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What you saw is the classic symptom of failure of the wiring harness the runs under the front of the engine.
There are three wire in there. The location of the harness is frought with heat, cold, oil, road crud, etc.
The Big fat red wire seldom goes bad. It carries the chagring current to the battery via the starter.
The thin red wire and the thin black wire loose their insulation. If the black one grounds, you get the oil light.
When the thin red wire grounds you get the other waring lights. It is grounded whenever the alternator is not charging, as when the key in in Position II and the engine is stopped. When the alternator spins, the ground is lost and the lights go out.
It is that same wire that provides exciter voltage to the alternator rotor. If the waring light is on while the engine is running, the wire is grounded and the alternator is not charging.
The quickes fix is to put in a shoo-fly (railroad term) around the bad wire. Run it from the spade lug connection on the alternator to the red wire inside the gray connector on the firewall. Route it along the RF fender and across the firewall.
At the connector end, you can open the connector and see how all the terminals fit in. Clip off the red one and solder it onto your shoo-fly wire.
If you are unable to tell which is the red, it's in cell #3. The cells on that side are Black (#1), Yellow (#2), Red (#3), and open (#4). On the second side of the eight cells are Blue-Yellow (#5, across from #1), and the others are open.
At the same time you may want to do the same shoo-fly around for the oil pressure sender light, too.
When it's done, you'll have the fat red wire in it's original location, and the other two running the new route. The old thin red and thin black wires will be connected to nothing at both their ends.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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