I am looking at two "equivalent" cars one is a 740 turbo wagon the other is a 740 gle (2.3l 16valve dohc) wagon. Both are in about the same shape with similar milage. Power wise they seem similar enough to not matter much to me. Which motor would probably require less maintenance in the long term?

Thanks

Steve

remember that having a turbo replaced by a shop is a $1000-$1500 hit too...

having said that i would worry much more abotuthe history of the two cars ..a badly maintained turbo may well be a worse buy than a scrupiously maintained and lightly drive n 16 valve....remember turbo's do tend to get drive n quite hard...

Go for the turbo, much more reliable and easy to maintain. Timing belt is hardly an issue since the motor is non interference. Also, if you can't do it yourself a tbelt can be changed for $200 Canadian ;)

Thanks for all the input. I think I'll go with the turbo.

I have a 16v. Don't like it, wish I bought a turbo. Tbelt is the major issue. Replacement requires a special volvo tensioning tool that is essentially unavailable to diy'ers. Parts are much less common and more expensive. Everyone knows volvo turbo's. My mech. has never seen another 16v.

Just my 2 cents

- Nate

The 16v and turbo are just two completely different in nature... The turbo has a nice (flatter) torque curve, and the easy ability to add more power... while the 16v has this high-rpm peaky nautre which is right in it's home at 4000-6000 RPM... (and the AW72L keeps it there)... the 16v maintenance schedule seems to be kept by a 21 Jewel Swiss watch though... you better do it, or else you'll pay for it in the end... However, similar things can happen with the turbo (especially with a turbo failure)... neither is really "better" just different... I like my 16v, despite it's issues...

on the other hand, the 16V turbo is quite the monster

Cliff Scott
89 740 16v <-pending valve replacement

arnt we all geting a little paranoid, i mean most cars are interference engines and 16 valves etc...

my mechanics have kept cars of this type running for me to astronomical milages...they perform freequent oil changes and preventative maintenance (which involves changing all timing belts at 1/2 the manufactures recomended)...

Well the 16v power is nice compared to the n/a b230. But my 16v sounds really scary above 4k and I don't like to rev it much past that. Last time it shifted at 5500rpms the transission slipped real bad and I turned white with thought of a volvo tranny rebuild. I think that a volvo is kindof an 'exotic' car (that's what everyone at autozone says). I bought a wierd, somewhat unreliable, 'exotic' car. I'm thinking of selling it (see post a few pages above this one). I'm still afraid of the tbelt job even after my post a week or so ago about the tensioning thing. I still don't feel confident and I REALLY don't want to give someone $700 to do it.

BTW I saw that 16v turbo page, there are some beautiful engines there. One radically modified 16v made 700hp!

thanks - Nate

hmm... exotic?? that's a new one.... more like a pain in the rear to find parts for if you're not shopping from a volvo place (like FCP Groton).... although, i've always found the parts I've needed for mine... Although, I do have to agree, I searched at Autozone (I work there) and you really have to look hard to find some parts for the 16v through their offerings of brands and parts... That's strange that your 16v is not running well above 4000... Mine promptly reaches 4000, soars to 6000, shifts to 2nd and usually leaves a little tire on the ground in doing so (gotta be careful in the slick weather)... and after the shift is at 4000 rpm if i continue to accelerate and continues on... aside from the tensioning of the timng belt, the belt itself is a fairly easy job.... Oh, and looking through some service info, i did find out that the Volvo timing belt tool is calibrated to read in Nm (Newton-Metres)

Oh, and if you're having a higher-RPM vibration, it's possible that your balance shafts have been disconnected, or could be off a notch... that will induce vibration into the engine for sure!

Oh, and don't forget that oil pump bolt (M10x1.50 thread)

Cliff Scott
89 740 16v... <-pending valve replacement

I keep going back and forth on the keep/sell issue. Maybe I should quit complaining and just do my maintenance. Do you think it is practical for me to put the tbelt and balance shaft belts on, 'finger tension' them and gently drive it to the dealer 3 miles away and have them tension it? Is that safe? I'm, maybe even excessively (sp?) paranoid about tbelt failure. I know for sure that my balance belt is there. I don't know if it's timed right and everything.
BTW I test drove a 88 745 b230 5spd 110k just to see if I would like it.
Departing thoughts: IT WAS HORRIBLY UNDERPOWERED! I don't think I could stand driving something that slow. It seemed reliable, well maintained and bulletproof. Looked good though; nice shade of blue.


Thanks - Nate

Ok, Honestly, with the way they make the timing belt system, it is simple... you just line up the notch on the pulleys with the white marks on the new belts.... as for tensioning...If you really want you can have a dealer do it (do you really think the dealer has this tool anyways?)... do you have the manual tensioner or the auto? if you have the auto it's all taken care of for ya!... I think changing that oil pump bolt is more of a problem than tensioning the belt perfectly anyways... I would've changed my bolt, and I had purchased a new one, but the person who told me the size, told me the wrong thread pitch, and thus I had to put the old bolt back in (this probably made it even worse!)... after that, i just kinda forgot about it..... oops! (it's a M10x1.50 by the way)

Cliff Scott
89 740 16v <-valves out, just need to order the new ones

Stick with the turbo.
--
MD

The B234 16V motor is a beautiful, fragile creature. They have a weak timing belt design. Should it ever break, you're looking at a $2000 (yes, two thousand dollars!) repair bill. The normal belt service also costs at least double what the service costs for an 8-valve motor. If a belt does break in an 8-valve car, it only costs about $200 (plus the tow). About the same price as having the belt replaced on schedule.

As they age, the 16V leaks oil from the 2-piece head and from the cam seals, and that causes premature timing belt failure. Sadly these will never be a reliable car for 200K+ as the regular 740/GL/Turbo 8-valve cars are.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 744GLE, 91 244: 808K total

Trouble with the GLE is the potential for it to eat itself if the timing belt goes south. From what I have read here, it MUST be replaces every 30K miles. Can't say how hard it is, but it looks scary. Trouble with the turbo is usually the turbo. Engine is less of a maintenance headache, very forgiving, and there seems to be a lot more info here for repairing the 8 valve as opposed to the 16 valve.

Just my $0.02.
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Regards,

David
1991 744 NA 140+K Miles

Go with the turbo.

According to the FAQ sections and the forum archives. It appears that the 16 valve motor has "issues" and requires a lot more maintenance.
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1985 740GLE