a few questions now that i have everything unbolted/mid swap.
1 is the seal/retainer for the pilot re-useable ? & what's it made of, i've got a replacement bearing, but the shops won't be open tomorrow if i mess things up.
2 i'm about to undo the cross member to lower the tranny down, does the engine need any support ? it looks like a worst case scenario would have the valve cover resting against the firewall, i know there's been mention of this big plug on the back of the engine, but i can't forsee any issues with it.
3 any reason not to remove the reverse lockout ? it's just an annoyance to me, but i thought i'd leave it in place until i've taught my gf to drive standard.
4 what about the allen bolt/speedo cable retainer ? i see it in the manual, but no such item on my tranny, nor the replacement, is it needed ?
just 12 more hours 'till i can get back in the garage to finish up my wrenching .. i'm looking forward to moving from tractor noises to older car noises.
thanks
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-- '82 245GL, B23E, K-cam, under restoration, 350k km --

hey, I just got done with a clutch and let me pass on what I learned...

1. The retainer is also held in my the back two bolts of the oil pan. Just undo the two and the retainer will come out. Use a utility knife to cut a little of the gasket. Use RTV sealent when re-install at the bottom of the retainer.

2. An auto-body dent puller works great for pulling out the pilot bearing. Just buy a cheap one at the auto parts store (less than $20). Take the new bearing with you to make sure the end of the dent puller will fit in the hole.

3. Check the teeth on the fly wheel. Rotate it on re-install for "fresh" teeth and spent the $35 to have it re-surfaced.

4. Have a "crap" load of extentions (about 24" worth) when installing the tranny.

5. have fun.....

Will

Hello-

Although it may not be necessary, it would be best to support the engine. I found the easiest way is to tape a 2x4 or other small piece of wood to the head and let it rest against the firewall. I replaced the clutch/rear main oil seal/pilot bearing and encountered several unexpected problems:

1) It is easier to replace the rear main oil seal with the oil pan off. Since removing the transmission is a real pain, you might want to do this while you're under there as well. Getting the pilot bearing out will be difficult without a slide hammer, but you can reuse the retainer just flex it a bit to make sure it's still in good shape before you put it back in.

2) Although the manual says the oil pan can be removed easily, on my GT I had to remove the engine mounts and raise the engine with a jack to get enough clearance from the oil pump pickup.

3) On high mileage cars (such as mine) I found that the rear main oil seal had worn a slight groove into the driveshaft -- be sure to align the new oil seal with the groove or else it WILL leak and ruin your new clutch within a year (trust me!).

4) For best results, use a Volvo clutch or other heavy duty clutch, not whatever they sell you at Kragen or Grand auto, etc. although it is heavier and bulkier it will last much longer. Also don't forget to get the flywheel flattened at a machine shop.

5) My speedo cable unscrewed from the overdrive unit, and required no special tools. The hardest part of the entire operation (in my opinion) is getting to all the bolts on the starter and at the top of the bellhousing for the tranny. After that it's a piece of cake assuming you can get the transmission back into place. Although the M46 is light enough to man-handle into place, it will be much easier to lift it into place with a floor jack.

PS if you are going to let your gf drive your car, be sure to leave the reverse lockout in place. An example of what can go wrong:
Going downhill slowly, you think you put it into first but it's really in reverse and as soon as you let the clutch out you stall the engine QUICK and place severe stress on the entire drive-train.

Good luck!

I thought that you would place the seal in slightly different position so that it would not leak. I see an old seal leaking past the original groove that it has worn. Why would I place the seal lip in the old groove. I'm curious since I am in the process of doing the front main again which has a groove also. Thanks
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92 244 lowered, Bilsteins, IPD sways, Unitek cam/header, TSW Revo 18x8's 76 Datsun 280Z lowered, modified head, cam, headers, intake

Nitro:
1. Retainer for bearing is reusable, I've done it many times. Just clean it up and coat it with Pblaster or grease to keep the rust down. It is made of steel as is the retainer clip.
2. The engine needs to be supported, usually with a bottle jack and a 2X4 on the oil pan bolt. I have access to a car lift so I don't know how others do it, but plan to support the engine.
3. ???? your call.
4. 85 and on 240s did not have the speedo from the tranny, but from the differential.
Buena suerte,
el Raidman

hey thanks =), ya the picture in the manual makes it the retainer look like a bit of plastic ..
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-- '82 245GL, B23E, K-cam, under restoration, 350k km --