Okay, first off I have a 83 245DL with 199,000 miles on the clock. The owner of the local used volvo parts yard is selling me his 85 245 DL with 164,000 miles for $100. He said it needed a new oil pump and he said it started running crappy well before the pump went out. The engine is in pristene shape so he thinks it my be the computer or harness. Other than that the only thing the car needs is a fender and a hood. My question here is should I use my 83 to fix up the 85 or vice versa? The 85 has the b230f and the newer body style (which I thought didn't start till 86 even though the engine started in 85.) will the oil pump from a b23f fit and function correctly on a b230f? Also what do you guys and gals think is making it run crappy? I figure since it has the newer engine and body I may be lucky enough for it to have the newer harness. BTW did they ever put the b234f in the 240? If so what years and if not will it fit? Is there a turbo version by any chance?

Madwagon,

Your mechanic's car sounds like the perfect candidate for a personal parts car. I doubt that it would be worth the effort and expense involved to make it roadworthy again. If it's been driven for an extended period of time with low oil pressure, odds are that the engine is anything but "pristine."

Define "running crappy." At that age and mileage, both the computer and wire harness are suspect, along with a host of other (expensive) items. The new & improved harness didn't start until circa '88/'89.

The "new body style," characterized primarily by two square headlamps, a third brake light, and a few trim changes, started in '86. The B230F was introduced in '85. A B23F oil pump will not fit a B230F.

What is wrong with your '83 that you want to fix it up? Sounds to me like it is in far better condition than the '86, even with higher mileage.

Here is what all is wrong with the 83

Stuff it needs:

hood
passenger front fender
front bumper
passenger front turn signal
metal part that runs underneath the headlights behind the bumper
front passenger door
front and rear drivers doors
front seats
dashboard
console
rear brake caliper and disc(some how got rock stuck inbetween them)
tailgate latch guts on the inside (no longer stays closed or locked)
front drivers side wheel (bent)
pretty much the whole front suspension
pretty much the whole rear suspension
A/C compressor
rear drivers outerside door handle and inside door handle guts
front passenger outside door handle guts
windshield
stock in the Bondo and 3M corporations
heater core
plus it runs funny

What the 85 needs:

hood
front passenger fender
rear brake caliper
radiator that I had removed and put in the 83
oil pump

the interior is in pristine shape and the only rust is along the outside of the tailgate window

The engine was not run long at all with the oil pump being deceased, I was there getting parts for my 83 when he drove up cussing becuase the oil light came on.

He had just recently rebuilt the whole front and rear suspensions, and tranny and installed a new clutch. All about a year ago. Plus he has had the head worked and a IPD VX cam installed and with the IPD exhuast. He was originally asking $500 for it but kept reducing the price accordingly after I picked various parts off of it.

I would go with the 86 even though I prefer the body style of the 83. Even if it came down to droping a new engine in there you would probably spend less money and time. If you are sure that there is no rust except for the tailgate, then that is a huge plus. Pull up the carpet in front of the driver's seat and inspect the rocker panel. This is the #1 spot for rust on 240's along with the rear wheel wells. The IPD upgrades are nice too! Good Luck
Marty

80 242, 84 245

BTW I have seen the car personally obviously from my last post and it has the new headlights and the black trim like the 86 on ups but the title and regristration both say it's a 85. Is this thing like the first "86" in existance or something? That is why I am curious about it.

The VIN will tell the story. And the plastic tag inside the driver's door.
The 10th digit of the VIN is the date code. It starts in 1980 with an A. 1986 is a G. Your VIN will read something like:
YV1AX8847G1123456
If it says "G" there, it's an 86. If it's an "F", it's an 85. It could very well have been built in 1985, and therefore confused some idiot clerk at DMV or a previous owner. If it has the big headlights, it is an 86 model.
I bet you'll find the build date to be August or September of 1985... anything built after August 1st is the next model year and must comply with that year's requirements. The car will have, I'm sure, a 3rd brake light. That was a change required by the US government for 1986 model year cars. Also there should be a white tag under the hood saying that it "complies with emissions regulations for 1986 model cars" blah blah blah. That's a sure sign.
DMV probably screwed up once when it was titled. Just make sure your insurance company and DMV agree when it comes to the paperwork.
By the way the digit after the G will tell you where it was built. 1 is Sweden, 2 is Belgium and 3 is Halifax, Nova Scotia.
Rob Bareiss, New London CT : 86 244, 87 244, 88 744

Hey I gotta website here that will decode your whole VIN#. www.volvoworld.com/VIN/vin81-96.htm Good Luck with your car. Sounds like quite a project.


Jack
--
'92 240 w/ RF 320S amp & Infinity Perfect 12.1 Sub