I am from the UK and have just found this forum, and wonder if anyone can help me?!

I want to change the cam belt on my 960 3.0 24v auto saloon - not because it is looking worn, but because I cannot remember when it was last done! My Volvo dealer wants £170 ($270) for the labour alone (parts extra!) Looking at it, it doesn't look too complicated and I am a competent mechanic, but don't have a workshop manual.

Is the job as straightforward as it looks, or are there any pitfalls for the unwary?

Any help much appreciated!

Some have suggested replacing the water pump depending on the mileage when you do this change. I changed my belt at 93K not knowing the history and added the new tensioner. The FAQs provide a nice detailed process. I plan to replace the water pump next time and am hoping for the best during the interval. I neglected to relube the pulleys (more hope).
--
89 244; 97 964

While I have not done this, several BBsters have, and consider it fairly straightforward. Clearly you have to pay very close attention to the timing teeth. One tooth off, and it may not ruin the engine, but two will.
Also depending on your mileage, you might consider changing out the tensioner with the belt. This eliminates the problem of securing the tensioner before belt repacement and also ensures that you havea fully functioning tensioner. If it binds, it's the same effect as a broken belt. Something to consider.
--
John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 92K; 92 965 @ 106K

I did this on my '95 960 recently. Pretty simple really. Definitely not 710 pounds of labour involved.

The one thing to be careful about is the hydraulic tensioner. After removal, it must be compressed and locked (a nail will do) before reinstallation and installation of the new belt. It can be compressed i a large bench vice, but proceed very slowly. Going too fast can burst a seal. I went by feel. Tighten the vise until resistance builds up, wait about 30 seconds, then tighten a little further. The whole process will take 5 or 10 minutes.

I took a close look at the idler pulley and tensioner pulley. They seemed to be running low on lubricant, so I removed them, popped off the dust shield, cleaned out the old lubricant the best I could and relubricated them. This is not best shop practice, but it is quick and easy. As long as you are careful not to introduce any contamination the bearing should continue to operate satisfactorily. Proceed at your own risk.
--
'61 122s B16, '67 122s B18, '76 245 B21F, '81 245 B23E, '90 745 B234, '95 960 B6304 (not counting parts cars)

Check features- 700/900 Q&A.