After getting advice from the board I had 3 different methods to try for getting
the fuel pump out of it's cave. The return line is not easily removed from the metal line coming out of the tank and makes it "interesting" to pull the works out of the tank through the access hole in the deck of the car. So I had the these suggestions.....
1) Cut the return line and splice a new length of fuel line in.
2) Heat up the return line and push it off the barbed metal line.
3) Pull the return line up and out (after disconnecting it at the junction).
I opted to try pulling the line up and out and with a little pulling and twisting it came right up. I now have the whole works on my bench. Found that
the rubber (bellows looking) in tank hose had split. So while the in tank pump
is working, it wasnt able to push gas up the metal line to the external pump.. it was just kind of free wheeling in there. Explains the cycling sound the external pump was making. (the old one died and I just put a new external pump/filter in).
But you could hear it cycle up an down (speed).
Now I think I will use the other suggestions.. but after the fact. Now that it
is on my bench I will heat up the return line and remove it from the metal line and cut off 3/4" or so where it is deformed from being on the metal line. I plan on
installing a 4" or so piece of fuel line on the end of this hose (hose clamped) so when I reinstall the works into the tank I dont have to fight the hose also. Doing
all this on the bench is easier than doing it while it was in the hole!
progress pics are being taken and will be posted along with the others I have up so far. This isnt as bad as I thought it might be and with the pics to look at hopefully it will make it easier for the next person to tackle this job.
Many thanks to everyone who has taken the time to give advice!
stay tuned ;-)
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vw bus site - http://www.geocities.com/vw_bus_74/index.html

I'm with Bob on this one. You got it out pretty easily. Getting it back in is just as easy or easier. Certainly less work, and less likely to leak, than splicing new hose in there. If all goes well you shouldn't have to do this again for another 100K.

Marty

My opinion is that if you're going to cut the plastic return line, just replace the whole thing with good FI hose. If I read your post correctly, you're planning on adding a short piece of fuel line outside the tank and are going to clamp it to the plastic line? Personally, I don't think it would be a good idea to clamp 2 hoses together like that. Also, you'll find that the barbs on the stub coming out for the return line do not facilitate easy removal of any hose, plastic or not. Once you put a hose on there, it's not coming off without a knife. My suggestion is to leave the return line alone. The "deformed" part where it goes over the barbs is perfectly normal.

Bob
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82 intercooled turbowagon 235K

Pump is out feeder hose replaced and the works reinstalled without any
modification to the return line. I was worried that it might get kinked
and damaged on the way out but it seems to have held up.
Car doesnt idles better and doesnt stall.. still a bit of search going
on so I am going to just install a new coil and plugs... check the dizzy cap..
the basic stuff.
I agree that if you dont have to modify the original you are better off..
but having worked on old cars for a while I like to have back up plans. ;-)

Thanks tho for the input from you both!
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vw bus site - http://www.geocities.com/vw_bus_74/index.html

Hi Axel,

I've got the same job in front of me for this weekend. I've been listening to a groaning, buzzing main pump and fuel lines for about a year, but only recently experienced some fuel starvation symptoms.

Anyway, I'm going to try the 700/900 higher capacity pre-pump upgrade (the one where you need to shorten the feed tube). I even sprung $24 for the IPD "bung nut" removal tool...

Question for you: Any advice on how you got the plastic return line off? Other than just yank on it?

Thanks in advance!

Greg
schnorr@ieee.org

" Question for you: Any advice on how you got the plastic return line off? Other than just yank on it?"

Assuming you just want to remove the fuelpump/sender assembly:
I disconnected the return line at the coupler. Above the rear axel kinda.
Hose it with WD. Clean it and disconnect.
Then after several reccomendations from this group I....
Pulled the line straight back and to the left untill it was on top of the tank.
Grabbed the end and pulled it to the right.. crossing over the supply line.
Pulled the end up and through the access hole in the deck.
The outer sheath split when I did this.. it seems to be just a insulation layer
and isnt really a intergral part of the line so doesnt pose a leak hazard.
I had the bung nut broke loose but still holding the plate down. I wouldnt want
to work on loosening it with the hose in the way! I hosed it with WD-40 after brushing dirt an crud out of the acces cap then wiped the WD/crud mix up again then hosed it again.. let it sit overnight to allow the WD to soften up the crud that was locking the bung nut in place.
So you dont have to take the hose off to get it out.. it you want to after pulling the assembly.. I am told that a heat gun will soften the hose up and you can remove it from the line... however I got it reinstalled without having to do this.
hope this helps!
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vw bus site - http://www.geocities.com/vw_bus_74/index.html