Hello. I'm going to rebuild my B21F engine and I have a couple of questions. I would like to use synthetic oil in my engine for its life-span; but I'm unsure about a couple of issues with its use. Here are my questions:

0. If I use synthetic oi, how do I do the break-in? Do I do a break-in at all? What procedure should I follow?
Example: a- synthetic oil and new filter
b- break-in procedure
c- change the oil and filter
d- etc???

1. I want to paint my engine but I see one big issue: I've never rebuilt an engine before. Because of this, I think that:
a- I should rebuild the engine
b- break-in the engine
c- check for oil leaks, etc.
d- re-torque all important bolts (head, intake, etc.)
e- remove the engine and THEN paint it
f- reinstall the engine

I have no problem with installing the engine and then removing it again. I would like to know what you people suggest to me. Thank you for your time and for the advice; it truly helps.

You didn't say that you were going to put new pistons and rings as part of your rebuild. If you are then I wouldn't recommend using synthetic oil during the break-in period for the rings. Use the synthetic for assembly, but use a straight 30W for the breaking in the rings. I tried to use synthetic once breaking in a rebuildt engine and the rings wouldn't seat properly. Had to use 30W oil before the rings would finally seat. After the rings are seated, use the synthetic oil to your heart's content.

If you want to take the easy way out, I have a Factory rebuilt B21E block in my garage, still in the crate. email me if your interested.

probably would be more fun to reubuild yours though.

thanks

-Bruce

Hello Clalian. I rebuilt a b230ft engine this past summer and installed it in my 91 240 wagon. I'd suggest painting the block when you get it back from the machine shop, because all of the little brackets and doo dads will be off, and it will be free of grease and old paint. I'd place the block on an engine stand so you can rotate it and move it out of the way when you need to. There will lilely be some oil on the block from the machine work, so use some aresol brake cleaner (available at most auto parts stores) to remove this from the areas to be painted. Ford red is an almost exact match to the Volvo red. Clean and paint the oil pan at the same time, and it will look GREAT when you finish.
As far as a "break in" period, I don't think this is really necessary, since you are likely using the crank, rods, and cam you already have. I used synthetic (Mobile 1 15w50) with no "break-in" and not a single problem. I've put on about 6k miles since the redo, and nothing odd has surfaced. I drive it pretty hard . I'd change the oil and filter after about 1k miles to remove anything that might have found its way in there from machining and assembly.
The head bolts should NOT be retorqued after assembly, because they are "torque to yield" bolts (they stretch slightly when properly torqued). During first oil change just go around and check if anything has loosened up.
Hope this helps......have fun!