Beanbag, did you test the circuit for continuity ? Put the pointy end of the test light into the connector (use a test lite that looks like a screw driver with a wire coming out the end,and make sure it is not the type that has a battery inside,ok?) Run the wire end of your tester to ground and have someone crank the engine. If the light, lights, then your voltage supply to the cold start valve is good. (Sorry, forgot to mention that the conn. has two wires, one goes to grnd. the other comes from the ignition switch.. the 12 v supply) Stick it into the "hot" side and turn the key to crank position to test. Next, test for a good grnd. on the other terminal. You can do this with and ohm meter. Stick one meter lead into the connector and the other to a known good ground.
Next you need to check for cold start valve (CSV) operation. You need two short pieces of wire and of course your battery. You can do two tests if you like. First test is to simply conn. a grnd. wire from neg. to the CSV and a + wire to the other terminal. Listen for a small "click" when you make and break the electrical conn. The second test, is to apply the Pos. and Neg. wires to the CSV with it connected to the fuel hose with the system up to fuel pressure. (I am making a big assumtion here, that your system is capable of pressurizing... ) When you apply 12V to the CSV, which you have in a metal can or jar and you are NOT SMOKING... you will see it spray out the end, hopefully.
If your tests where positive for the wires and CSV, but still no fuel spray, then you need to listen for the fuel pump running for a short period of time when you turn on the key, have you done this ?? Let us know, Tom in Oregon