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removing a damaged harmonic balancer 700 1991

Hi, the usual harmonic balancer problem has occurred; i.e., the rubber sleeve between the outer pulley assembly and the inner cup which attaches to the snout of the crankshaft has failed. Now, to remove the balancer assembly and replace it with a new one.

However, how does one remove the crankshaft/ vib. damper mounting bolt on an automatic transmission 740 Turbo Wagon? Application of an air wrench or breaker bar to the bolt head just spins the crankshaft.

Any sugggestions welcome. Thanks, Al.








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Re: removing a damaged harmonic balancer 700 1991

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Re: removing a damaged harmonic balancer 700 1991

Al -

When I did the same on my 1986 240 AW-70, I used a socket on a breaker bar. Propped the bar so it couldn't move, and hit the starter. Bingo!

Getting it back on - use the tool ref by Don Foster, or the rope trick, or the jammed torque convertor.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)








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Re: removing a damaged harmonic balancer 700 1991

There are two plastic/rubber screens on the bottom of the bell housing on the transmission.

Pop them off and use the access holes to wedge a large screwdriver (or my choice a medium pickle fork used to pop off ball joints) between the torque converter bolts and the edge of the access hole. You should be able to hold the crankshaft enough to either remove or torque the harmonic balancer.

BTW, I have torqued that balancer bolt to 35lb-ft and then angle-tightened it 60 or 90 degrees, whatever the book says, as well as simply tightened it to 250 ft-lbs...neither one ever came loose but the 250lb-ft was a lot easier to do!!









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Re: removing a damaged harmonic balancer 700 1991

Al --

You need to beg, borrow, steal, buy, or build the crankshaft tool. Plans for building one are in the archives. You can buy one for under $40.

Or use "the rope trick." This, too, is well described in the archives.

Avoid using an impact wrench on your crankshaft. Starting in 1985, Volvo's crankshaft design used cast instead of forged steel. This results in a more brittle crank, and you run a slight (admitedly small) risk of snapping your crank with the sharp impacts from an air gun.








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