The folks at Pep Boys checked my 1989 740GL's a/c system today, and told me that I need a new high side line that runs between the compressor and the evaporator, a new Rec. filter, and a new drier. Couple of questions:

I need to convert to R134. Does the volvo refit kit come with any of the items listed above?

Isn't the rec. filter in the drier?

My local volvo dealer was insistent that volvo never made a refit kit, and told me to go buy one at NAPA after they ordered me a new high side comp-evap line. They quoted me a price of $140 for the line. I know volvo made a kit, so they're just plain wrong on that one, but $140 for a pipe? Is it possible to get that cheaper? Is there someone online I can order it from?

Also, the line Pep Boys is referring to - which one on my compressor are they talking about?

I know that's alot of questions, and I appreciate any help anyone can offer.

Thanks.

Your local Volvo dealer sounds like as big an idiot as the one around here(Arkansas ), I had to order a retrofit kit for my 240 from Borton Volvo in MN.
Very reasonable price. It would be worth checking with them. www.borton.com

Pep Boys? I would rather overheat and blow my engine right outside their store than allow them to touch my brick.

2 incidents and I vowed never to buy or go to them for anything.

Get another estimate.

I took off the high pressure line from my compressor to evap. connection, took it to an A/C shop, charged me $30 to reuse the ends and make a new rubber hose part. Works great!
Try it, you'll find lots of use for the other $110.
buena suerte,
el Raidman.

1) There is an accumulator/dryer on the firewall.

2) Volvo made a conversion kit, indeed. The cost at retail is about $100 for everything you'll need, sometimes less depending on dealer markup (locals here are very high). I wouldn't go with any other than the Volvo one because the price is right, and the parts ALL fit, right.

The conversion kit comes with accumulator, all necessary O-rings, Ester oil, new R134a orifice tube (mandatory), R134a conversion stickers to mark the system with, and a new R134a fitting. You sometimes have to buy a supplemental filler pipe, but that's not very expensive.

You can get aftermarket kits, but I've noticed that they're just as expensive as the Volvo kit.

Depending on what happened to the high side pipe (probably bimetallic corrosion which is a very common issue) you can shop the aftermarket to see if there is one available. Sometimes NAPA is a very good channel for aftermarket pressure hoses, pipes, and whatnot. I've saved TONS of money shopping there as opposed to the genuine thing.

Also if it's not a bad problem, you can have a GOOD A/C shop repair the line (sometimes). I've had that done a couple of times for $25.

--
Chris Herbst
1992 945, 71k
Volvo shop tech

Hello,

I'm not sure exactly which line they are referring to, but there is no single line that runs from the compressor to the evaporator. On the A/C system's high side, there is a line that runs fro the compressor to the condensor, and then one that runs from the condensor to the evaporator. I can definitely believe that price, as I recently replaced the condensor-to-evaporator line on my 1988 760. The line came in two pieces: one was around $70 and the other around $80. So, there is $150 in one line alone. Very expensive indeed, but if you want A/C, it is really your only option. I thought about a junk yard line, but then you run the risk of it being no better than the one on your car now. I must say though, it did fit very nicely and was ALMOST worth the money (I say ALMOST :-). I'm not sure if any aftermarket place could get you a line for less, but you run the risk of having it not fit properly.

As for the retrofit kit, Volvo does indeed market one. The kit is very thorough, and includes the accumulator (as Pep Boys called it "the drier"), the R134 low side service port, R134 Ester oil, a replacement orifice tube, R134 retrofit notification labels, and any necessary o-rings. I paid approx. $100 for the kit, which is WELL worth the money (many manufacturers charge this much for the accumulator alone). Basically, the kit includes everything you need and desire for the retrofit. I'm not sure what this filter they are talking about is, as the system uses no real filtering. Anyway, if you have any more questions let me know. I would be happy to help...

Joe Schaefer

Where exactly is the condensor located? The evaporator is on the other side of the firewall, behind the dash, correct? Once I find these parts, finding the connecting line with the hole will be much easier.

Thanks again.

Try the Parts Bin for discount volvo parts, I recently replaced the high side line for about $50+. The high side goes to the condensor located in front of the radiator. It is smaller in diameter than the suction side which I believe does go to the "dryer"( I guess it does contain a dessicant to remove moisture?)I suggest replacing all the orings if you're not sure about the material and age.

I wouldn't replace any O-rings that you don't have to. Disconnecting an otherwise good line to replace a seal may destroy the line in the process. The fittings become corroded and the nut can shear off the end of the tubing, leaving you with a very expensive problem. Anyway, as said, the high pressure liquid line is the small one that runs up the frame rail on the passenger side. The line connects to the evaporator inlet at the firewall on one end, and at the condensor outlet at the other end (the connection is under the car where it cannot be seen). There is also a large diameter line right next to it that connects to the accumulator (the giant aluminum cylinder attached to the strut tower/firewall). The one that usually corrodes is the small, high pressure line. As Chris had said, a steel clamp on an aluminum line is just asking for trouble (why does Volvo do that anyway?). The dissimilarity between the two metals usually causes corrosion at these clamps and then the line needs to be replaced (that is exactly what happened to the line on my '88 760). If you do replace the line, I would suggest cleaning the clamps thoroughly and then applying a light coating of ATF between the clamp and the line. The corrosion inhibitors in the transmission fluid should help to keep the problem from recurring. Anyway, I hope this helps...