Is there a way to test the hall sensor with the distributor removed from the car?

Sure. Put +12V on the + terminal, ground on the - terminal, and a volmeter from O to -.
When you turn the shaft the voltage should switch from +5 to 0 and back several times per revolution. The +, -, O markings are on the outside of the connector body, farthest from the shaft. Unless, of course, the connector body is broken, in which case the red, #1 wire is +, O is in the middle, and - is at the other end.

Thanks! That is exactly what I was looking for. I just want to confirm it is bad prior to spending the big $$$$$ for a new distributor or trying to replace the hall sensor.

THanks again!

Well, it isn't the hall sensor. It's the wiring, either in distributer or wiring harness. I connected the distributor to the wiring harness and while moving around, it fired the injectors and the lead from the coil. Sometimes it will fire while rotating the distributor shaft but not what I consider consistently.

I checked the wiring harness and found some of the insulation missing so I did a down and dirty repair with liquid insulation. It looks like I will not be able to avoid replacing the wiring harness too much longer. The connection block at the disbutor is new so I know that isn't the problem.

I'm going to check it later when the liquid insulation has dried. Hopefully, it will work for now. Thanks for your help again! Your test sequence for the hall sensor was great, it allowed me to isolate the problem.

My experience has taught me that most problems related to
Hall's sensor are hard to isolate. They are intermittent in nature.
Also, most act up when certain high temperature is reached.
Catching these with distributor removed will be nearly impossible.