I'm hoping someone out there can help me out. I have been reading through the postings about cars that wont start and I have tried everything in the response posts and nothing seems to work.

Just to give you as many clues as possible I will try to give you as much info without taking up too much space.

-Exhaust manifold bolt broke on the way home. Pulled the Turbo and exhaust off, re-tapped stud holes, put turbo and manifold back on clean and checked with new gasket.
-Noticed harness was falling apart. Removed intake manifold and harness, re-wired harness and replaced. Re-installed cleaned intake with new gasket.
-Car wouldn't start.
-Checked all wire connections and draws according to Haynes, everything checked out good.
-Checked all vacuum hoses, everything looked in reasonably good shape.
-Checked fuel pump relay, no worky-replaced, worky.
-Checked in tank pump, no-worky, replaced, worky.
-car still doesn't start.
-Checked for spark. Lots of spark
-Checked for fuel out of cold start. Nothing!
-Checked connections on cold start and voltage and amps. Loooks good according to Haynes.
-Checked main injectors, upon cranking the engine, one shot of fuel the first time then nothing fromthat point on.
-Replaced fuel filter, just because.
-checked air flow sensor, filthy, cleaned and replaced air filter.
-Checked control valve in fuel distributor, doesn't stick AT ALL.
-Oh yeah I checked all my fuses, they all are good and clean.
-Surfed the net about K-jet systems and posted a request for info. I know a ton about it now and still the car wont start (thanks for the replies).

The problem seems to be that I am not getting any fuel to the injectors, I don't have the necessary gauge to check fuel pressure and I don't know if I can afford to spend the money, since I've spent enough so called "troubleshooting" already.

The engine will crank just fine but it just wont start.

Is it possible that I have a vapour lock in the fuel lines? If so how do you get rid of one in the K-jet system without bringing the vehicle in to someone with some fandagled piece of diagnostic equipment?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Have you done the fuel pump delivery tests with the car off and the relay bypassed. You didn't list that. The Bentley manual has a good procedure for that. I would at least bypass the relay and try lifting the venturi plate with the injectors removed. If the injectors spray then the Kjet is probably not the problem

I don't have the procedure in my Haynes but that sounds like exactly what I had planned on doing tonight.

I was going to pull the injectors and tape up some bottles to them, lift the venturi plate, pull the coil wire (do I need to do this?) and bypass the FP Relay and see if anything came out of the injectors. Does this sound like what you are suggesting?

Do you have any tips you can provide me with? I don't have a Bentley and can't seem to find one around here, at least not on short notice.

Thanks

bentley proceedure
To operate pumps without engine running: jumper across terminal 30 (big red wire) and 87 (or 87/2 the heavy yellow-red wire). You remove the relay from the plug to do this. The pumps should start running. They also recommend a switch in the jumper wire to turn the pumps on and off.
tests: delivery volume: undo return line and put in a jar. run pumps for 30 seconds exactly you should get 1 liter of gas.
with the injectors removed you can test for fuel by pulling up on the venturi plate
You should also check for and ignition signal on terminal 31b on the relay. If there is no signal the pumps won't run

Two questions:

Do you have +12V at the main fuel pump?

Does the main pump work when you turn the engine over?
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http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

Yes and Yes. I've checked both pumps, he in tank pump didn't work that is why I replaced it.

Thanks for the quick reply

Do you have fuel at:

a) the fuel filter?
b) the fuel distributor?
c) the control pressure regulator?

You did say you didn't have fuel at the cold start injector, right?

Have you checked the frequency valve? (freq. valve connector too?)

