Hi guys,
I'm in the planning stages of restoring an 1800. That is I'm about to move to somewhere with a garage and my wife's letting me get a few new toys.

Right now the only thing I really know about the car is that I want to restore one. I'd appreciate any advice, pointers, stories etc. from anyone who's done a similar project or anyone who thinks they've got something to share.

Thanks a lot.

Tony.

One major problem with the 1800 is rust. I would rather replace a bad engine than a fender on an 1800. Mechanicals are the least of your worries if you decide to make this car your project. I bought an ES with minimal rust and it has been a dream to work on. so remember when you look to buy these cars search the entire thing for body rot. look for bubbled paint. tap the panels and listen for bondo. especially check wheel wells, floor pans, rocker panels, and jack points.

I'd advise buying one that's in very good condition to start with, needing only minor repairs rather than buying an old "rust bucket" with alot of bondo, bad engine or other undesireable issues.
It'll cost you more initially but you'll be far better off in the end as what it'll cost to properly restore a tired, rusty, old 1800 won't be inexpensive and you won't get your money back if you ever decide to sell it again.
I once had a tired, old P1800 which needed alot of repairs but it wasn't worth all that as its body and interior were in poor condition. If I ever get more space for more toys, I too would consider another 1800 but it'd be a newer FI model and in better condition than my last one.

Cheers guys,
I'm actually more in it for some fun in the garage. It'll be nice when I have a working car to drive in but I'm going to enjoy the few years it takes me to sort the thing out, so I'm not really after a runner in the first place. I know the final value of the car is going to be less than I shell out on the restoration but I expect to get as much satisfaction from the work I'll be doing as I will from the driving.

Tips on where to look for rust is invaluable, I could also do with info. on where to get a decent workshop manual (I'm uk based) and a parts list.

Thanks a lot.
Tony.

Seems like the leading indicator of rust is the front jack point crossmembers. These go between the sills and the inner subframe about 6 inches or so behind the front wheel. This part just seems to go first for some reason.

Other 'hot spots':
- around the headlights
- bottom edge of front fenders (behind the removable fender liner panel)
- sills
- bottom edge of rear quarter panel
- floorboards
- trunks (if parked outside and the trunk seal isn't too good they fill with water) - this can rust holes in the top of the gas tank too

More seriously:
- the front subframe - front bumper mounts, steering and idler arm mounts, sway bar mounts
- the structure that runs under the fender along the hood shut line (there is a foam gasket which is supposed to seal off a fairly large confined space between the fender and the engine bay wall - when it ages and leaks salty road spray goes right in)
- gas tanks on older models with upward facing gas fillers