My '86 245 has about 210,000 mi. Don't have any idea when the last clutch job was done. The clutch is real stiff and has some chatter when engaging. I replaced the cable thinking this might be the problem. The old cable looked great inside the sheath but the end where it connects to the pedal was ready to break. One side where the pin goes through had worn through and the other nearly so. This tells me the stiffness is down in the clutch. Am I thinking right?

The new cable did not make the stiffness any better. I adjusted the pedal play to specs but in a short while the play had increased to where it needed adjustment again. The clutch fork looks to me to be bending right at the "keyhole" where the cable is connected to the fork. At least I think the fork should be straight.

Has anyone had this happen and what was the cause? (binding center hub, worn output shaft splines, bad fork pivot?)

I had the stiff cable symptom on my 83 and the local Volvo repair place said "worn-out clutch". He also noted that the cable adjuster was at the end of its range. I had to believe him since the cable was new only 30,000mi ago. I went for the OE (Sachs) kit, a few extra bucks but cheap insurance - it's not a job you'll want to do twice. As Richard (Hillsboro) said, get the flywheel resurfaced to mate perfectly with the new clutch. The Sachs kit comes with pressure plate, disc, release bearing, and alignment tool.

I now have (a) thinner wallet, (b) nice light, smooth clutch. The mechanic replaced the rear crankshaft oil seal ($15) while he was in there, as it usually needs it and 99% of the labour is already done with trans, clutch, and flywheel off. A leak there will ruin your new clutch fast.

I asked for and got the alignment tool (he had plenty), as I may one day be brave enough to try replacing the flywheel ring gear on our other 240.

I've had two quotes from Volvo-only shops. One was for $650US, the other for $650. Both included replacing the rear crank seal and turning the flywheel. I might get a lower price at a place called the "Clutch Doctors" but I'd rather stick with a Volvo shop. What did your clutch job cost?

Well, if you are comfortable crawling around under the car, you might consider just going the extra mile and changing the clutch itself.

You'll probably need ramps, a couple of jackstands, and a floor jack. I had a OD blow up on me, and the replacement tranny popped out of 3rd and 4th, so I've changed my fair share (and your fair share, and HIS fair share) of trannies.

Make sure you also have a spline alignment tool handy, and a shop lined up in case you have to have the flywheel resurfaced. The easy part is getting it out - I always had to work it for an hour or so (on my back, under the car, legs supporting weight and arms doing the manuvering) before the stupid thing would pop back in.

I believe I saw a full clutch replacement kit (clutch, plate and release bearing) for $159 at the alloemvolvoparts.com site that has banners on this board. While you're in there though, you might consider replacing the pilot bearing as well. Same car as above had a bad squeak that I traced to that bearing AFTER I'd pulled the tranny to replace the release bearing. Ugh.

Good luck!

(links in signature may not work yet)
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--Richard (Hillsboro, OR)

I have done two clutch jobs on my back. (and without a tranmission jack too). I'm a bit past the age of bench pressing the tranny. What really bothers me is a vertigo problem I've started recently. It's really not fun to have the world spin around when you try to get out from under the car (and still sober too!)