Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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Project 145 update... 140-160 1970

Y'alls probably don't want to read through this, but... I promised an update, so here it is....

you might remember it started with the "mystery engine" followed by the transmission parts and rebuild, and other minor stuff... Car in question came into my life as an almost free (offered to me for free, I insisted the owner let me give him $100) '70 145 with worn engine, and auto box. 117k original miles with no rust or dents. "Jan" is her name...for a January 1970 build date.

The day after Thanksgiving, I started into it. Got the old engine/transmission out by noon, had the new "hot rod" mystery engine with M41 (and new reverse gear) roughly in my 4 that afternoon. A week or so thereafter I had a clutch pedal and cable hooked up. The Saturday after that, I tore into the rear end... which is to say, I swapped it for another I had which has limited slip. That all went fine, and I put the biggie driveshaft in.

Following that, it was a bunch of little stuff. Linkages, carb stuff, gear shift stuff, wiring (reverse lockout elimination) stuff. I don't like to "test" progress without the final bolt being turned... So, after I got the hood back on and the floormat back in place, I stuck a battery in 'er. Of course, I had the coil unplugged 'till I got oil pressure.

As soon as I knew i had oil pressure, I hooked up the coil, and tried to start it. Nothing. Would crank and crank, but no sign of burning gas. Plenty of gas and spark though. Timing. Couldn't figure it out, so I pulled the first spark plug to find TDC. Moved the plug wires around and twisted teh distributor. Got a git then. From there, it started right up. Problem then was that it would knock and ping just revving the motor. Scared me. But, some more timing issues and that was solved. On the road.

I've been driving the car exclusively now for a couple weeks, and although many things still need a good sorting, I have to say I'm quite pleased.

The mystery engine pulls the wagon as strongly if not stronger than does the B30 in my 164. This thing is quick indeed. Admittedly, it doesn't have the low end torque of the 6 banger, but from perhaps 2500rpm and up, it sings. And...I still havn't fine tuned the carbs, nor the ignition timing for that matter. That will be the next step. I've never been sold on headers, but today the fella at ipd said tehy only had one set left, so I had to buy it. I'll be upgrading to a 2" exhaust when I install the header....

The transmission I had apart is working great. Shifts perfectly, no abnormal noises of any kind. Overdrive still works great. Thanks again to y'alls for the help and ispiration with that part of the project.

The rear end is as good as I remember it. I did change the fluid in there and add some ltd slip additive. The wagon with bald rear tires goes right up icy hills that required chains with the 164 which has good snow tires. I'd say its OK.

All in all, I have a good feeling about this car. I've still got a vaccuum leak to find. and some new jets and float valves for the carbs. And the exhaust. Then it should run right. I've also got a set of IPD swaybars to be installed perhaps next week. And, for the rest of the winter, I've got a set of 5 new studded snow tires on order. Should be as good or better than 4wd when I get them on... For summer, I'll go with the set of 240 turbo wheels I've got.

As soon as its running and driving just right, I'll be taking her in for paint (original color of course. dark red). Which will probably not happen until spring or so...

Of course, it is a wagon...and I intend to us it as such. My brother's Model A Ford had its rear end lock up this past Monday night about 30 miles away. We put a board on the roof of my car, muscled a new model A rear up on that, and drove to the Ford and changed it on the spot. Pushed my roof in pretty good. Popped out almost entirely on its own, but not quite. Good thing the wagon came with a NOS roof rack to hide the very minor of dents. That'll be installed after paint.

Anyhow, thanks again to all who have helped with this project. I'll get some pics posted as soon as possible, and more after I get her painted. This is the car for which I've been accumulating parts for about 6 years. I knew right away when I saw this red wagon sitting under a pile of dust last fall that it was the body to use. Project 145 is finally coming together... If anyone has any specific questions or comments, feel free to drop me a line.

-Matt









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Project 145 update... 140-160 1970

I would be careful with the IPD header, I bought one about a year ago and after a front end alignment, the unit would hit the top of the A-arm at the back bushing. Grassroots Motorsports had the same trouble on their 122 when they had it set for 2 degrees negative camber. Unlike them though, I can't afford to replace it with one of John Parkers 4-2-1 units, so ground down where it was hitting on the A-arm and shimmed up the engine with washers at the engine mounts. It is satisfactory now. Although one disadvantage to shimming the engine up is that it reduced the space between the bellhousing and trans tunnel, making it hard to get to the nut on the upper starter bolt when had to replace the starter a couple weeks ago.

See the last paragraph of the update for August 21st for their comment on the header at http://grmotorsports.com/volvo122s.html

Best of luck,
Brad M. 1970 144s








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Project 145 update... 140-160 1970

Thanks for the input there... Question though:

Is your experience with the header fouling the upper A-arm with your 140? I sorta figured there would be a bit more room to work with. I had a similar (exactly the same) issue with my 1800. I installed a used ipd header I had, and it was in conflict with the A-arm.

To be honest, I swore never again to bother with the headers for that reason. But here I go again. I think there is plenty of room though in the 140s.

My solution with the 1800 was to... A) grind the upper A-arm down a bit, and B) install a ipd 3rd motor mount which pushed the engine over another 1/8" or so.

That worked great, and has been holding strong for over 250k.

Either way, if it doesn't fit...I'll make it fit. THats why God ivented power tools.

-Matt








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Project 145 update... 140-160 1970

Yeah, the bottom of the header was hitting the top of the lower a-arm. I'm sure there is a way to fabricate a header so it does not hit. greater problems have been solved. Brad M.








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Project 145 update... 140-160 1970

Thanks for the input there... Question though:

Is your experience with the header fouling the upper A-arm with your 140? I sorta figured there would be a bit more room to work with. I had a similar (exactly the same) issue with my 1800. I installed a used ipd header I had, and it was in conflict with the A-arm.

To be honest, I swore never again to bother with the headers for that reason. But here I go again. I think there is plenty of room though in the 140s.

My solution with the 1800 was to... A) grind the upper A-arm down a bit, and B) install a ipd 3rd motor mount which pushed the engine over another 1/8" or so.

That worked great, and has been holding strong for over 250k.

Either way, if it doesn't fit...I'll make it fit. THats why God ivented power tools.

-Matt








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Project 145 update... 140-160 1970

One thing that GRM did not follow up on was the new header. I emailed them about this and their response was "Well, the header doesn't hit the front of the A-arm, but the new one hits the back." I think grinding or shimming are your only options. Or beating on the offending tube.
--
Justin 70 1800E, 66 122E, 71 145S
Read vclassics!








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Project 145 update... 140-160 1970

Hey Matt!
Sounds great! Maybe someday I'll get flush enough to take a trip to Colorado
and see you and it. Any clews what cam it has?

And if you find a lim slip that'll fit a 122 wagon, let me know!
--
George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma








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Project 145 update... 140-160 1970

I'm pretty sure its the R-sport spec cam. Not sure yet. I'm gonna do a final valve adjust soon. I'll measure the lift then.

Ltd slip for a 122 wagon, eh? You gotta understand that the rear end I used that was sitting in my back yard is about 80% of the reason I went with a 140 wagon rather than a 122 wagon. If I find a limited slip rear for a 122, I'm gonna bury it and keep it for me me me :-) But I will let you know if I find one.

Cheers....








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Project 145 update... 140-160 1970

Congratulations! Happy New Year.


Regards

Pete







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