I'm going to be pushing loads of boost through my engine as soon as I get this *$&#! turbo problem fixed, and I'm wondering since I don't have much free time, how much do you think a shop would charge me for a re-ring and rod bearing job on my 1989 B230FT? Before you guys say "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" know that it is broke and needs to be fixed.

I'd just rather have someone else spend their time on it than me.

Ryan

If it's broke and needs to be fixed, you should shop for a good used engine if possible.

The reason I say this is, if the rings have to be replaced, you should have the cylinders honed. If the rod bearings are shot, then you should be having the crank machined. If the rods have a problem (?) then it's very expensive.

It might be cheaper to get a good, used engine from a low mileage, later year wreck, and drop it in. If someone else is doing the labor, I'll tell you that the cost will escalate in a hurry. If it's a direct swap it might be MUCH cheaper. Of course the engine will cost you, but the labor will be much less.

It depends on you. If you want to have all the labor hours done, you're going to end up with an engine that's virtually new, save for the head. That's good, but it gets very expensive.
--
Chris Herbst
1992 745, 68k

And others:
93 944, 150k
90 245, 110k
88 744, 160k
87 245, 185k

Excellent advice!

Well, I have a line on a 1985 B230FT with 103k miles on it for really cheap, but I just really don't want to have the car out of commission for the amount of time it takes to do a complete engine swap.

I figure drop the pan in the morning, fix that evil knocking sound with bearings, restore compression with the rings, be done by the time it gets dark. Is it NECESSARY to hone the cylinders or can one get by w/o.

Ryan

The 1985 B230FT has the small connecting rods and the thrust bearing on the center main bearing. The K blocks (started about 2 months into the 1988 model year) have the larger main bearings and thrust bearing on the rear main bearing. About 2 months into the 1989 model year production Volvo upgraded the connecting rods to 13mm (from 9mm). These rods are much stronger, and the K block is much better for an engine boosted above stock.

If you acually have connecting rod knock instead of piston slap I seriously doubt that you can fix the rod knock with new bearings. Once a connecting rod starts to knock, the impact loading of the rod knocking stretches the arge end of the connecting rod out of shape and while new bearingss will reduce the knock they will not eliminate the knock. I have personal experience in this area.

If all you have is piston slap, keep driving the car and save your money. You can buy a K block with the large connecting rods for about $800 at a wrecking yard near me. If you have someone else overhaul the engine, you will spend about 2.5 to three times that. And, that is neglecting the costs of removing and replacement. Mechanics need to earn a decent living and those projects take time and material.

Yes, you have to hone the cylinders to get new rings to seat.