For several months I had a leaky brake distribution block. Every morning and night I had to top up the master cylinder, took to carrying a 12oz can of DOT 4 in the car. For a while this was better that the $150 the repair would cost.

Well, sometimes I forgot to top up the system, and the brake failure light would come on. So, I would top it up. Luckily, the air that got into the system was still in the vertical lines down to the D-block so the bubbles would float up and out.

If the brake failure light did come one, I was able to clear it by stepping hard on the pedal, engine off or running. This seemed to move that piston back to center.

Maybe that'll work for you. Plan B would be getting under with the pick to manually move the thing.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Be advised I am only passing on what I have been told- I have never had to reset the switch in any of my cars.

I was told that if you remove the plastic cap that the wire clips to that you then use a small metal device (drill bit or dental pick?) to reach in and center the slide switch. This breaks contact and when you replace the cap and reinstall the wire the light will be out. Of course it would be imperative to be sure that the system is 100% as you don't want to disregard the warning light if something is actually wrong with the system.

Randy