Thanks to those who offered their suggestions on a recent overheating problem. John Sargent recounted a similar problem that pointed me to unclog the water distribution pipe (see the cause below).

Now, another problem for your suggestions. The engine requires about 30 seconds of cranking before it will fire, when cold. When warm, it starts immediately. The engine runs well otherwise and I believe the SU-HS4s are properley adjusted and synchronized. I suspect the fuel is not being drawn into the intake manifold when cold. Is there a secret to adjusting the choke cable? Is the fuel pump weak or looses prime? Is there a blockage in the float bowls? Are there any other problems to look at?

All recommendations are welcome. Thanks....Cam

Cameron;

I'm happy to hear that you solved your overheating problem...I love it when when a plan comes together (or a problem is finally put to rest).

My compliments also on a nice website dedicated to your 122.

My B16 experienc is very limited, but I will definately chime in on the hard cold start problem...A working, well adjusted choke is important on SUs because of their marginal atomization at cold, low flow (starting) conditions. [See also: http://www.intelab.com/swem/checkchoke.htm ...article deals with HS6s but should still be helpful]. But I don't really believe that's the problem...30sec cranking is a long time which suggests that the fuel bowls may be empty (leak, syphon, etc, ?), and you have to pump them full before you have any hope of starting...remember, under normal conditions, you start on fuel that's still in the bowl from last time you ran, not fuel pumped up during starting! I suggest removing filters, and while using a remote starter to crank, look down carbs and see if you notice fuel immediately or after ther the 30 sec crank. That should tell you functionally if bowls are some how getting emptied...if yes, that suggests a pump probem.

Good Hunting.

Thanks for letting us know how to fix the problem with the heating. As for the fuel and starting. What I found out was that with an electric fuel pump, the car fired right up right away. With the old manual, one had to crank for ever. On the original pump was a brass hand pump. If one opens the hood and pumps that pump, it seems to help also. My thoughts are that the pump won't hold line pressure and may even siphon back the fuel it can reach from the float bowls. They do make a one way check valve that would solve that particular problem.

Leonard

Cameron,

I mostly agree with Leonard. Both of my 122s (b-20, manual pump) have glass fuel filters installed in the fuel line (between carb and centerline of engine) and I notice that they will drain empty about an hour after parking. Either there is vapor backpressure in the line due to it's being directly above exhaust manifold heat path, the internal pump valve doesn't hold, there is some vacuum in the gas tank, or there is bleed to the carbs to replace evaporation from float bowls. . . or a combination of the above. Trying a check valve might not solve the problem, but would eliminate some variables from my list.

BTW, doesn't the B-16 have a glass fuel pump bowl?

You might try setting your float level a little higher.

A running engine will suck fuel a LOT better than a cranking

one, and an eighth of an inch may be a lot, especially if your

air piston is prematurely rising, which lowers the air velocity

over the bridge so it doesn't suck as hard.

BTW I've forgotten but if your carbs set the level by measuring

from the float chamber lid to the top of the float, that dimension

needs to be smaller to raise the level.

Too high will cause overrichness and flooding.

BTW flooding will make starting hard also, especially with a hot

engine.

I have had cold starting problems when the dampening oil was low or the wrong weight for the weather. Wound up using ATF in cold weather and something a little heavier than motor oil in the summer.