Hey guys,
I was changing the timing belt on my 1994 940T this weekend and ran into a small problem. After I got all the various belts off (i.e., Alternator, a/c, etc) I began working on the harmonic balencer (crankshaft pulley) Got the bolt off fine, but I could not for the life of me get the pulley off the crankshaft. Tried prying behind the thing using a block of wood for support and leverage and I couldn't get it off. Do I need a pulley remover for this? If I do could I use the "hook" kind? Thanks for any help fellas.
Michael

Michael,

First off, mine is a 1992 940 non-turbo, but I think the timeing belt is the same set up on both cars. I don't see where you used any type of penitrating oil. I had the same problem with my harmonic balencer when I changed my timing belt. After removing the bolt and washer I sprayed WD40 on it and waited a half hour tapped it with a plastic mallet then used a screw driver just like you said and it came right off. I have been told by folks on this bulletin board that there are better penitrants, such as PBlaster that you can use that might even work better than WD40. This was the first time I removed a harmonic balancer from a Volvo, so I was expecting a pressed fit like on the Ford and Chevy's I'd done before. When you get the rust and crud off, the pulley slipps right off and slides right back on. No excessive force required.
A word of caution. There isn't a Woodruff key on this crank shaft. The pully is keyed to the crank shaft by the timing belt pulley or gear installed on the crank shaft right behind the pulley. Mine had been treated unkindly in the past so I replaced it this time. There was a slight crack in the tine. The timing belt pulley or gear cost fifty dollars, so treat it nice. Pay attention how the cupped washers that are on each side of the timing belt gear is flared. They both must flare out rather than in. I was told by someone else that they put one on backward and it destroyed the belt in no time at all.
Second caution. Check the timing belt tensioner. My timing belt only had about twenty thousand miles when the tensioner froze up and destroyed the belt. While you have the belt off, check that the tensioner turns freely and that there are no rough spots when you spin it. I'll change my tensioner at a hundred thousand miles when I change the second timing belt. I don't believe the previous owner changed it when the second belt was changed.

Great suggestion, however I already did that. I sprayed the area with some CRC rust penitrant. I put everything back together and I'm going back under the hood this weekend, with a puller on standby. Hopefully the CRC will do its job and free up the pulley. Thanks for the suggestion.
Mike

Had the same problem and bought myself a puller kit made by german company Kukko, part # 124-K.
http://www.baumtools.com/library/kukko_tech/english/12.pdf
Very short and wide puller is necessary since I have ECC and cannot remove condenser which would have been necessary for using a standard three arm puller.
It is pricy but very high quality. No affiliation, happy customer only.

Happy Bricking
Mikael Larsson

One more thing: It is a reasonable assumption that the Volvo service literature does not specifically endorse this procedure, so it would be a reasonable assumption to make, that you should proceed cautiously.

The Brickboard five-0 have been chasing me; I have to tread lightly.
--
1992 940 wagon, 72k
make people envious; smile often.

Now that was three responses to one post. Do not let it happen again.
BTW when are you having another parade.
--
90 744ti, airbox, K/N, manual boost, VDO, modified exhaust.

I'll be having a parade this coming Friday.

And you might as well not BOTHER showing up if you don't have a lot of confetti :)

Now I'm going to fix my sticky enter key before I go mountain biking.
--
1992 940 wagon, 72k
make people envious; smile often.

Take a rubber mallet or a light hammer and tap the perimeter of the pulley, going around the edge as you tap. Sometiems you can hit on it a few times in one spot, and a few times directly across from that spot. Repeat a few times but don't smash the thing unnecessarily.

Eventually you should be able to just pull it off. You'll see it start to move around a little bit, and that's the high sign. Sometimes you have to wiggle it back and forth a little bit as it goes, though.

I've never, ever, needed a pulley puller to take off the crankshaft pulley. It's virtually impossible for it to get badly stuck on the crankshaft. You can smear a little anti-seize on the crank when you slide it back on, so next time you know the same thing won't happen.

--
1992 940 wagon, 72k
make people envious; smile often.

I figured I didn't need one and that mine was being stubborn. I having my dad bring a puller from his shop anyway. As much as I like taking hammers to things, I'll try to keep from hammering away at my 940. Thanks for the help Chris.
Mike

Hopefully you have a pulley puller that can hook onto the inner part of the pulley. It'd suck to separate the rubber part.

The 20lb sledge is effective here. If you have enough swing, it'll knock anything loose. The downside is replacing the airbags, A/C condenser, and the crankshaft ;)

Sorry for duplicate posts, if any...
--
1992 940 wagon, 72k
make people envious; smile often.