Greetings all-

The brick has new belts, hoses, themostat, and H2O pump. It cools down at higher rpm, but almost hits red when idling. I went thru the archives and some have noted to check the fan clutch thing; it mentions to check the resistence when engine is cold and then hot. What exactly am I checking for? What should a good fan clutch feel like under those conditions?

Any other tips/advise appreciated.

Thanks-

Joe HC
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1977 244, 140k, IPD anti-sway bars; 1988 245, 206k

Some people seem to have good results with the high pressure washers, but I had a bad experience many years ago and have never used one since. It is hard to direct the flow straight throught he radiator and even a slight angle can bend the soft fin material and close off (or tear out) sections of the fins.

I always remove the radiator from the car to clean the exterior. It is a very easy task and if you haven't flushed and renewed the antifreeze lately it is the perfect time.

Remove the shroud screws (2) and then the hoses and the two holders at the top- lift out radiator. Hold it up to the light. You should be able to see through it. If not use a garden hose from the backside of the radiator to use the water to force the bugs, dirt and cat hair out the front (from hence it came). Hold up to the light again and see where additional work is needed, repeat.

If you have any areas where the fins are flattened and restricting air flow use a small screwdriver to straighten them up. While the radiator is out use the hose to direct the water to the backside of the condensor and try to remove as much foreign material as possible. You are looking for good airflow and if it can't get through the condensor it can't get to the radiator. Good luck.

Randy

Before you worry about the fan clutch, clean the exterior surface of the radiator. The cooling fins get clogged with road grime over the years, and airflow is reduced. If the thermal spring on the fan clutch does not get enough airflow, the clutch will not engage. Best way to clean is to remove the fan and shroud, and grill, and flush from both sides. Start with the engine side and flush the entire surface of the radiator with plenty of water. High pressure car wash is best but inconvenient. A nozzle on the end of a garden hose works well. You will probable flush out about 5 pounds of dirt. After flushing the rad thoroughly, go from the front side and clean the A/C condenser, then go again from the engine side 1 more time.

I was having the same problem. I cleaned out what road grime, bugs, leaves and whatever else was on the radiator. If it's hot, I'm using the A/C, and the car is idling, I still get pretty warm.

Some have suggested that the radiators get plugged up throughout their life, and a new radiator is the only real cure.

I am in the market for one right now, and here is what I have learned:

OE replacement is fairly inexpensive, it's the same plastic end tank / aluminum core design. Some people don't like this setup because it may not be as effective at cooling, the tanks can crack, and it's not servicable. Most new cars that I'm aware of come with a plastic/aluminum radiator and they do just fine.

There are also at least three all metal versions available too. Rad-tech and Nissens are common, but I've seen others as well. Most (all?) sport a thicker three-row core, and purport to cool better than the aluminum/plastic ones. One parts supplier who sold both radiators was hesitant to make any claims about all-metal being better than aluminum/plastic, but did offer that the three row vs. two row made the all metal one more suited for heavy duty use.

The Rad-tech version is cheaper by $30 or so, but according to another supplier it is "less well finished" or something along those lines. Basically it sounds like it's the same in description (brass/copper three row, heavy duty...) but not as well assembled / manufactured, and maybe not as well designed. Who's to say?

Finally, to confound the situation, Nissens (the manufacturer of the "ultra-duty three row all metal monster" makes a newly designed aluminum/plastic configuration that *supposedly* "cools better than ALL of ther all-metal radiators" It's about $150 - a bargain if it really is better.
All of this info comes from www.thepartsbin.com, or whatever it is.

I'm not sure if we should believe the last statement or not, but if it's true I'm going with that bad boy. I've never owned a car that had an all-metal radiator, and it somehow seems outdated. Am I missing something?

-Steve

Before you go and replace things like the radiator, check to see if the electric fan in the front of the car works while the A/C is on. I had the same problem while idling, that the temp would almost hit the red line. I found out that the relay that controls the fan had a bad connection point. instead of buying a new relay, take it apart and check to see that point where the peices come together are not covered with carbon from arching, and see on the back if and of the solder joints need to be re-soldered. A good way to see if the relay is bad, take the relay off and jump the 2 red wires in the connecting socket while the A/C is on, you should hear the fan kick on. If it turns on then your relay needs to be fixed or replaced.

Just curious, which of your six volvos has an electric fan?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore