My ever so slightly more complicated procedure:
1) Take the valve cover off, pull the coil wire
2) Starting at one end, crank the engine until the #1 valve is open, then set the #8 valve.
3) When #2 is opens, set #7, (and subsequently 3/6, 4/5, 5/4, 6/3, 7/2, and 8/1).

This ensures you are setting the clearance with the valve fully closed (i.e. with the lobe 180 deg from the lifter). I usually use .018 or .019 with the engine warm but not hot.

But then again, what do I know. I think my exhaust valves are receding somewhat quickly - I've had to start adjusting them every 3 or 4k miles to keep them from getting to tight - especially the 2 middle ones. It might have something to do with the exuberant use the car gets (a 2.2 liter in a 544 is pretty fun). Either way I forsee valve work in my future. I might get a big valve, ported, reshaped CC, shaved high compression head from those gearheads at KGTrimning.com, perhaps with a better cam (currently running a stock 'D' grind). That oughta perk it up from its current 150-ish HP...

Adjusting the valves on a B18/B20 is extremely easy. You set the engine to top dead centre, ie the "0" timing mark on the pulley The engine will now be in either the number 1 cylinder firing position, or the number 4 cylinder firing position.


You can tell which by wobbling the rockers. If the valves on 1, 2, are loose you are firing on number 1. If 8, 7, are loose you are firing on number 4. At TDC 1 firing you adjust valves 1, 2, 3 and 5. You then turn the engine through one full revolution, back to "0" (ie you are now on TDC 4 firing) on the pulley you then adjust the remaining 4 valves 8, 7, 6 and 4.




Regards


Pete

One thing the Vclassics archive didn't give is the actual clearance.
There is always the motivation to set them to a smaller clearance than
specified. This is a BAD deal! Sure, it's quieter but when the valves
get good and hot, their temperature (especially the exhaust valves) is
quite a bit higher than that of the cylinder head because of their exposure
to heat and their small area of conductivity through the valve seat and
stem. Therefore they expand more. If the expansion begins to approximate
the clearance, you have less time in contact with the seat and also less
contact pressure between the valve and the seat. This results in the head
and especially the seating face of the valve getting VERY hot, burning,
pitting and cracking. So resist the urge. A little clatter is not that
bad a problem and will will pay for itself in valve life. I burned up
a set of B30 exhaust valves setting them to 0.018" and driving across
the desert.

Because of the larger diameter of the valve stem, 0.018" is specified
for the B18. I use 0.020" or 0.021" for B20 and B30.
--
George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma

Go here. Look at 'valve adjustment' under engine etc.

http://www.vclassics.com/archive/index.html