I just picked up my new Volvo today and I can tell it won't be long before it's love. However, my new car has some issues at and above 65 MPH.

The steering wheel begins this shimmy dance when I hit 65 (the speed limit on most highways in PA). Now, I had two immediate thoughts, either it needs a front end alignment or one of the tires is off balance. Could I be on course with this or could it be something more drastic like the sway bar or ball joints.

I think the steering is kinda loose as well but seeing how I don't know if I know what that means, I'm not sure.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!
--
Jen | 1986 244 DL Graphite 122K

Hi Pops,

Live here in Ashtabula County Ohio, have an '83 245 that came to me from CA 'bout 2 yrs ago. This car was well kept and driven on good roads, you can really tell cuz suspension feels tight and resilient.

Present car has >160 K, have no odo or speedo yet I know the car will cruise 80 mph in OD (man trans.) esp. if I'm drafting a semi.

Previous Volvo 242 was way worn out, beat from years in Cleveland and neglect.
But it, like present wagon, benefitted substantially from replacing the ball joints, a DIY job.

W/ strut susp. the ball joints take a beating--no upper b.j. like in old days. My cheapo '85 Cavalier (FWD) needed 'em also.

If rubber boots on any steering/susp stuff are ripped, joints can be contaminated and "past it". Bottom up, not top down like w/ painting a house.

Frank in O HI O

Jen -

There is a quick check for you that can help diagnose. Jack up a front wheel just off the ground. Grip at 9:00 and 3:00 and attempt to move the wheel as if steering. You can feel any slack easily. If there is some, look around the whlle while moving and you might see the tie rod ends, or the ball joints, or the tie rod inner joints giving the slack.

Then grip the wheel at 12:00 and 6:00 Attempt to move the top in and out. Check for slack. A lot of slack here means a front wheel bearing problem.

The other posts are all good ones. Especially the parts list. It's a DIY job although a big one.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Hi Jen,
I have an 86 as well, coming up on 100K ore than yours, and I love driving it. It's my favorite car out of our fleet. I just finished going through my front suspension, and I'm disappointed that I waited as long as I did! Your car will be perfectly tight and smooth when you replace all the loose things. Just because it's 16 years old, there's no reason for it to drive and feel like an old car. And the parts are really not that expensive. Your steering should not feel "loose". There should be virtually no play in the wheel. None. If there is, you have worn-out tie rods, almost certainly. You could very well need ball joints too, although I replaced one of my original ones at 203K miles.
With new front end parts, balanced tires, and a proper alignment, you should *never* feel any shakes or bumps up to any speed that the car is capable of achieving.
Here's a list of what you might need:
(from http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo240ftsuspension.htm)

3516944 Outer Tie Rod End $8.00 TRW or Lemforder (2 each)

CALL Inner Tie Rod End Call Scantech (2 each, about $70
each from volvo, est. $40 each here)

274119 Right Side Ball Joint w/ PS $15.00 TRW (1 needed)

274118 Left Side Ball Joint w/ PS $15.00 TRW (1 needed)

CALL Steering Rack Boot Call Scan Tech (2 each, these list
for $20 each, but I'm sure are much less here)

1205825 Front Lower Control Arm Bushing 2 per car $7.00 Scan Tech

1273778 Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing (Right)$7.00 Scan Tech

1359812 Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing (Left)$7.00 Scan Tech

1205991 Upper Front Sway Bar Bushing $0.75 Scan Tech

Tire Balance: $5- 10 each
Alignment: $40 or so

Most of the parts are not much labor to install. Once the tie rod
ends are changed, you HAVE TO get an alignment.
Good luck with it!
Rob Bareiss, New London CT

before you pay any money for an alignment check the large front control arm bushings - at 122K and 16 years they may be aging a bit.

Tires/rims out of round (balanced maybe, but out of round none the less) would cause a shimmy...

Could be tie rod ends as well...

And lastly it may need an alignment, but typically not a shimmy type issue....are there any strange wear pattern on the tires.

How are the strut inserts? (have they been replaced)

ball joints probably still OK at 122K
--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

Well, the cheapest fix is an out of balance tire or two. I'd pursue that first, assuming the tires are good. I never seem to buy used cars with good tires, maybe your better than me. While I was checking my tires, I'd do some basic checks with the car on jackstands, check tie rods, ball joint looseness, etc. High mileage cars 150,000 or better will likely need ball joints and bushings. Tie rod ends inner and outer could also be worn. Good luck.