come out or can I unbolt it and pull it aside?

      What years of heads will fit, just the B21F heads up to 1982?

      Will the turbo head fit?

      Another question, will this problem go away with the valve readjusted? Will the seat or valve wear and produce a better fit? I don't have an experiance with burnt valves.

      Thanks, Jim







      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

        Re: Head gasket job... D.I.Y.??? 200 82

        posted by  someone claiming to be Don Foster on  Sun May 6 11:38 CST 2001 [RELATED]

        "...does in intake manifold have to come out or can I unbolt it and pull it aside?"

        Pull it aside.

        "What years of heads will fit, just the B21F heads up to 1982?"

        Hmmm. I think a head from '76 to '82 will fit. In '85 the non-turbo 240 switched to the B230F engine, and I think installing that head requires modifications (and buys you nothing in performance or reliability). The boneyards should be FULL of B21/23 heads.

        The '81 and '82 years were very common. You should have no trouble finding a cylinder head. Hell, I have two '82 heads kicking around here (one has 347k miles on it...).

        "Will the turbo head fit?"

        I think so.

        But rather than take chances with a turbo head or a B230 head, simply find one from an '82 B21F with your fuel injection (I'm assuming it's the K-jet system). A few '82 cars had the rare, early LH-jet system, version 1.0, with the electronic injectors. This head is similar to the '83 and '84 head.

        "Will the seat or valve wear and produce a better fit? I don't have an experiance with burnt valves."

        Don't quite understand your question. "Valve wear" and "better fit" don't compute for me.






<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.