Morgen,

'81 244 GL projekt kar gets better daily but money's tight and are saving for truly "important" parts like exhaust and suspension.

This car came to us w/air intake/vac. probs, clogged flame trap, etc, typical stuff that ignorant p.o.s hadn't touched in 10 + years.

Hadn't had a K jet car since 74 142, took me a while to figger it out since my 240 exp. is only on 2 '83s w/ LH setup.

The aux. air regulator (aka idle motor, idle control valve...) is dysfunctional on the '81 and at the moment is totally off the car w/some 5/8" heater hose in its place. I know valve is bad cuz disk inside is stuck closed (should be open when cold) plus resistance of heater element is double the spec. (60 ohms).

Car starts immediately from cold no prob, rpms at 1500-1700 or so seems about right. The car has an automatic; when fully warm, trans in N/P, idle is at 1100-1200. In "D" foot on brake tach reads about 900-1000 which to me seems fine. Base idle screw is all the way in, can't slow it down any more. Not sure I want to.

Any suggestions as to how to encourage girlfriend to open hood upon warmup to pinch closed "bypass" hose (clothes pin works) to simulate operation of air reg? Is this rigging bad for the f.i. system or engine generally?

Frank

lly

Ive got an idle air control valve from an '82 k-jet, I can clean it up and test it out, it should be enough to get you going. e-mail me offline (click on the envelope near my name), to work out the details.

Matt

--
'82 DL - 150k, '93 945 - 96k

Or, how about using the vacuum controlled heater valve from a 700? That, a few feet of hose plus one of those little valves you can get at an aquarium shop should be just the ticket!

A I remember my K-Jet car, I don't think there was an ECU with any notion of what the aux airvalve was doing or for that matter any feedback to the throttle plate from the idle air, so I don't think there's any harm to be done by manually controlling the idle air.