--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

Pablos,

a) When I removed the fuel filter to replace it with a new one, fuel shot all over the place when I cracked the seal, so I suspect that I do have fuel and a good amount of pressure at the fuel filter. The amount of pressure? I don't know, but enough to shoot up about 5 feet in the air when the seal was broken.

b) after trying to start the car with the new filter on and it didn't run, I traced the fuel line from the filter to the fuel distributor and took that hose off to see if there was pressure and fuel. There was fuel and pressure, I don't know if there was as much as there was at the filter because this time I loosened things a little more carefully to keep the fuel from spraying all over the place. There was still some spray and fuel.

c) Haven't opened that yet but I plan on it tonight. I imagine that I probably lost most of the pressure going to the regulator from the distributor since I've already released most of the pressure in the regulator when I opened the feed line. Also I removed the line coming from the regulator to the distributor so that I could get to one of the screws holding it to the fuel/air assembly. Should I crank things over again then check for spray?

Where exactly would the frequency valve be on my B21FT? I checked just about every connection and wire in the engine compartment but I'm not entirely sure what everything was that I checked. I'm trying to use my Haynes to guide me and it doesn't have everything that is on my car, so some things are unknown and still referred to as "Thingy" or "Doo Hicky".

the freq. valve is right next (attached to) the airbox/fuel dist/fuel meter flap) the only thang with electrical there...it's the sucker that buzzes...

yes crank the car again

another thing (and forgive me for not re-reading all the posts) - when you lift the fuel meter flap, do you get injector spray?

what do your plugs look like now?
--
www.fidalgo.net/~brook4

I haven't checked spray when I lift the plate but that is my plan tonight.

If the sucker buzzes does that means it works? What resistance should I have on it?

My plugs look good and the gap on them is perfect. They're about 8 months old.

If the kjet was working before you took the manifolds off I would assume that it is not the problem. since you had the intake all apart I would carefully check all the connections and hoses for splits, particularly before the turbo charger. If you were changing the air filter check the frequency valve connection and the intake boot. They can get knocked off. It would have to be a big intake leak to stop the car from starting. Have you checked the idle control hoses?
It could also just be flooded. Have you tried holding the gas pedal to the floor while trying to start. It should start without the cold start valve. I doubt it is the lamda sond unit as they will run without that too (been there). They just run extremley lean because the frequecy valve doesn't operate.

I checked all the hoses and wires for splits and cracks. I replaced all of the damaged wires fromthe harness and there were no holes or splits in the hoses. I beleive the frequency valve is attached to the air intake boot? I checked the connection there at the passenger side front fender and it looks fine. I haven't tested it because my Haynes doesn't tell me the specs on it.

The hoses from the auxillary air valve are fine, no splits, no cracks. I checked the voltage and the resistance to and fromthe valve and they are reasonably good. Haynes says the valve needs a minimum of 11.5 volts. I had 11 volts. Do you think 0.5 volts is going to make a difference?

I have tried to start the car with my foot tothe floor, all that happens is the engine turns over faster but still doesn't start???

I don't think my B21FT has lambda or is that the same as my O2 sensor on my exhaust manifold?

Any more ideas?

Thanks though for your help. I will recheck waht you have suggested to make sure I haven't missed anything.

Similar tale with a 80 GT and replaced everything off parts sled but the main fuel pump that was only a year old. Hate to say it, but my pressure was inadequete at the filter. Gas should shoot at least 10 feet; mine was only six inches and thus would not run the system. Main fuel pump was/is defective.
This is my first posting and I also need help
80 240swdl; changed the heater and now it will not start. No spark from the coil. charge at both - and + of the low voltage leads on the coil. Question, where does the white and red wire from the - on the coil go to? Haynes only has electronic ignition diagrams, and I suspect this is the problem.
Got any ideas?
Thanks.

I have a Volvo Service Manual for 1985 240. There is a page titled Ignition system, Turbo (TSZ-2). Maybe this will help.

Is this what you have:
From the coil is a BN (brown) wire on terminal #15 (which goes to the starter and gets power there), and a W-R (white-red) wire on terminal #1.

The W-R wire goes to a connector that is on the RH side, en route to the Control Unit.

It's a small, square connector. Two wires go in, W-R and W, and one comes out, W. The W goes to the control unit terminal #16. Apparently the coil fires when the ground side circuit is broken by the control unit.

The picture of the control unit shows 5 wires, in this order: GN, BN, BL, SB (black, ground), and W. Be sure the ground wire has a good connection. It is attached to the body behind the washer tank, along with the ground for the RF headlights and corner lights. The SB wire may not come direct from the control unit, but run along inside a harness for a small distance.

The BN wire that provides power to the coil comes from the starter. It has full power while the starter solenoid is engaged. When the solenoid disengages, the power to the BN wire comes via the ballast resistor. This is a tube-shaped thing with pointed ends and wires out each end, one BN and one BL. It is mounted on the RH side, maybe on the firewall.

If the ballast resistor is bad you get start but no run. Test by jumping the resistor.

If the coil ground side is open, you get no spark. The ground failure can be the control unit or the connection of the control unit to the car body.
Check that one first, it's a cheaper fix.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Which ignition system do you have? I have been having trouble decifering anything in my Haynes manual as well, it seems to have everything in it other than what I actually have in my vehicle. I will check my car tonight and see where the white-red wire runs to and get back to you. I think on my car the wire from the - on the coil is actually brown and it runs to the ignition control module on the front left fender.

I don't know about 1985, with the B230 motor, but I had a similar problem last fall on my 1984 245 (non turbo). Lots of spark, but no fuel when I opened up the injector line. (Right about then, I really started wishing I had a carb.) The problem turned out to be the ECU (fuel injection computer). There was some kind of bad ground inside it. Was able to isolate the problem by examining the fuel pump relay. Whenever I manually grounded that relay, the fuel pump would work. It was supposed to ground itself inside the ECU. Once I put in a new (used, actually) ECU, things worked great.

Don't know if we have the same fuel injection system, but it sounds like your computer isn't telling the system to work. I'd look at the ECU. The wiring diagrams in Haynes are okay, but do you have a Bentley manual? I seem to remember those diagrams being even better. I love the Bentley manual, and you should seriously consider investing in one if you're going to do a lot of your own work.

Mind telling us the cost of a ECU from the junk yard and parts store?

I got an ECU for my 1984 245 from somebody in Boston who dismantles Volvos. I'd bought used parts from him before on Ebay, and knew he was reputable. He charged me $75 for it, plus overnight shipping.

I remember calling around to several other places, around the country, and being quoted prices significantly higher than that.

Most frustrating was no longer living in Southern CA. I could have driven over to any pick-and-pull and no doubt found one within an hour. Don't know what they would have charged, but likely less than $75. But here in rural Illinois, there are exactly ZERO volvos at the local junkyard.

Unfortunately I don't have a Bentley manual. I think it is about time I got one though.

The relay works fine, I followed the directions from previous posts and re-soldered (sp?) the board inside and it clicks away when I turn the ignition on and the fuel pumps whirr but the damned piece of.....my beautiful baby just wont go...

My fuel injection system is the K-jet, with mechanical injection, the injectors aren't grounded, they have little valves in them that open when the fuel pressure reaches about 3.3 bar. That is why I was thinking there was some kind of blockage anomaly or something. Maybe I could suck out the blockage or force it out by pulling the injectors and jump the fuel pumps and have them dispense fuel in to a couple of bottles or something?? I haven't tried this but I was thinking about it and if anyone has a stern warning against this warn me now..Please!!

I have a feeling I will be digging in to my deep pockets to purchase a Bentley pretty soon.

Thanks for your help.

I think Jessie is spot on about an unmetered air leak check inlet hose to turbo and outlet hoses also. My B21FT will stall if I even loosen a hose clamp.
Also check where connections to hard intake pipe are made. After I repalaced my turbo and harness I had a no start until I either wrapped the hard metal hose w/ duct tape or had an air tight connection w/ the pcv hose.

One more thing short of taking injectors out, pull the mixture plug on the fuel distributor and take something small like and ice pick and gently push down on the mixture screw--this might get something unstuck. You might also, if you have the long 3 mm mixture tool richen the mixture 1/8 of a turn clockwise.


Just a few thoughts.
DHall